Typee

CHAPTER I.

The Sea—Longings for Shore—A Land-sick Ship—Destination of the
Voyagers—The Marquesas—Adventure of a Missionary’s Wife among
the Savages—Characteristic Anecdote of the Queen of Nukuheva.

Six months at sea! Yes, reader, as I live, six months out of
sight of land; cruising after the sperm-whale beneath the
scorching sun of the Line, and tossed on the billows of the wide-
rolling Pacific—the sky above, the sea around, and nothing else!
Weeks and weeks ago our fresh provisions were all exhausted.
There is not a sweet potatoe left; not a single yam. Those
glorious bunches of banannas which once decorated our stern
and quarter-deck have, alas, disappeared! and the delicious
oranges which hung suspended from our tops and stays—they,
too, are gone! Yes, they are all departed, and there is nothing
left us but salt-horse and sea-biscuit. Oh! ye state-room sailors,
who make so much ado about a fourteen-days’ passage across the
Atlantic; who so pathetically relate the privations and hardships
of the sea, where, after a day of breakfasting, lunching, dining
off five courses, chatting, playing whist, and drinking champaign-
punch, it was your hard lot to be shut up in little cabinets of
mahogany and maple, and sleep for ten hours, with nothing to
disturb you but “those good-for-nothing tars, shouting and
tramping over head,”—what would ye say to our six months out
of sight of land?

Oh! for a refreshing glimpse of one blade of grass—for a snuff
at the fragrance of a handful of the loamy earth! Is there
nothing fresh around us? Is there no green thing to be seen?
Yes, the inside of our bulwarks is painted green; but what a

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vile and sickly hue it is, as if nothing bearing even the semblance
of verdure could flourish this weary way from land. Even the
bark that once clung to the wood we use for fuel has been
gnawed off and devoured by the captain’s pig; and so long ago,
too, that the pig himself has in turn been devoured.

There is but one solitary tenant in the chicken-coop, once a
gay and dapper young cock, bearing him so bravely among the
coy hens. But look at him now; there he stands, moping all
the day long on that everlasting one leg of his. He turns with
disgust from the mouldy corn before him, and the brackish water
in his little trough. He mourns no doubt his lost companions,
literally snatched from him one by one, and never seen again.
But his days of mourning will be few; for Mungo, our black
cook, told me yesterday that the word had at last gone forth,
and poor Pedro’s fate was sealed. His attenuated body will be
laid out upon the captain’s table next Sunday, and long before
night will be buried with all the usual ceremonies beneath that
worthy individual’s vest. Who would believe that there could
be any one so cruel as to long for the decapitation of the luck-
less Pedro; yet the sailors pray every minute, selfish fellows,
that the miserable fowl may be brought to his end. They say
the captain will never point the ship for the land so long as he
has in anticipation a mess of fresh meat. This unhappy bird can
alone furnish it; and when he is once devoured, the captain will
come to his senses. I wish thee no harm, Peter; but as thou art
doomed, sooner or later, to meet the fate of all thy race; and if
putting a period to thy existence is to be the signal for our deli-
verance, why—truth to speak—I wish thy throat cut this very
moment; for, oh! how I wish to see the living earth again!
The old ship herself longs to look out upon the land from her
hawse-holes once more, and Jack Lewis said right the other day
when the captain found fault with his steering.

“Why, d’ye see, Captain Vangs,” says bold Jack, “I’m as
good a helmsman as ever put hand to spoke; but none of us can
steer the old lady now. We can’t keep her full and bye, sir:
watch her ever so close, she will fall off; and then, sir, when I
put the helm down so gently, and try like to coax her to the
work, she won’t take it kindly, but will fall round off again;
and it’s all because she knows the land is under the lee, sir, and

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she wont go any more to windward.” Aye, and why should she,
Jack? didn’t every one of her stout timbers grow on shore, and
hasn’t she sensibilities as well as we?

Poor old ship! Her very looks denote her desires: how de-
plorably she appears! The paint on her sides, burnt up by the
scorching sun, is puffed out and cracked. See the weeds she
trails along with her, and what an unsightly bunch of those
horrid barnacles has formed about her stern-piece; and every
time she rises on a sea, she shows her copper torn away, or
hanging in jagged strips.

Poor old ship! I say again: for six months she has been roll-
ing and pitching about, never for one moment at rest. But
courage, old lass, I hope to see thee soon within a biscuit’s toss
of the merry land, riding snugly at anchor in some green cove,
and sheltered from the boisterous winds.

* * * * *

“Hurra, my lads! It’s a settled thing; next week we shape
our course to the Marquesas!” The Marquesas! What strange
visions of outlandish things does the very name spirit up!
Naked houris—cannibal banquets—groves of cocoa-nut—coral
reefs — tatooed chiefs — and bamboo temples; sunny valleys
planted with bread-fruit-trees—carved canoes dancing on the
flashing blue waters—savage woodlands guarded by horrible
idols— heathenish rites and human sacrifices.

Such were the strangely jumbled anticipations that haunted
me during our passage from the cruising ground. I felt an irre-
sistible curiosity to see those islands which the olden voyagers
had so glowingly described.

The group for which we were now steering (although among
the earliest of European discoveries in the South Seas, having
been first visited in the year 1595) still continues to be tenanted
by beings as strange and barbarous as ever. The missionaries,
sent on a heavenly errand, had sailed by their lovely shores, and
had abandoned them to their idols of wood and stone. How in-
teresting the circumstances under which they were discovered!
In the watery path of Mendanna, cruising in quest of some
region of gold, these isles had sprung up like a scene of enchant-
ment, and for a moment the Spaniard believed his bright dream
was realised. In honour of the Marquess de Mendoza, then

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viceroy of Peru—under whose auspices the navigator sailed—
he bestowed upon them the name which denoted the rank of his
patron, and gave to the world on his return a vague and magni-
ficent account of their beauty. But these islands, undisturbed
for years, relapsed into their previous obscurity; and it is only
recently that anything has been known concerning them. Once
in the course of a half century, to be sure, some adventurous
rover would break in upon their peaceful repose, and, astonished
at the unusual scene, would be almost tempted to claim the merit
of a new discovery.

Of this interesting group, but little account has ever been
given, if we except the slight mention made of them in the
sketches of South-Sea voyages. Cook, in his repeated circum-
navigations of the globe, barely touched at their shores; and all
that we know about them is from a few general narratives.
Among these, there are two that claim particular notice.
Porter’s ‘Journal of the Cruise of the U. S. frigate Essex, in the
Pacific, during the late War,’ is said to contain some interesting
particulars concerning the islanders. This is a work, however,
which I have never happened to meet with; and Stewart, the
chaplain of the American sloop of war Vincennes, has likewise
devoted a portion of his book, entitled ‘A Visit to the South
Seas,’ to the same subject.

Within the last few years American and English vessels
engaged in the extensive whale fisheries of the Pacific have
occasionally, when short of provisions, put into the commodious
harbour which there is in one of the islands; but a fear of the
natives, founded on a recollection of the dreadful fate which
many white men have received at their hands, has deterred their
crews from intermixing with the population sufficiently to gain
any insight into their peculiar customs and manners.

The Protestant Missions appear to have despaired of reclaim-
ing these islands from heathenism. The usage they have in
every case received from the natives has been such as to intimi-
date the boldest of their number. Ellis, in his ‘Polynesian
Researches,’ gives some interesting accounts of the abortive
attempts made by the Tahiti Mission to establish a branch
Mission upon certain islands of the group. A short time before
my visit to the Marquesas, a somewhat amusing incident took

[ 5 ]

place in connection with these efforts, which I cannot avoid
relating.

An intrepid missionary, undaunted by the ill-success that had
attended all previous endeavours to conciliate the savages, and
believing much in the efficacy of female influence, introduced
among them his young and beautiful wife, the first white woman
who had ever visited their shores. The islanders at first gazed
in mute admiration at so unusual a prodigy, and seemed inclined
to regard it as some new divinity. But after a short time, be-
coming familiar with its charming aspect, and jealous of the
folds which encircled its form, they sought to pierce the sacred
veil of calico in which it was enshrined, and in the gratification
of their curiosity so far overstepped the limits of good breeding,
as deeply to offend the lady’s sense of decorum. Her sex once
ascertained, their idolatry was changed into contempt; and there
was no end to the contumely showered upon her by the savages,
who were exasperated at the deception which they conceived
had been practised upon them. To the horror of her affec-
tionate spouse, she was stripped of her garments, and given to
understand that she could no longer carry on her deceits with
impunity. The gentle dame was not sufficiently evangelised to
endure this, and, fearful of further improprieties, she forced her
husband to relinquish his undertaking, and together they re-
turned to Tahiti.

Not thus shy of exhibiting her charms was the Island Queen
herself, the beauteous wife of Mowanna, the king of Nukuheva.
Between two and three years after the adventures recorded in
this volume, I chanced, while aboard of a man-of-war, to touch
at these islands. The French had then held possession of the
Marquesas some time, and already prided themselves upon the
beneficial effects of their jurisdiction, as discernible in the de-
portment of the natives. To be sure, in one of their efforts at
reform they had slaughtered about a hundred and fifty of them
at Whitihoo—but let that pass. At the time I mention, the
French squadron was rendezvousing in the bay of Nukuheva,
and during an interview between one of their captains and our
worthy Commodore, it was suggested by the former, that we, as
the flag-ship of the American squadron, should receive, in state,
a visit from the royal pair. The French officer likewise repre-

[ 6 ]

sented, with evident satisfaction, that under their tuition the
king and queen had imbibed proper notions of their elevated
station, and on all ceremonious occasions conducted themselves
with suitable dignity. Accordingly, preparations were made to
give their majesties a reception on board in a style corresponding
with their rank.

One bright afternoon, a gig, gaily bedizened with streamers,
was observed to shove off from the side of one of the French
frigates, and pull directly for our gangway. In the stern sheets
reclined Mowanna and his consort. As they approached, we
paid them all the honours due to royalty;—manning our yards,
firing a salute, and making a prodigious hubbub.

They ascended the accommodation ladder, were greeted by
the Commodore, hat in hand, and passing along the quarter-
deck, the marine guard presented arms, while the band struck
up ‘The king of the Cannibal Islands.’ So far all went well.
The French officers grimaced and smiled in exceedingly high
spirits, wonderfully pleased with the discreet manner in which
these distinguished personages behaved themselves.

Their appearance was certainly calculated to produce an
effect. His majesty was arrayed in a magnificent military uni-
form, stiff with gold lace and embroidery, while his shaven
crown was concealed by a huge chapeau bras, waving with os-
trich plumes. There was one slight blemish, however, in his
appearance. A broad patch of tatooing stretched completely
across his face, in a line with his eyes, making him look as if he
wore a huge pair of goggles; and royalty in goggles suggested
some ludicrous ideas. But it was in the adornment of the fair
person of his dark-complexioned spouse that the tailors of the
fleet had evinced the gaiety of their national taste. She was
habited in a gaudy tissue of scarlet cloth, trimmed with yellow
silk, which, descending a little below the knees, exposed to view
her bare legs, embellished with spiral tatooing, and somewhat
resembling two miniature Trajan’s columns. Upon her head
was a fanciful turban of purple velvet, figured with silver sprigs,
and surmounted by a tuft of variegated feathers.

The ship’s company crowding into the gangway to view the
sight, soon arrested her majesty’s attention. She singled out
from their number an old salt, whose bare arms and feet, and

[ 7 ]

exposed breast were covered with as many inscriptions in India
ink as the lid of an Egyptian sarcophagus. Notwithstanding
all the sly hints and remonstrances of the French officers, she
immediately approached the man, and pulling further open the
bosom of his duck frock, and rolling up the leg of his wide trow-
sers, she gazed with admiration at the bright blue and vermilion
pricking, thus disclosed to view. She hung over the fellow,
caressing him, and expressing her delight in a variety of wild
exclamations and gestures. The embarrassment of the polite
Gauls at such an unlooked-for occurrence may be easily ima-
gined; but picture their consternation, when all at once the
royal lady, eager to display the hieroglyphics on her own sweet
form, bent forward for a moment, and turning sharply round,
threw up the skirts of her mantle, and revealed a sight from
which the aghast Frenchmen retreated precipitately, and tum-
bling into their boat, fled the scene of so shocking a catastrophe.

[ 8 ]

CHAPTER II.

Passage from the Cruising Ground to the Marquesas—Sleepy times abroad
Ship—South Sea Scenery—Land ho!—The French Squadron discovered
at Anchor in the Bay of Nukuheva—Strange Pilot—Escort of Canoes—A
Flotilla of Cocoa-nuts—Swimming Visitors—The Dolly boarded by them
—State of affairs that ensue.

I can never forget the eighteen or twenty days during which
the light trade-winds were silently sweeping us towards the
islands. In pursuit of the sperm whale, we had been cruizing
on the line some twenty degrees to the westward of the Galli-
pagos; and all that we had to do, when our course was deter-
mined on, was to square in the yards and keep the vessel before
the breeze, and then the good ship and the steady gale did the
rest between them. The man at the wheel never vexed the old
lady with any superfluous steering, but comfortably adjusting his
limbs at the tiller, would doze away by the hour. True to her
work, the Dolly headed to her course, and like one of those cha-
racters who always do best when let alone, she jogged on her way
like a veteran old sea-pacer as she was.

What a delightful, lazy, languid time we had whilst we were
thus gliding along! There was nothing to be done; a circum-
stance that happily suited our disinclination to do anything. We
abandoned the fore-peak altogether, and spreading an awning
over the forecastle, slept, ate, and lounged under it the live-long
day. Every one seemed to be under the influence of some nar-
cotic. Even the officers aft, whose duty required them never to
be seated while keeping a deck watch, vainly endeavoured to
keep on their pins; and were obliged invariably to compromise
the matter by leaning up against the bulwarks, and gazing ab-
stractedly over the side. Reading was out of the question; take
a book in your hand, and you were asleep in an instant.

Although I could not avoid yielding in a great measure to the
general languor, still at times I contrived to shake off the spell,

[ 9 ]

and to appreciate the beauty of the scene around me. The sky
presented a clear expanse of the most delicate blue, except along
the skirts of the horizon, where you might see a thin drapery of
pale clouds which never varied their form or colour. The long,
measured, dirge-like swell of the Pacific came rolling along,
with its surface broken by little tiny waves, sparkling in the
sunshine. Every now and then a shoal of flying fish, scared
from the water under the bows, would leap into the air, and fall
the next moment like a shower of silver into the sea. Then you
would see the superb albicore, with his glittering sides, sailing
aloft, and often describing an arc in his descent, disappear on
the surface of the water. Far off, the lofty jet of the whale
might be seen, and nearer at hand the prowling shark, that
villainous footpad of the seas, would come skulking along, and,
at a wary distance, regard us with his evil eye. At times, some
shapeless monster of the deep, floating on the surface, would, as
we approached, sink slowly into the blue waters, and fade away
from the sight. But the most impressive feature of the scene
was the almost unbroken silence that reigned over sky and water.
Scarcely a sound could be heard but the occasional breathing of
the grampus, and the rippling at the cut-water.

As we drew nearer the land, I hailed with delight the ap-
pearance of innumerable sea-fowl. Screaming and whirling in
spiral tracks, they would accompany the vessel, and at times
alight on our yards and stays. That piratical-looking fellow,
appropriately named the man-of-war’s hawk, with his blood-red
bill and raven plumage, would come sweeping round us in
gradually diminishing circles, till you could distinctly mark the
strange flashings of his eye; and then, as if satisfied with his
observation, would sail up into the air and disappear from the
view. Soon, other evidences of our vicinity to the land were
apparent, and it was not long before the glad announcement of
its being in sight was heard from aloft,—given with that pecu-
liar prolongation of sound that a sailor loves—“Land ho!”

The captain, darting on deck from the cabin, bawled lustily
for his spy-glass; the mate in still louder accents hailed the
mast-head with a tremendous “where-away?” The black cook
thrust his woolly head from the galley, and Boatswain, the dog,
leaped up between the knight-heads, and barked most furiously.

[ 10 ]

Land ho! Aye, there it was. A hardly perceptible blue
irregular outline, indicating the bold contour of the lofty
heights of Nukuheva.

This island, although generally called one of the Marquesas,
is by some navigators considered as forming one of a distinct
cluster, comprising the islands of Ruhooka, Ropo, and Nuku-
heva; upon which three the appellation of the Washington
Group has been bestowed. They form a triangle, and lie within
the parallels of 8° 38″ and 9° 32″ South latitude, and 139° 20′
and 140° 10′ West longitude from Greenwich. With how little
propriety they are to be regarded as forming a separate group
will be at once apparent, when it is considered that they lie in
the immediate vicinity of the other islands, that is to say, less
than a degree to the north-west of them; that their inhabitants
speak the Marquesan dialect, and that their laws, religion, and
general customs are identical. The only reason why they were
ever thus arbitrarily distinguished, may be attributed to the
singular fact, that their existence was altogether unknown to
the world until the year 1791, when they were discovered by
Captain Ingraham, of Boston, Massachusetts, nearly two centu-
ries after the discovery of the adjacent islands by the agent of
the Spanish Viceroy. Notwithstanding this, I shall follow the
example of most voyagers, and treat of them as forming part and
parcel of the Marquesas.

Nukuheva is the most important of these islands, being the
only one at which ships are much in the habit of touching, and
is celebrated as being the place where the adventurous Captain
Porter refitted his ships during the late war between England
and the United States, and whence he sallied out upon the large
whaling fleet then sailing under the enemy’s flag in the surround-
ing seas. This island is about twenty miles in length and nearly
as many in breadth. It has three good harbours on its coast;
the largest and best of which is called by the people living in its
vicinity ‘Tyohee,’ and by Captain Porter was denominated
Massachusetts Bay. Among the adverse tribes dwelling about
the shores of the other bays, and by all voyagers, it is generally
known by the name bestowed upon the island itself—Nukuheva.
Its inhabitants have become somewhat corrupted, owing to their
recent commerce with Europeans; but so far as regards their

[ 11 ]

peculiar customs and general mode of life, they retain their
original primitive character, remaining very nearly in the same
state of nature in which they were first beheld by white men.
The hostile clans, residing in the more remote sections of the
island, and very seldom holding any communication with fo-
reigners, are in every respect unchanged from their earliest
known condition.

In the bay of Nukuheva was the anchorage we desired to reach.
We had perceived the loom of the mountains about sunset; so
that after running all night with a very light breeze, we found
ourselves close in with the island the next morning: but as the bay
we sought lay on its farther side, we were obliged to sail some
distance along the shore, catching, as we proceeded, short glimpses
of blooming valleys, deep glens, waterfalls, and waving groves,
hidden here and there by projecting and rocky headlands, every
moment opening to the view some new and startling scene of
beauty.

Those who for the first time visit the South Seas, generally
are surprised at the appearance of the islands when beheld from
the sea. From the vague accounts we sometimes have of their
beauty, many people are apt to picture to themselves enamelled
and softly swelling plains, shaded over with delicious groves, and
watered by purling brooks, and the entire country but little
elevated above the surrounding ocean. The reality is very dif-
ferent; bold rock-bound coasts, with the surf beating high
against the lofty cliffs, and broken here and there into deep inlets,
which open to the view thickly-wooded valleys, separated by the
spurs of mountains clothed with tufted grass, and sweeping down
towards the sea from an elevated and furrowed interior, form the
principal features of these islands.

Towards noon we drew abreast the entrance to the harbour,
and at last we slowly swept by the intervening promontory, and
entered the bay of Nukuheva. No description can do justice to
its beauty; but that beauty was lost to me then, and I saw
nothing but the tri-coloured flag of France trailing over the stern
of six vessels, whose black hulls and bristling broadsides pro-
claimed their warlike character. There they were, floating in
that lovely bay, the green eminences of the shore looking down
so tranquilly upon them, as if rebuking the sternness of their

[ 12 ]

aspect. To my eye nothing could be more out of keeping than
the presence of these vessels; but we soon learnt what brought
them there. The whole group of islands had just been taken
possession of by Rear Admiral Du Petit Thouars, in the name of
the invincible French nation.

This item of information was imparted to us by a most extra-
ordinary individual, a genuine South-Sea vagabond, who came
alongside of us in a whale-boat as soon as we entered the bay,
and by the aid of some benevolent persons at the gangway was
assisted on board, for our visitor was in that interesting stage of
intoxication when a man is amiable and helpless. Although he
was utterly unable to stand erect or to navigate his body across
the deck, he still magnanimously proffered his services to pilot
the ship to a good and secure anchorage. Our captain, however,
rather distrusted his ability in this respect, and refused to recog-
nise his claim to the character he assumed; but our gentleman
was determined to play his part, for by dint of much scrambling
he succeeded in getting into the weather-quarter boat, where he
steadied himself by holding on to a shroud, and then commenced
issuing his commands with amazing volubility and very peculiar
gestures. Of course no one obeyed his orders; but as it was im-
possible to quiet him, we swept by the ships of the squadron with
this strange fellow performing his antics in full view of all the
French officers.

We afterwards learned that our eccentric friend had been a
lieutenant in the English navy; but having disgraced his flag by
some criminal conduct in one of the principal ports on the main,
he had deserted his ship, and spent many years wandering among
the islands of the Pacific, until accidentally being at Nukuheva
when the French took possession of the place, he had been ap-
pointed pilot of the harbour by the newly constituted authorities.

As we slowly advanced up the bay, numerous canoes pushed
off from the surrounding shores, and we were soon in the midst
of quite a flotilla of them, their savage occupants struggling to
get aboard of us, and jostling one another in their ineffectual
attempts. Occasionally the projecting out-riggers of their slight
shallops running foul of one another, would become entangled
beneath the water, threatening to capsize the canoes, when a
scene of confusion would ensue that baffles description. Such

[ 13 ]

strange outcries and passionate gesticulations I never certainly
heard or saw before. You would have thought the islanders
were on the point of flying at one another’s throats, whereas they
were only amicably engaged in disentangling their boats.

Scattered here and there among the canoes might be seen
numbers of cocoa nuts floating closely together in circular
groups, and bobbing up and down with every wave. By some
inexplicable means these cocoa nuts were all steadily approach-
ing towards the ship. As I leaned curiously over the side en-
deavouring to solve their mysterious movements, one mass far in
advance of the rest attracted my attention. In its centre was
something I could take for nothing else than a cocoa nut, but
which I certainly considered one of the most extraordinary spe-
cimens of the fruit I had ever seen. It kept twirling and dancing
about among the rest in the most singular manner, and as it drew
nearer I thought it bore a remarkable resemblance to the brown
shaven skull of one of the savages. Presently it betrayed a pair
of eyes, and soon I became aware that what I had supposed to
have been one of the fruit was nothing else than the head of an
islander, who had adopted this singular method of bringing his
produce to market. The cocoa nuts were all attached to one
another by strips of the husk, partly torn from the shell and
rudely fastened together. Their proprietor inserting his head
into the midst of them, impelled his necklace of cocoa nuts
through the water by striking out beneath the surface with his
feet.

I was somewhat astonished to perceive that among the number
of natives that surrounded us not a single female was to be seen.
At that time I was ignorant of the fact that by the operation of
the “taboo” the use of canoes in all parts of the island is rigor-
ously prohibited to the entire sex, for whom it is death even to
be seen entering one when hauled on shore; consequently, when-
ever a Marquesan lady voyages by water, she puts in requisition
the paddles of her own fair body.

We had approached within a mile and a half perhaps of the
foot of the bay, when some of the islanders, who by this time had
managed to scramble aboard of us at the risk of swamping their
canoes, directed our attention to a singular commotion in the
water ahead of the vessel. At first I imagined it to be produced

[ 14 ]

by a shoal of fish sporting on the surface, but our savage friends
assured us that it was caused by a shoal of “whinhenies” (young
girls), who in this manner were coming off from the shore to
welcome us. As they drew nearer, and I watched the rising and
sinking of their forms, and beheld the uplifted right arm bearing
above the water the girdle of tappa, and their long dark hair
trailing beside them as they swam, I almost fancied they could
be nothing else than so many mermaids:—and very like mer-
maids they behaved too.

We were still some distance from the beach, and under slow
headway, when we sailed right into the midst of these swimming
nymphs, and they boarded us at every quarter; many seizing
hold of the chain-plates and springing into the chains; others,
at the peril of being run over by the vessel in her course, catch-
ing at the bob-stays, and wreathing their slender forms about the
ropes, hung suspended in the air. All of them at length suc-
ceeded in getting up the ship’s side, where they clung dripping
with the brine and glowing from the bath, their jet-black tresses
streaming over their shoulders, and half enveloping their other-
wise naked forms. There they hung, sparkling with savage
vivacity, laughing gaily at one another, and chattering away with
infinite glee. Nor were they idle the while, for each one per-
formed the simple offices of the toilette for the other. Their
luxuriant locks, wound up and twisted into the smallest possible
compass, were freed from the briny element; the whole person
carefully dried, and from a little round shell that passed from
hand to hand, anointed with a fragrant oil: their adornments
were completed by passing a few loose folds of white tappa, in a
modest cincture, around the waist. Thus arrayed they no longer
hesitated, but flung themselves lightly over the bulwarks, and
were quickly frolicking about the decks. Many of them went
forward, perching upon the head-rails or running out upon the
bowsprit, while others seated themselves upon the taffrail, or re-
clined at full length upon the boats. What a sight for us
bachelor sailors! how avoid so dire a temptation? For who
could think of tumbling these artless creatures overboard, when
they had swam miles to welcome us?

Their appearance perfectly amazed me; their extreme youth,
the light clear brown of their complexions, their delicate fea-

[ 15 ]

tures, and inexpressibly graceful figures, their softly moulded
limbs, and free unstudied action, seemed as strange as beautiful.

The ‘Dolly’ was fairly captured; and never I will say was
vessel carried before by such a dashing and irresistible party of
boarders! The ship taken, we could not do otherwise than yield
ourselves prisoners, and for the whole period that she remained
in the bay, the ‘Dolly,’ as well as her crew, were completely in
the hands of the mermaids.

In the evening after we had come to an anchor the deck was
illuminated with lanterns, and this picturesque band of sylphs,
tricked out with flowers, and dressed in robes of variegated tappa,
got up a ball in great style. These females are passionately fond
of dancing, and in the wild grace and spirit of their style excel
everything that I have ever seen. The varied dances of the
Marquesan girls are beautiful in the extreme, but there is an
abandoned voluptuousness in their character which I dare not
attempt to describe.

Our ship was now wholly given up to every species of riot and
debauchery. Not the feeblest barrier was interposed between
the unholy passions of the crew and their unlimited gratification.
The grossest licentiousness and the most shameful inebriety pre-
vailed, with occasional and but short-lived interruptions, through
the whole period of her stay. Alas for the poor savages when
exposed to the influence of these polluting examples! Unso-
phisticated and confiding, they are easily led into every vice,
and humanity weeps over the ruin thus remorselessly inflicted
upon them by their European civilizers. Thrice happy are they
who, inhabiting some yet undiscovered island in the midst of the
ocean, have never been brought into contaminating contact with
the white man.

[ 16 ]

CHAPTER III.

Some Account of the late operations of the French at the Marquesas—
Prudent Conduct of the Admiral—Sensation produced by the Arrival of
the Strangers—The first Horse seen by the Islanders—Reflections—
Miserable Subterfuge of the French—Digression concerning Tahiti—
Seizure of the Island by the Admiral—Spirited Conduct of an English
Lady.

It was in the summer of 1842 that we arrived at the islands;
the French had then held possession of them for several weeks.
During this time they had visited some of the principal places
in the group, and had disembarked at various points about five
hundred troops. These were employed in constructing works of
defence, and otherwise providing against the attacks of the na-
tives, who at any moment might be expected to break out in
open hostility. The islanders looked upon the people who made
this cavalier appropriation of their shores with mingled feelings
of fear and detestation. They cordially hated them; but the
impulses of their resentment were neutralized by their dread of
the floating batteries, which lay with their fatal tubes ostenta-
tiously pointed, not at fortifications and redoubts, but at a hand-
ful of bamboo sheds, sheltered in a grove of cocoa-nuts! A
valiant warrior doubtless, but a prudent one too, was this same
Rear-Admiral Du Petit Thouars. Four heavy, double-banked
frigates and three corvettes to frighten a parcel of naked
heathen into subjection! Sixty-eight pounders to demolish huts
of cocoa-nut boughs, and Congreve rockets to set on fire a few
canoe sheds!

At Nukuheva, there were about one hundred soldiers ashore.
They were encamped in tents, constructed of the old sails and
spare spars of the squadron, within the limits of a redoubt
mounted with a few nine-pounders, and surrounded with a fosse.
Every other day, these troops were marched out in martial array,
to a level piece of ground in the vicinity, and there for hours

[ 17 ]

went through all sorts of military evolutions, surrounded by
flocks of the natives, who looked on with savage admiration at
the show, and as savage a hatred of the actors. A regiment of
the Old Guard, reviewed on a summer’s day in the Champs
Elysées, could not have made a more critically correct appear-
ance. The officers’ regimentals, resplendent with gold lace and
embroidery, as if purposely calculated to dazzle the islanders,
looked as if just unpacked from their Parisian cases.

The sensation produced by the presence of the strangers had
not in the least subsided at the period of our arrival at the
islands. The natives still flocked in numbers about the encamp-
ment, and watched with the liveliest curiosity everything that
was going forward. A blacksmith’s forge, which had been set
up in the shelter of a grove near the beach, attracted so great a
crowd, that it required the utmost efforts of the sentries posted
around to keep the inquisitive multitude at a sufficient distance
to allow the workmen to ply their vocation. But nothing gained
so large a share of admiration as a horse, which had been
brought from Valparaiso by the Achille, one of the vessels of
the squadron. The animal, a remarkably fine one, had been
taken ashore and stabled in a hut of cocoa-nut boughs within
the fortified enclosure. Occasionally it was brought out, and,
being gaily caparisoned, was ridden by one of the officers at full
speed over the hard sand beach. This performance was sure to
be hailed with loud plaudits, and the “puarkee nuee” (big hog)
was unanimously pronounced by the islanders to be the most
extraordinary specimen of zoology that had ever come under
their observation.

The expedition for the occupation of the Marquesas had sailed
from Brest in the spring of 1842, and the secret of its desti-
nation was solely in the possession of its commander. No
wonder that those who contemplated such a signal infraction of
the rights of humanity should have sought to veil the enormity
from the eyes of the world. And yet, notwithstanding their
iniquitous conduct in this and in other matters, the French have
ever plumed themselves upon being the most humane and po-
lished of nations. A high degree of refinement, however, does
not seem to subdue our wicked propensities so much after all;
and were civilization itself to be estimated by some of its results,

[ 18 ]

it would seem perhaps better for what we call the barbarous
part of the world to remain unchanged.

One example of the shameless subterfuges under which the
French stand prepared to defend whatever cruelties they may
hereafter think fit to commit in bringing the Marquesan natives
into subjection is well worthy of being recorded. On some
flimsy pretext or other Mowanna, the king of Nukuheva, whom
the invaders by extravagant presents have cajoled over to their
interests, and move about like a mere puppet, has been set up
as the rightful sovereign of the entire island,—the alleged ruler
by prescription of various clans who for ages perhaps have
treated with each other as separate nations. To reinstate this
much-injured prince in the assumed dignities of his ancestors,
the disinterested strangers have come all the way from France:
they are determined that his title shall be acknowledged. If any
tribe shall refuse to recognise the authority of the French, by
bowing down to the laced chapeau of Mowanna, let them abide
the consequences of their obstinacy. Under cover of a similar
pretence, have the outrages and massacres at Tahiti the beautiful,
the queen of the South Seas, been perpetrated.

On this buccaneering expedition, Rear-Admiral Du Petit
Thouars, leaving the rest of his squadron at the Marquesas—
which had then been occupied by his forces about five months—
set sail for the doomed island in the Reine Blanche frigate. On
his arrival, as an indemnity for alleged insults offered to the flag
of his country, he demanded some twenty or thirty thousand
dollars to be placed in his hands forthwith, and in default of
payment, threatened to land and take possession of the place.

The frigate, immediately upon coming to an anchor, got
springs on her cables, and with her guns cast loose and her men
at their quarters, lay in the circular basin of Papeete, with her
broadside bearing upon the devoted town; while her numerous
cutters, hauled in order alongside, were ready to effect a landing,
under cover of her batteries. She maintained this belligerent
attitude for several days, during which time a series of informal
negotiations were pending, and wide alarm spread over the
island. Many of the Tahitians were at first disposed to resort
to arms, and drive the invaders from their shores; but more
pacific and feebler councils ultimately prevailed. The unfortu-

[ 19 ]

nate queen, Pomare, incapable of averting the impending ca-
lamity, terrified at the arrogance of the insolent Frenchman,
and driven at last to despair, fled by night in a canoe to Emio.

During the continuance of the panic there occurred an in-
stance of feminine heroism that I cannot omit to record.

In the grounds of the famous missionary consul, Pritchard,
then absent in London, the consular flag of Britain waved as
usual during the day, from a lofty staff planted within a few
yards of the beach, and in full view of the frigate. One morn-
ing an officer, at the head of a party of men, presented himself
at the verandah of Mr. Pritchard’s house, and inquired in broken
English for the lady his wife. The matron soon made her
appearance; and the polite Frenchman, making one of his best
bows, and playing gracefully with the aguilettes that danced
upon his breast, proceeded in courteous accents to deliver his
mission. “The admiral desired the flag to be hauled down—
hoped it would be perfectly agreeable—and his men stood ready
to perform the duty.” “Tell the pirate your master,” replied the
spirited Englishwoman, pointing to the staff, “that if he wishes
to strike those colours, he must come and perform the act him-
self; I will suffer no one else to do it.” The lady then bowed
haughtily and withdrew into the house. As the discomfited
officer slowly walked away, he looked up to the flag, and per-
ceived that the cord by which it was elevated to its place, led
from the top of the staff, across the lawn, to an open upper win-
dow of the mansion, where sat the lady from whom he had just
parted, tranquilly engaged in knitting. Was that flag hauled
down? Mrs. Pritchard thinks not; and Rear Admiral Du
Petit Thouars is believed to be of the same opinion.

[ 20 ]

CHAPTER IV.

State of Affairs aboard the Ship—Contents of her Larder—Length of South
Seamen’s Voyages—Account of a Flying Whale-man—Determination to
Leave the Vessel—The Bay of Nukuheva—The Typees—Invasion of their
Valley by Porter — Reflections—Glen of Tior—Interview between the
Old King and the French Admiral.

Our ship had not been many days in the harbour of Nukuheva
before I came to the determination of leaving her. That my
reasons for resolving to take this step were numerous and weighty,
may be inferred from the fact that I chose rather to risk my for-
tunes among the savages of the island than to endure another
voyage on board the Dolly. To use the concise, point-blank
phrase of the sailors, I had made up my mind to “run away.”
Now as a meaning is generally attached to these two words no
way flattering to the individual to whom they are applied, it
behoves me, for the sake of my own character, to offer some
explanation of my conduct.

When I entered on board the Dolly, I signed as a matter of
course the ship’s articles, thereby voluntarily engaging and
legally binding myself to serve in a certain capacity for the
period of the voyage; and, special considerations apart, I was of
course bound to fulfill the agreement. But in all contracts, if
one party fail to perform his share of the compact, is not the
other virtually absolved from his liability? Who is there who
will not answer in the affirmative?

Having settled the principle, then, let me apply it to the
particular case in question. In numberless instances had not
only the implied but the specified conditions of the articles
been violated on the part of the ship in which I served. The
usage on board of her was tyrannical; the sick had been in-
humanly neglected; the provisions had been doled out in scanty
allowance; and her cruizes were unreasonably protracted. The
captain was the author of these abuses; it was in vain to think

[ 21 ]

that he would either remedy them, or alter his conduct, which
was arbitrary and violent in the extreme. His prompt reply to
all complaints and remonstrances was—the butt end of a hand-
spike, so convincingly administered as effectually to silence the
aggrieved party.

To whom could we apply for redress? We had left both law
and equity on the other side of the Cape; and unfortunately, with
a very few exceptions, our crew was composed of a parcel of
dastardly and mean-spirited wretches, divided among themselves,
and only united in enduring without resistance the unmitigated
tyranny of the captain. It would have been mere madness for
any two or three of the number, unassisted by the rest, to attempt
making a stand against his ill usage. They would only have
called down upon themselves the particular vengeance of this
“Lord of the Plank,” and subjected their shipmates to additional
hardships.

But, after all, these things could have been endured awhile,
had we entertained the hope of being speedily delivered from
them by the due completion of the term of our servitude. But
what a dismal prospect awaited us in this quarter! The longevity
of Cape Horn whaling voyages is proverbial, frequently extending
over a period of four or five years.

Some long-haired, bare-necked youths, who, forced by the
united influences of Captain Marryatt and hard times, embark at
Nantucket for a pleasure excursion to the Pacific, and whose
anxious mothers provide them with bottled milk for the occasion,
oftentimes return very respectable middle-aged gentlemen.

The very preparations made for one of these expeditions are
enough to frighten one. As the vessel carries out no cargo, her
hold is filled with provisions for her own consumption. The
owners, who officiate as caterers for the voyage, supply the larder
with an abundance of dainties. Delicate morsels of beef and
pork, cut on scientific principles from every part of the animal,
and of all conceivable shapes and sizes, are carefully packed in
salt, and stored away in barrels; affording a never-ending variety
in their different degrees of toughness, and in the peculiarities of
their saline properties. Choice old water too, decanted into
stout six-barrel-casks, and two pints of which are allowed every
day to each soul on board; together with ample store of sea-bread,

[ 22 ]

previously reduced to a state of petrifaction, with a view to pre-
serve it either from decay or consumption in the ordinary mode,
are likewise provided for the nourishment and gastronomic enjoy-
ment of the crew.

But not to speak of the quality of these articles of sailors’ fare,
the abundance in which they are put on board a whaling vessel
is almost incredible. Oftentimes, when we had occasion to break
out in the hold, and I beheld the successive tiers of casks and
barrels, whose contents were all destined to be consumed in due
course by the ship’s company, my heart has sunk within me.

Although, as a general case, a ship unlucky in falling in with
whales continues to cruize after them until she has barely suffi-
cient provisions remaining to take her home, turning round then
quietly and making the best of her way to her friends, yet there
are instances when even this natural obstacle to the further pro-
secution of the voyage is overcome by headstrong captains, who,
bartering the fruits of their hard-earned toils for a new supply of
provisions in some of the ports of Chili or Peru, begin the voyage
afresh with unabated zeal and perseverance. It is in vain that
the owners write urgent letters to him to sail for home, and for
their sake to bring back the ship, since it appears he can put
nothing in her. Not he. He has registered a vow: he will fill
his vessel with good sperm oil, or failing to do so, never again
strike Yankee soundings.

I heard of one whaler, which after many years’ absence was
given up for lost. The last that had been heard of her was a
shadowy report of her having touched at some of those unstable
islands in the far Pacific, whose eccentric wanderings are care-
fully noted in each new edition of the South-Sea charts. After
a long interval, however, ‘The Perseverance’—for that was her
name—was spoken somewhere in the vicinity of the ends of the
earth, cruizing along as leisurely as ever, her sails all bepatched
and bequilted with rope-yarns, her spars fished with old pipe
stores, and her rigging knotted and spliced in every possible
direction. Her crew was composed of some twenty venerable
Greenwich-pensioner-looking old salts, who just managed to
hobble about deck. The ends of all the running ropes, with the
exception of the signal halyards and poop-down-haul, were rove
through snatch-blocks, and led to the capstan or windlass, so

[ 23 ]

that not a yard was braced or a sail set without the assistance of
machinery.

Her hull was incrusted with barnacles, which completely en-
cased her. Three pet sharks followed in her wake, and every
day came alongside to regale themselves from the contents of the
cook’s bucket, which were pitched over to them. A vast shoal
of bonetas and albicores always kept her company.

Such as the account I heard of this vessel, and the remem-
brance of it always haunted me; what eventually became of her
I never learned; at any rate she never reached home, and I sup-
pose she is still regularly tacking twice in the twenty-four hours
somewhere off Buggerry Island, or the Devil’s-Tail Peak.

Having said thus much touching the usual length of these
voyages, when I inform the reader that ours had as it were just
commenced, we being only fifteen months out, and even at that
time hailed as a late arrival, and boarded for news, he will
readily perceive that there was little to encourage one in looking
forward to the future, especially as I had always had a presenti-
ment that we should make an unfortunate voyage, and our ex-
perience so far had justified the expectation.

I may here state, and on my faith as an honest man, that
though more than three years have elapsed since I left this same
identical vessel, she still continues in the Pacific, and but a few
days since I saw her reported in the papers as having touched at
the Sandwich Islands previous to going on the coast of Japan.

But to return to my narrative. Placed in these circumstances
then, with no prospect of matters mending if I remained aboard
the Dolly, I at once made up my mind to leave her: to be
sure it was rather an inglorious thing to steal away privily from
those at whose hands I had received wrongs and outrages that I
could not resent; but how was such a course to be avoided when
it was the only alternative left me? Having made up my mind,
I proceeded to acquire all the information I could obtain relating
to the island and its inhabitants, with a view of shaping my plans
of escape accordingly. The result of these inquiries I will now
state, in order that the ensuing narrative may be the better un-
derstood.

The bay of Nukuheva in which we were then lying is an ex-
panse of water not unlike in figure the space included within the

[ 24 ]

limits of a horse-shoe. It is, perhaps, nine miles in circumfer-
ence. You approach it from the sea by a narrow entrance,
flanked on either side by two small twin islets which soar coni-
cally to the height of some five hundred feet. From these the
shore recedes on both hands, and describes a deep semicircle.

From the verge of the water the land rises uniformly on all
sides, with green and sloping acclivities, until from gently rolling
hill-sides and moderate elevations it insensibly swells into lofty
and majestic heights, whose blue outlines, ranged all around,
close in the view. The beautiful aspect of the shore is heightened
by deep and romantic glens, which come down to it at almost
equal distances, all apparently radiating from a common centre,
and the upper extremities of which are lost to the eye beneath
the shadow of the mountains. Down each of these little valleys
flows a clear stream, here and there assuming the form of a
slender cascade, then stealing invisibly along until it burst upon
the sight again in larger and more noisy waterfalls, and at last
demurely wanders along to the sea.

The houses of the natives, constructed of the yellow bamboo,
tastefully twisted together in a kind of wicker-work, and thatched
with the long tapering leaves of the palmetto, are scattered irre-
gularly along these valleys beneath the shady branches of the
cocoa-nut trees.

Nothing can exceed the imposing scenery of this bay. Viewed
from our ship as she lay at anchor in the middle of the harbour,
it presented the appearance of a vast natural amphitheatre in
decay, and overgrown with vines, the deep glens that furrowed
its sides appearing like enormous fissures caused by the ravages of
time. Very often when lost in admiration at its beauty, I have
experienced a pang of regret that a scene so enchanting should
be hidden from the world in these remote seas, and seldom meet
the eyes of devoted lovers of nature.

Besides this bay the shores of the island are indented by several
other extensive inlets, into which descend broad and verdant
valleys. These are inhabited by as many distinct tribes of
savages, who, although speaking kindred dialects of a common
language, and having the same religion and laws, have from time
immemorial waged hereditary warfare against each other. The
intervening mountains, generally two or three thousand feet above

[ 25 ]

the level of the sea, geographically define the territories of each
of these hostile tribes, who never cross them, save on some ex-
pedition of war or plunder. Immediately adjacent to Nukuheva,
and only separated from it by the mountains seen from the
harbour, lies the lovely valley of Happar, whose inmates cherish
the most friendly relations with the inhabitants of Nukuheva.
On the other side of Happar, and closely adjoining it, is the mag-
nificent valley of the dreaded Typees, the unappeasable enemies
of both these tribes.

These celebrated warriors appear to inspire the other islanders
with unspeakable terrors. Their very name is a frightful one;
for the word “Typee” in the Marquesan dialect signifies a lover
of human flesh. It is rather singular that the title should have
been bestowed upon them exclusively, inasmuch as the natives of
all this group are irreclaimable cannibals. The name may, per-
haps, have been given to denote the peculiar ferocity of this clan,
and to convey a special stigma along with it.

These same Typees enjoy a prodigious notoriety all over the
islands. The natives of Nukuheva would frequently recount in
pantomime to our ship’s company their terrible feats, and would
show the marks of wounds they had received in desperate en-
counters with them. When ashore they would try to frighten
us by pointing to one of their own number, and calling him a
Typee, manifesting no little surprise that we did not take to our
heels at so terrible an announcement. It was quite amusing, too,
to see with what earnestness they disclaimed all cannibal propen-
sities on their own part, while they denounced their enemies—the
Typees—as inveterate gormandizers of human flesh; but this is
a peculiarity to which I shall hereafter have occasion to allude.

Although I was convinced that the inhabitants of our bay
were as arrant cannibals as any of the other tribes on the island,
still I could not but feel a particular and most unqualified re-
pugnance to the aforesaid Typees. Even before visiting the
Marquesas, I had heard from men who had touched at the group
on former voyages some revolting stories in connection with
these savages; and fresh in my remembrance was the adventure
of the master of the Katherine, who only a few months pre-
vious, imprudently venturing into this bay in an armed boat for
the purpose of barter, was seized by the natives, carried back a

[ 26 ]

little distance into their valley, and was only saved from a cruel
death by the intervention of a young girl, who facilitated his
escape by night along the beach to Nukuheva.

I had heard too of an English vessel that many years ago, after
a weary cruize, sought to enter the bay of Nukuheva, and ar-
riving within two or three miles of the land, was met by a large
canoe filled with natives, who offered to lead the way to the place
of their destination. The captain, unacquainted with the locali-
ties of the island, joyfully acceded to the proposition—the canoe
paddled on and the ship followed. She was soon conducted to a
beautiful inlet, and dropped her anchor in its waters beneath the
shadows of the lofty shore. That same night the perfidious
Typees, who had thus inveigled her into their fatal bay, flocked
aboard the doomed vessel by hundreds, and at a given signal
murdered every soul on board.

I shall never forget the observation of one of our crew as we
were passing slowly by the entrance of this bay in our way to
Nukuheva. As we stood gazing over the side at the verdant
headlands, Ned, pointing with his hand in the direction of the
treacherous valley, exclaimed, “There—there’s Typee. Oh,
the bloody cannibals, what a meal they’d make of us if we were
to take it into our heads to land! but they say they don’t like
sailor’s flesh, it’s too salt. I say, maty, how should you like to
be shoved ashore there, eh?” I little thought, as I shuddered at
the question, that in the space of a few weeks I should actually
be a captive in that self-same valley.

The French, although they had gone through the ceremony
of hoisting their colours for a few hours at all the principal places
of the group, had not as yet visited the bay of Typee, antici-
pating a fierce resistance on the part of the savages there, which
for the present at least they wished to avoid. Perhaps they were
not a little influenced in the adoption of this unusual policy from
a recollection of the warlike reception given by the Typees to the
forces of Captain Porter, about the year 1814, when that brave
and accomplished officer endeavoured to subjugate the clan merely
to gratify the mortal hatred of his allies the Nukuhevas and
Happars.

On that occasion I have been told that a considerable detach-
ment of sailors and marines from the frigate Essex, accompanied

[ 27 ]

by at least two thousand warriors of Happar and Nukuheva,
landed in boats and canoes at the head of the bay, and after pene-
trating a little distance into the valley, met with the stoutest
resistance from its inmates. Valiantly, although with much loss,
the Typees disputed every inch of ground, and after some hard
fighting obliged their assailants to retreat and abandon their
design of conquest.

The invaders, on their march back to the sea, consoled them-
selves for their repulse by setting fire to every house and temple
in their route; and a long line of smoking ruins defaced the
once-smiling bosom of the valley, and proclaimed to its pagan
inhabitants the spirit that reigned in the breasts of Christian
soldiers. Who can wonder at the deadly hatred of the Typees
to all foreigners after such unprovoked atrocities?

Thus it is that they whom we denominate “savages” are made
to deserve the title. When the inhabitants of some sequestered
island first descry the “big canoe” of the European rolling
through the blue waters towards their shores, they rush down to
the beach in crowds, and with open arms stand ready to embrace
the strangers. Fatal embrace! They fold to their bosoms the
vipers whose sting is destined to poison all their joys; and the
instinctive feeling of love within their breasts is soon converted
into the bitterest hate.

The enormities perpetrated in the South Seas upon some of
the inoffensive islanders wellnigh pass belief. These things are
seldom proclaimed at home; they happen at the very ends of the
earth; they are done in a corner, and there are none to reveal
them. But there is, nevertheless, many a petty trader that has
navigated the Pacific whose course from island to island might
be traced by a series of cold-blooded robberies, kidnappings, and
murders, the iniquity of which might be considered almost suffi-
cient to sink her guilty timbers to the bottom of the sea.

Sometimes vague accounts of such things reach our firesides,
and we coolly censure them as wrong, impolitic, needlessly severe,
and dangerous to the crews of other vessels. How different is
our tone when we read the highly-wrought description of the
massacre of the crew of the Hobomak by the Feejees; how we
sympathise for the unhappy victims, and with what horror do we
regard the diabolical heathens, who, after all, have but avenged

[ 28 ]

the unprovoked injuries which they have received. We breathe
nothing but vengeance, and equip armed vessels to traverse thou-
sands of miles of ocean in order to execute summary punishment
upon the offenders. On arriving at their destination, they burn,
slaughter, and destroy, according to the tenor of written instruc-
tions, and sailing away from the scene of devastation, call upon
all Christendom to applaud their courage and their justice.

How often is the term “savages” incorrectly applied! None
really deserving of it were ever yet discovered by voyagers or by
travellers. They have discovered heathens and barbarians, whom
by horrible cruelties they have exasperated into savages. It
may be asserted without fear of contradiction, that in all the
cases of outrages committed by Polynesians, Europeans have at
some time or other been the aggressors, and that the cruel and
bloodthirsty disposition of some of the islanders is mainly to be
ascribed to the influence of such examples.

But to return. Owing to the mutual hostilities of the different
tribes I have mentioned, the mountainous tracts which separate
their respective territories remain altogether uninhabited; the
natives invariably dwelling in the depths of the valleys, with a
view of securing themselves from the predatory incursions of
their enemies, who often lurk along their borders, ready to cut
off any imprudent straggler, or make a descent upon the inmates
of some sequestered habitation. I several times met with very
aged men, who from this cause had never passed the confines of
their native vale, some of them having never even ascended mid-
way up the mountains in the whole course of their lives, and
who, accordingly, had little idea of the appearance of any other
part of the island, the whole of which is not perhaps more than
sixty miles in circuit. The little space in which some of these
clans pass away their days would seem almost incredible.

The glen of Tior will furnish a curious illustration of this.
The inhabited part is not more than four miles in length, and
varies in breadth from half a mile to less than a quarter. The
rocky vine-clad cliffs on one side tower almost perpendicularly
from their base to the height of at least fifteen hundred feet; while
across the vale—in striking contrast to the scenery opposite—
grass-grown elevations rise one above another in blooming ter-
races. Hemmed in by these stupendous barriers, the valley would

[ 29 ]

be altogether shut out from the rest of the world, were it not that
it is accessible from the sea at one end, and by a narrow defile at
the other.

The impression produced upon my mind, when I first visited
this beautiful glen, will never be obliterated.

I had come from Nukuheva by water in the ship’s boat, and
when we entered the bay of Tior it was high noon. The heat
had been intense, as we had been floating upon the long smooth
swell of the ocean, for there was but little wind. The sun’s rays
had expended all their fury upon us; and to add to our discomfort,
we had omitted to supply ourselves with water previous to start-
ing. What with heat and thirst together, I became so impatient
to get ashore, that when at last we glided towards it, I stood up
in the bow of the boat ready for a spring. As she shot two-thirds
of her length high upon the beach, propelled by three or four
strong strokes of the oars, I leaped among a parcel of juvenile
savages, who stood prepared to give us a kind reception; and
with them at my heels, yelling like so many imps, I rushed for-
ward across the open ground in the vicinity of the sea, and
plunged, diver fashion, into the recesses of the first grove that
offered.

What a delightful sensation did I experience! I felt as if
floating in some new element, while all sort of gurgling, trickling,
liquid sounds fell upon my ear. People may say what they will
about the refreshing influences of a cold-water bath, but commend
me when in a perspiration to the shade baths of Tior, beneath
the cocoa-nut trees, and amidst the cool delightful atmosphere
which surrounds them.

How shall I describe the scenery that met my eye, as I looked
out from this verdant recess! The narrow valley, with its steep
and close adjoining sides draperied with vines, and arched over-
head with a fret-work of interlacing boughs, nearly hidden from
view by masses of leafy verdure, seemed from where I stood like
an immense arbour disclosing its vista to the eye, whilst as I
advanced it insensibly widened into the loveliest vale eye ever
beheld.

It so happened that the very day I was in Tior the French
admiral, attended by all the boats of his squadron, came down in
state from Nukuheva to take formal possession of the place. He

[ 30 ]

remained in the valley about two hours, during which time he
had a ceremonious interview with the king.

The patriarch-sovereign of Tior was a man very far advanced
in years; but though age had bowed his form and rendered him
almost decrepid, his gigantic frame retained all its original mag-
nitude and grandeur of appearance. He advanced slowly and
with evident pain, assisting his tottering steps with the heavy
war-spear he held in his hand, and attended by a group of grey-
bearded chiefs, on one of whom he occasionally leaned for sup-
port. The admiral came forward with head uncovered and ex-
tended hand, while the old king saluted him by a stately flourish
of his weapon. The next moment they stood side by side, these
two extremes of the social scale,—the polished, splendid French-
man, and the poor tattooed savage. They were both tall and
noble-looking men; but in other respects how strikingly con-
trasted! Du Petit Thouars exhibited upon his person all the
paraphernalia of his naval rank. He wore a richly decorated
admiral’s frock-coat, a laced chapeau bras, and upon his breast
were a variety of ribbons and orders; while the simple islander,
with the exception of a slight cincture about his loins, appeared
in all the nakedness of nature.

At what an immeasurable distance, thought I, are these two
beings removed from each other. In the one is shown the result
of long centuries of progressive civilization and refinement, which
have gradually converted the mere creature into the semblance of
all that is elevated and grand; while the other, after the lapse of
the same period, has not advanced one step in the career of improve-
ment. “Yet, after all,” quoth I to myself, “insensible as he is to
a thousand wants, and removed from harassing cares, may not the
savage be the happier man of the two?” Such were the thoughts
that arose in my mind as I gazed upon the novel spectacle before
me. In truth it was an impressive one, and little likely to be
effaced. I can recall even now with vivid distinctness every fea-
ture of the scene. The umbrageous shades where the interview
took place—the glorious tropical vegetation around—the pic-
turesque grouping of the mingled throng of soldiery and natives
—and even the golden-hued bunch of banannas that I held in
my hand at the time, and of which I occasionally partook while
making the aforesaid philosophical reflections.

[ 31 ]

CHAPTER V.

Thoughts previous to attempting an Escape—Toby, a Fellow Sailor, agrees
to share the Adventure—Last Night aboard the Ship.

Having fully resolved to leave the vessel clandestinely, and
having acquired all the knowledge concerning the bay that I
could obtain under the circumstances in which I was placed,
I now deliberately turned over in my mind every plan of escape
that suggested itself, being determined to act with all possible
prudence in an attempt where failure would be attended with so
many disagreeable consequences. The idea of being taken and
brought back ignominiously to the ship was so inexpressibly
repulsive to me, that I was determined by no hasty and impru-
dent measures to render such an event probable.

I knew that our worthy captain, who felt such a paternal
solicitude for the welfare of his crew, would not willingly con-
sent that one of his best hands should encounter the perils of a
sojourn among the natives of a barbarous island; and I was
certain that in the event of my disappearance, his fatherly
anxiety would prompt him to offer, by way of a reward, yard
upon yard of gaily printed calico for my apprehension. He
might even have appreciated my services at the value of a mus-
ket, in which case I felt perfectly certain that the whole popu-
lation of the bay would be immediately upon my track, incited
by the prospect of so magnificent a bounty.

Having ascertained the fact before alluded to, that the
islanders, from motives of precaution, dwelt altogether in the
depths of the valleys, and avoided wandering about the more
elevated portions of the shore, unless bound on some expedition
of war or plunder, I concluded that if I could effect unperceived
a passage to the mountains, I might easily remain among them,
supporting myself by such fruits as came in my way until the
sailing of the ship, an event of which I could not fail to be im-

[ 32 ]

mediately apprised, as from my lofty position I should command
a view of the entire harbour.

The idea pleased me greatly. It seemed to combine a great
deal of practicability with no inconsiderable enjoyment in a
quiet way; for how delightful it would be to look down upon
the detested old vessel from the height of some thousand feet,
and contrast the verdant scenery about me with the recollection
of her narrow decks and gloomy forecastle! Why, it was really
refreshing even to think of it; and so I straightway fell to pic-
turing myself seated beneath a cocoa-nut tree on the brow of
the mountain, with a cluster of plantains within easy reach,
criticizing her nautical evolutions as she was working her way
out of the harbour.

To be sure there was one rather unpleasant drawback to these
agreeable anticipations—the possibility of falling in with a fo-
raging party of these same bloody-minded Typees, whose appe-
tites, edged perhaps by the air of so elevated a region, might
prompt them to devour one. This, I must confess, was a most
disagreeable view of the matter.

Just to think of a party of these unnatural gourmands taking
it into their heads to make a convivial meal of a poor devil, who
would have no means of escape or defence: however, there was
no help for it. I was willing to encounter some risks in order
to accomplish my object, and counted much upon my ability to
elude these prowling cannibals amongst the many coverts which
the mountains afforded. Besides, the chances were ten to one
in my favour that they would none of them quit their own fast-
nesses.

I had determined not to communicate my design of with-
drawing from the vessel to any of my shipmates, and least of all
to solicit any one to accompany me in my flight. But it so
happened one night, that being upon deck, revolving over in my
mind various plans of escape, I perceived one of the ship’s
company leaning over the bulwarks, apparently plunged in a
profound reverie. He was a young fellow about my own age,
for whom I had all along entertained a great regard; and Toby,
such was the name by which he went among us, for his real
name he would never tell us, was every way worthy of it. He

[ 33 ]

was active, ready, and obliging, of dauntless courage, and singu-
larly open and fearless in the expression of his feelings. I had
on more than one occasion got him out of scrapes into which this
had led him; and I know not whether it was from this cause, or
a certain congeniality of sentiment between us, that he had
always shown a partiality for my society. We had battled out
many a long watch together, beguiling the weary hours with
chat, song, and story, mingled with a good many imprecations
upon the hard destiny it seemed our common fortune to en-
counter.

Toby, like myself, had evidently moved in a different sphere
of life, and his conversation at times betrayed this, although he
was anxious to conceal it. He was one of that class of rovers
you sometimes meet at sea, who never reveal their origin, never
allude to home, and go rambling over the world as if pursued
by some mysterious fate they cannot possibly elude.

There was much even in the appearance of Toby calculated
to draw me towards him, for while the greater part of the crew
were as coarse in person as in mind, Toby was endowed with a
remarkably prepossessing exterior. Arrayed in his blue frock
and duck trousers, he was as smart a looking sailor as ever
stepped upon a deck; he was singularly small and slightly made,
with great flexibility of limb. His naturally dark complexion
had been deepened by exposure to the tropical sun, and a mass
of jetty locks clustered about his temples, and threw a darker
shade into his large black eyes. He was a strange wayward
being, moody, fitful, and melancholy—at times almost morose.
He had a quick and fiery temper too, which, when thoroughly
roused, transported him into a state bordering on delirium.

It is strange the power that a mind of deep passion has over
feebler natures. I have seen a brawny fellow, with no lack of
ordinary courage, fairly quail before this slender stripling, when
in one of his furious fits. But these paroxysms seldom occurred,
and in them my big-hearted shipmate vented the bile which
more calm-tempered individuals get rid of by a continual pettish-
ness at trival annoyances.

No one ever saw Toby laugh; I mean in the hearty aban-
donment of broad-mouthed mirth. He did smile sometimes, it
is true; and there was a good deal of dry, sarcastic humour

[ 34 ]

about him, which told the more from the imperturbable gravity
of his tone and manner.

Latterly I had observed that Toby’s melancholy had greatly
increased, and I had frequently seen him since our arrival at the
island gazing wistfully upon the shore, when the remainder of
the crew would be rioting below. I was aware that he enter-
tained a cordial detestation of the ship, and believed that, should
a fair chance of escape present itself, he would embrace it will-
ingly. But the attempt was so perilous in the place where we
then lay, that I supposed myself the only individual on board
the ship who was sufficiently reckless to think of it. In this,
however, I was mistaken.

When I perceived Toby leaning, as I have mentioned, against
the bulwarks and buried in thought, it struck me at once that
the subject of his meditations might be the same as my own.
And if it be so, thought I, is he not the very one of all my ship-
mates whom I would choose for the partner of my adventure?
and why should I not have some comrade with me to divide its
dangers and alleviate its hardships? Perhaps I might be obliged
to lie concealed among the mountains for weeks. In such an
event what a solace would a companion be?

These thoughts passed rapidly through my mind, and I won-
dered why I had not before considered the matter in this light.
But it was not too late. A tap upon the shoulder served to
rouse Toby from his reverie; I found him ripe for the enter-
prise, and a very few words sufficed for a mutual understanding
between us. In an hour’s time we had arranged all the preli-
minaries, and decided upon our plan of action. We then ratified
our engagement with an affectionate wedding of palms, and to
elude suspicion repaired each to his hammock, to spend the last
night on board the Dolly.

The next day the starboard watch, to which we both belonged,
was to be sent ashore on liberty; and, availing ourselves of this
opportunity, we determined, as soon after landing as possible, to
separate ourselves from the rest of the men without exciting their
suspicions, and strike back at once for the mountains. Seen
from the ship, their summits appeared inaccessible, but here and
there sloping spurs extended from them almost into the sea,
buttressing the lofty elevations with which they were connected,

[ 35 ]

and forming those radiating valleys I have before described.
One of these ridges, which appeared more practicable than the
rest, we determined to climb, convinced that it would conduct
us to the heights beyond. Accordingly, we carefully observed
its bearings and locality from the ship, so that when ashore we
should run no chance of missing it.

In all this the leading object we had in view was to seclude
ourselves from sight until the departure of the vessel; then to
take our chance as to the reception the Nukuheva natives
might give us; and after remaining upon the island as long as
we found our stay agreeable, to leave it the first favourable op-
portunity that offered.

[ 36 ]

CHAPTER VI.

A Specimen of Nautical Oratory—Criticisms of the Sailors—The Starboard
Watch are given a Holiday—The Escape to the Mountains.

Early the next morning the starboard watch were mustered
upon the quarter-deck, and our worthy captain, standing in the
cabin gangway, harangued us as follows:—

“Now, men, as we are just off a six months’ cruise, and have
got through most all our work in port here, I suppose you want
to go ashore. Well, I mean to give your watch liberty to-day,
so you may get ready as soon as you please, and go; but under-
stand this, I am going to give you liberty because I suppose you
would growl like so many old quarter gunners if I didn’t; at
the same time, if you’ll take my advice, every mother’s son of
you will stay aboard, and keep out of the way of the bloody can-
nibals altogether. Ten to one, men, if you go ashore, you will
get into some infernal row, and that will be the end of you; for
if those tattooed scoundrels get you a little ways back into their
valleys, they’ll nab you—that you may be certain of. Plenty of
white men have gone ashore here and never been seen any more.
There was the old Dido, she put in here about two years ago, and
sent one watch off on liberty; they never were heard of again for
a week—the natives swore they didn’t know where they were—
and only three of them ever got back to the ship again, and one
with his face damaged for life, for the cursed heathens tattooed
a broad patch clean across his figure-head. But it will be no
use talking to you, for go you will, that I see plainly; so all I
have to say is, that you need not blame me if the islanders make
a meal of you. You may stand some chance of escaping them
though, if you keep close about the French encampment, and are
back to the ship again before sunset. Keep that much in your
mind, if you forget all the rest I’ve been saying to you. There,
go forward; bear a hand and rig yourselves, and stand by for a

[ 37 ]

call. At two bells the boat will be manned to take you off, and
the Lord have mercy on you!”

Various were the emotions depicted upon the countenances of
the starboard watch whilst listening to this address; but on its
conclusion there was a general move towards the forecastle, and
we soon were all busily engaged in getting ready for the holiday
so auspiciously announced by the skipper. During these pre-
parations his harangue was commented upon in no very mea-
sured terms; and one of the party, after denouncing him as a
lying old son of a sea-cook who begrudged a fellow a few hours’
liberty, exclaimed with an oath, “But you don’t bounce me out
of my liberty, old chap, for all your yarns; for I would go ashore
if every pebble on the beach was a live coal, and every stick a
gridiron, and the cannibals stood ready to broil me on landing.”

The spirit of this sentiment was responded to by all hands,
and we resolved that in spite of the captain’s croakings we would
make a glorious day of it.

But Toby and I had our own game to play, and we availed
ourselves of the confusion which always reigns among a ship’s
company preparatory to going ashore, to confer together and
complete our arrangements. As our object was to effect as rapid
a flight as possible to the mountains, we determined not to en-
cumber ourselves with any superfluous apparel; and accordingly,
while the rest were rigging themselves out with some idea of
making a display, we were content to put on new stout duck
trousers, serviceable pumps, and heavy Havre-frocks, which with
a Payta hat completed our equipment.

When our shipmates wondered at this, Toby exclaimed in his
odd grave way that the rest might do as they liked, but that he
for one preserved his go-ashore traps for the Spanish main, where
the tie of a sailor’s neckerchief might make some difference;
but as for a parcel of unbreeched heathen, he wouldn’t go to
the bottom of his chest for any of them, and was half disposed
to appear among them in buff himself. The men laughed at
what they thought was one of his strange conceits, and so we
escaped suspicion.

It may appear singular that we should have been thus on our
guard with our own shipmates; but there were some among us
who, had they possessed the least inkling of our project, would,

[ 38 ]

for a paltry hope of reward, have immediately communicated it
to the captain.

As soon as two bells were struck, the word was passed for the
liberty-men to get into the boat. I lingered behind in the fore-
castle a moment to take a parting glance at its familiar features,
and just as I was about to ascend to the deck my eye happened
to light on the bread-barge and beef-kid, which contained the
remnants of our last hasty meal. Although I had never before
thought of providing anything in the way of food for our expedi-
tion, as I fully relied upon the fruits of the island to sustain us
wherever we might wander, yet I could not resist the inclination
I felt to provide luncheon from the relics before me. Accord-
ingly I took a double handful of those small, broken, flinty bits
of biscuit which generally go by the name of “midshipmen’s
nuts,” and thrust them into the bosom of my frock; in which
same ample receptacle I had previously stowed away several
pounds of tobacco and a few yards of cotton cloth—articles with
which I intended to purchase the good-will of the natives, as
soon as we should appear among them after the departure of our
vessel.

This last addition to my stock caused a considerable pro-
tuberance in front, which I abated in a measure by shaking the
bits of bread around my waist, and distributing the plugs of
tobacco among the folds of the garment.

Hardly had I completed these arrangements when my name
was sung out by a dozen voices, and I sprung upon the deck,
where I found all the party in the boat, and impatient to shove
off. I dropped over the side and seated myself with the rest of
the watch in the stern sheets, while the poor larborders shipped
their oars, and commenced pulling us ashore.

This happened to be the rainy season at the islands, and the
heavens had nearly the whole morning betokened one of those
heavy showers which during this period so frequently occur.
The large drops fell bubbling into the water shortly after our
leaving the ship, and by the time we had effected a landing it
poured down in torrents. We fled for shelter under cover of an
immense canoe-house which stood hard by the beach, and waited
for the first fury of the storm to pass.

It continued, however, without cessation; and the monotonous

[ 39 ]

beating of the rain over head began to exert a drowsy influence
upon the men, who, throwing themselves here and there upon
the large war-canoes, after chatting awhile, all fell asleep.

This was the opportunity we desired, and Toby and I availed
ourselves of it at once by stealing out of the canoe-house and
plunging into the depths of an extensive grove that was in its
rear. After ten minutes’ rapid progress we gained an open space
from which we could just descry the ridge we intended to mount
looming dimly through the mists of the tropical shower, and
distant from us, as we estimated, something more than a mile.
Our direct course towards it lay through a rather populous part
of the bay; but desirous as we were of evading the natives, and
securing an unmolested retreat to the mountains, we determined,
by taking a circuit through some extensive thickets, to avoid their
vicinity altogether.

The heavy rain that still continued to fall without intermission
favoured our enterprise, as it drove the islanders into their houses,
and prevented any casual meeting with them. Our heavy frocks
soon became completely saturated with water, and by their
weight, and that of the articles we had concealed beneath them,
not a little impeded our progress. But it was no time to pause
when at any moment we might be surprised by a body of the
savages, and forced at the very outset to relinquish our under-
taking.

Since leaving the canoe-house we had scarcely exchanged a
single syllable with one another; but when we entered a second
narrow opening in the wood, and again caught sight of the ridge
before us, I took Toby by the arm, and pointing along its sloping
outline to the lofty heights at its extremity, said in a low tone,
“Now Toby, not a word, nor a glance backward, till we stand
on the summit of yonder mountain—so no more lingering, but
let us shove ahead while we can, and in a few hours’ time we may
laugh aloud.—You are the lightest and the nimblest, so lead on,
and I will follow.”

“All right, brother,” said Toby, “quick’s our play; only let’s
keep close together, that’s all;” and so saying, with a bound like
a young roe, he cleared a brook which ran across our path, and
rushed forward with a quick step.

[ 40 ]

When we arrived within a short distance of the ridge, we were
stopped by a mass of tall yellow reeds, growing together as
thickly as they could stand, and as tough and stubborn as so
many rods of steel; and we perceived, to our chagrin, that they
extended midway up the elevation we purposed to ascend.

For a moment we gazed about us in quest of a more practi-
cable route; it was, however, at once apparent that there was no
resource but to pierce this thicket of canes at all hazards. We
now reversed our order of march, I, being the heaviest, taking
the lead, with a view of breaking a path through the obstruction,
while Toby fell into the rear.

Two or three times I endeavoured to insinuate myself between
the canes, and by dint of coaxing and bending them to make
some progress; but a bull-frog might as well have tried to work
a passage through the teeth of a comb, and I gave up the attempt
in despair.

Half wild with meeting an obstacle we had so little antici-
pated, I threw myself desperately against it, crushing to the
ground the canes with which I came in contact; and, rising
to my feet again, repeated the action with like effect. Twenty
minutes of this violent exercise almost exhausted me, but it
carried us some way into the thicket; when Toby, who had
been reaping the benefit of my labours by following close at
my heels, proposed to become pioneer in turn, and accordingly
passed ahead with a view of affording me a respite from my
exertions. As however with his slight frame he made but bad
work of it, I was soon obliged to resume my old place again.

On we toiled, the perspiration starting from our bodies in
floods, our limbs torn and lacerated with the splintered fragments
of the broken canes, until we had proceeded perhaps as far as the
middle of the brake, when suddenly it ceased raining, and the
atmosphere around us became close and sultry beyond expression.
The elasticity of the reeds, quickly recovering from the tempo-
rary pressure of our bodies, caused them to spring back to their
original position; so that they closed in upon us as we advanced,
and prevented the circulation of the little air which might
otherwise have reached us. Besides this, their great height
completely shut us out from the view of surrounding objects,

[ 41 ]

and we were not certain but that we might have been going all
the time in a wrong direction.

Fatigued with my long-continued efforts, and panting for
breath, I felt myself completely incapacitated for any further
exertion. I rolled up the sleeve of my frock, and squeezed the
moisture it contained into my parched mouth. But the few
drops I managed to obtain gave me little relief, and I sunk down
for a moment with a sort of dogged apathy, from which I was
aroused by Toby, who had devised a plan to free us from the net
in which we had become entangled.

He was laying about him lustily with his sheath-knife, lopping
the canes right and left, like a reaper, and soon made quite a
clearing around us. This sight reanimated me, and seizing my
own knife, I hacked and hewed away without mercy. But alas!
the farther we advanced, the thicker and taller, and apparently
the more interminable, the reeds became.

I began to think we were fairly snared, and had almost made
up my mind that without a pair of wings we should never be
able to escape from the toils; when all at once I discerned a
peep of daylight through the canes on my right, and, communi-
cating the joyful tidings to Toby, we both fell to with fresh
spirit, and speedily opening a passage towards it we found our-
selves clear of perplexities, and in the near vicinity of the ridge.

After resting for a few moments we began the ascent, and
after a little vigorous climbing found ourselves close to its
summit. Instead however of walking along its ridge, where we
should have been in full view of the natives in the vales beneath,
and at a point where they could easily intercept us were they so
inclined, we cautiously advanced on one side, crawling on our
hands and knees, and screened from observation by the grass
through which we glided, much in the fashion of a couple of
serpents. After an hour employed in this unpleasant kind of
locomotion, we started to our feet again and pursued our way
boldly along the crest of the ridge.

This salient spur of the lofty elevations that encompassed the
bay rose with a sharp angle from the valleys at its base, and
presented, with the exception of a few steep acclivities, the ap-
pearance of a vast inclined plane, sweeping down towards the

[ 42 ]

sea from the heights in the distance. We had ascended it near
the place of its termination and at its lowest point, and now saw
our route to the mountains distinctly defined along its narrow
crest, which was covered with a soft carpet of verdure, and was
in many parts only a few feet wide.

Elated with the success which had so far attended our enter-
prise, and invigorated by the refreshing atmosphere we now
inhaled, Toby and I in high spirits were making our way rapidly
along the ridge, when suddenly from the valleys below which lay
on either side of us we heard the distant shouts of the natives,
who had just descried us, and to whom our figures, brought in
bold relief against the sky, were plainly revealed.

Glancing our eyes into these valleys, we perceived their savage
inhabitants hurrying to and fro, seemingly under the influence
of some sudden alarm, and appearing to the eye scarcely bigger
than so many pigmies; while their white thatched dwellings,
dwarfed by the distance, looked like baby-houses. As we looked
down upon the islanders from our lofty elevation, we experienced
a sense of security; feeling confident that, should they undertake
a pursuit, it would, from the start we now had, prove entirely
fruitless, unless they followed us into the mountains, where we
knew they cared not to venture.

However, we thought it as well to make the most of our time;
and accordingly, where the ground would admit of it, we ran
swiftly along the summit of the ridge, until we were brought to
a stand by a steep cliff, which at first seemed to interpose an
effectual barrier to our further advance. By dint of much hard
scrambling however, and at some risk to our necks, we at last
surmounted it, and continued our flight with unabated celerity.

We had left the beach early in the morning, and after an un-
interrupted, though at times difficult and dangerous ascent,
during which we had never once turned our faces to the sea, we
found ourselves, about three hours before sunset, standing on the
top of what seemed to be the highest land on the island, an im-
mense overhanging cliff composed of basaltic rocks, hung round
with parasitical plants. We must have been more than three
thousand feet above the level of the sea, and the scenery viewed
from this height was magnificent.

[ 43 ]

The lonely bay of Nukuheva, dotted here and there with the
black hulls of the vessels composing the French squadron, lay
reposing at the base of a circular range of elevations, whose
verdant sides, perforated with deep glens or diversified with
smiling valleys, formed altogether the loveliest view I ever be-
held, and were I to live a hundred years, I should never forget
the feeling of admiration which I then experienced.

[ 44 ]

CHAPTER VII.

The other side of the Mountain—Disappointment—Inventory of Articles
brought from the Ship—Division of the Stock of Bread—Appearance of
the Interior of the Island—A Discovery—A Ravine and Waterfalls—A
sleepless Night—Further Discoveries—My Illness—A Marquesan Land-
scape.

My curiosity had been not a little raised with regard to the
description of country we should meet on the other side of the
mountains; and I had supposed, with Toby, that immediately on
gaining the heights we should be enabled to view the large bays
of Happar and Typee reposing at our feet on one side, in the
same way that Nukuheva lay spread out below on the other.
But here we were disappointed. Instead of finding the mountain
we had ascended sweeping down in the opposite direction into
broad and capacious valleys, the land appeared to retain its
general elevation, only broken into a series of ridges and inter-
vales, which as far as the eye could reach stretched away from
us, with their precipitous sides covered with the brightest ver-
dure, and waving here and there with the foliage of clumps of
woodland; among which, however, we perceived none of those
trees upon whose fruit we had relied with such certainty.

This was a most unlooked-for discovery, and one that promised
to defeat our plans altogether, for we could not think of descend-
ing the mountain on the Nukuheva side in quest of food. Should
we for this purpose be induced to retrace our steps, we should
run no small chance of encountering the natives, who in that
case, if they did nothing worse to us, would be certain to convey
us back to the ship for the sake of the reward in calico and
trinkets, which we had no doubt our skipper would hold out to
them as an inducement to our capture.

What was to be done? The Dolly would not sail perhaps
for ten days, and how were we to sustain life during this period?
I bitterly repented our improvidence in not providing ourselves,
as we easily might have done, with a supply of biscuit. With a

[ 45 ]

rueful visage I now bethought me of the scanty handful of bread
I had stuffed into the bosom of my frock, and felt somewhat
desirous to ascertain what part of it had weathered the rather
rough usage it had experienced in ascending the mountain. I
accordingly proposed to Toby that we should enter into a joint
examination of the various articles we had brought from the ship.
With this intent we seated ourselves upon the grass; and a little
curious to see with what kind of judgment my companion had
filled his frock—which I remarked seemed about as well lined as
my own—I requested him to commence operations by spreading
out its contents.

Thrusting his hand, then, into the bosom of this capacious
receptacle, he first brought to light about a pound of tobacco,
whose component parts still adhered together, the whole outside
being covered with soft particles of sea-bread. Wet and dripping,
it had the appearance of having been just recovered from the
bottom of the sea. But I paid slight attention to a substance of
so little value to us in our present situation, as soon as I perceived
the indications it gave of Toby’s foresight in laying in a supply
of food for the expedition.

I eagerly inquired what quantity he had brought with him,
when, rummaging once more beneath his garment, he produced
a small handful of something so soft, pulpy, and discoloured, that
for a few moments he was as much puzzled as myself to tell by
what possible instrumentality such a villainous compound had
become engendered in his bosom. I can only describe it as a
hash of soaked bread and bits of tobacco, brought to a doughy
consistency by the united agency of perspiration and rain. But
repulsive as it might otherwise have been, I now regarded it as
an invaluable treasure, and proceeded with great care to transfer
this paste-like mass to a large leaf which I had plucked from a
bush beside me. Toby informed me that in the morning he had
placed two whole biscuits in his bosom, with a view of munching
them, should he feel so inclined, during our flight. These were
now reduced to the equivocal substance which I had just placed
on the leaf.

Another dive into the frock brought to view some four or five
yards of calico print, whose tasteful pattern was rather disfigured
by the yellow stains of the tobacco with which it had been

[ 46 ]

brought in contact. In drawing this calico slowly from his
bosom inch by inch, Toby reminded me of a juggler performing
the feat of the endless ribbon. The next cast was a small one,
being a sailor’s little “ditty-bag,” containing needles, thread, and
other sewing utensils; then came a razor-case, followed by two
or three separate plugs of negro-head, which were fished up from
the bottom of the now empty receptacle. These various matters
being inspected, I produced the few things that I had myself
brought.

As might have been anticipated from the state of my com-
panion’s edible supplies, I found my own in a deplorable condition,
and diminished to a quantity that would not have formed half a
dozen mouthfuls for a hungry man who was partial enough to
tobacco not to mind swallowing it. A few morsels of bread,
with a fathom or two of white cotton cloth, and several pounds
of choice pigtail, composed the extent of my possessions.

Our joint stock of miscellaneous articles was now made up
into a compact bundle, which it was agreed we should carry
alternately. But the sorry remains of the biscuit were not to be
disposed of so summarily: the precarious circumstances in which
we were placed made us regard them as something on which very
probably depended the fate of our adventure. After a brief dis-
cussion, in which we both of us expressed our resolution of not
descending into the bay until the ship’s departure, I suggested to
my companion that little of it as there was, we should divide the
bread into six equal portions, each of which should be a day’s
allowance for both of us. This proposition he assented to; so I
took the silk kerchief from my neck, and cutting it with my
knife into half a dozen equal pieces, proceeded to make an exact
division.

At first, Toby, with a degree of fastidiousness that seemed to
me ill-timed, was for picking out the minute particles of tobacco
with which the spongy mass was mixed; but against this pro-
ceeding I protested, as by such an operation we must have greatly
diminished its quantity.

When the division was accomplished, we found that a day’s
allowance for the two was not a great deal more than what a
table-spoon might hold. Each separate portion we immediately
rolled up in the bit of silk prepared for it, and joining them

[ 47 ]

altogether into a small package, I committed them, with solemn
injunctions of fidelity, to the custody of Toby. For the remainder
of that day we resolved to fast, as we had been fortified by a
breakfast in the morning; and now starting again to our feet,
we looked about us for a shelter during the night, which, from
the appearance of the heavens, promised to be a dark and tem-
pestuous one.

There was no place near us which would in any way answer
our purpose; so turning our backs upon Nukuheva, we com-
menced exploring the unknown regions which lay upon the
other side of the mountain.

In this direction, as far as our vision extended, not a sign of
life, nor anything that denoted even the transient residence of
man, could be seen. The whole landscape seemed one unbroken
solitude, the interior of the island having apparently been un-
tenanted since the morning of the creation; and as we advanced
through this wilderness, our voices sounded strangely in our
ears, as though human accents had never before disturbed the
fearful silence of the place, interrupted only by the low mur-
murings of distant waterfalls.

Our disappointment, however, in not finding the various
fruits with which we had intended to regale ourselves during
our stay in these wilds, was a good deal lessened by the consi-
deration that from this very circumstance we should be much
less exposed to a casual meeting with the savage tribes about us,
who we knew always dwelt beneath the shadows of those trees
which supplied them with food.

We wandered along, casting eager glances into every bush we
passed, until just as we had succeeded in mounting one of the
many ridges that intersected the ground, I saw in the grass
before me something like an indistinctly traced footpath, which
appeared to lead along the top of the ridge, and to descend with
it into a deep ravine about half a mile in advance of us.

Robinson Crusoe could not have been more startled at the
footprint in the sand than we were at this unwelcome discovery.
My first impulse was to make as rapid a retreat as possible, and
bend our steps in some other direction; but our curiosity to see
whither this path might lead, prompted us to pursue it. So on
we went, the track becoming more and more visible the farther

[ 48 ]

we proceeded, until it conducted us to the verge of the ravine,
where it abruptly terminated.

“And so,” said Toby, peering down into the chasm, “every
one that travels this path takes a jump here, eh?”

“Not so,” said I, “for I think they might manage to descend
without it; what say you,—shall we attempt the feat?”

“And what, in the name of caves and coal-holes, do you expect
to find at the bottom of that gulf but a broken neck—why it
looks blacker than our ship’s hold, and the roar of those water-
falls down there would batter one’s brains to pieces.”

“Oh, no, Toby,” I exclaimed, laughing; “but there’s some-
thing to be seen here, that’s plain, or there would have been no
path, and I am resolved to find out what it is.”

“ I will tell you what, my pleasant fellow,” rejoined Toby
quickly, “if you are going to pry into everything you meet
with here that excites your curiosity, you will marvellously soon
get knocked on the head; to a dead certainty you will come
bang upon a party of these savages in the midst of your discovery-
makings, and I doubt whether such an event would particularly
delight you. Just take my advice for once, and let us ’bout
ship and steer in some other direction; besides, it’s getting late,
and we ought to be mooring ourselves for the night.”

“That is just the thing I have been driving at,” replied I;
“and I am thinking that this ravine will exactly answer our
purpose, for it is roomy, secluded, well watered, and may shelter
us from the weather.”

“Aye, and from sleep too, and by the same token will give us
sore throats and rheumatisms into the bargain,” cried Toby,
with evident dislike at the idea.

“Oh, very well then, my lad,” said I, “since you will not
accompany me, here I go alone. You will see me in the morn-
ing;” and advancing to the edge of the cliff upon which we had
been standing, I proceeded to lower myself down by the tangled
roots which clustered about all the crevices of the rock. As I
had anticipated, Toby, in spite of his previous remonstrances,
followed my example, and dropping himself with the activity of
a squirrel from point to point, he quickly outstripped me, and
effected a landing at the bottom before I had accomplished two-
thirds of the descent.

[ 49 ]

The sight that now greeted us was one that will ever be
vividly impressed upon my mind. Five foaming streams, rushing
through as many gorges, and swelled and turbid by the recent
rains, united together in one mad plunge of nearly eighty feet,
and fell with wild uproar into a deep black pool scooped out of
the gloomy-looking rocks that lay piled around, and thence in
one collected body dashed down a narrow sloping channel which
seemed to penetrate into the very bowels of the earth. Overhead,
vast roots of trees hung down from the sides of the ravine drip-
ping with moisture, and trembling with the concussions produced
by the fall. It was now sunset, and the feeble uncertain light
that found its way into these caverns and woody depths heightened
their strange appearance, and reminded us that in a short time
we should find ourselves in utter darkness.

As soon as I had satisfied my curiosity by gazing at this scene,
I fell to wondering how it was that what we had taken for a
path should have conducted us to so singular a place, and began
to suspect that after all I might have been deceived in supposing
it to have been a track formed by the islanders. This was
rather an agreeable reflection than otherwise, for it dimiuished
our dread of accidentally meeting with any of them, and I came
to the conclusion that perhaps we could not have selected a more
secure hiding-place than this very spot we had so accidentally
hit upon. Toby agreed with me in this view of the matter, and
we immediately began gathering together the limbs of trees
which lay scattered about, with the view of constructing a tem-
porary hut for the night. This we were obliged to build close
to the foot of the cataract, for the current of water extended
very nearly to the sides of the gorge. The few moments of light
that remained we employed in covering our hut with a species of
broad-bladed grass that grew in every fissure of the ravine. Our
hut, if it deserved to be called one, consisted of six or eight of the
straightest branches we could find laid obliquely against the steep
wall of rock, with their lower ends within a foot of the stream.
Into the space thus covered over we managed to crawl, and dis-
pose our wearied bodies as best we could.

Shall I ever forget that horrid night? As for poor Toby, I
could scarcely get a word out of him. It would have been some
consolation to have heard his voice, but he lay shivering the

[ 50 ]

live-long night like a man afflicted with the palsy, with his knees
drawn up to his head, while his back was supported against the
dripping side of the rock. During this wretched night there
seemed nothing wanting to complete the perfect misery of our
condition. The rain descended in such torrents that our poor
shelter proved a mere mockery. In vain did I try to elude the
incessant streams that poured upon me; by protecting one part
I only exposed another, and the water was continually finding
some new opening through which to drench us.

I have had many a ducking in the course of my life, and in
general care little about; but the accumulated horrors of that
night, the deathlike coldness of the place, the appalling dark-
ness and the dismal sense of our forlorn condition, almost un-
manned me.

It will not be doubted that the next morning we were early
risers, and as soon as I could catch the faintest glimpse of any-
thing like daylight I shook my companion by the arm, and told
him it was sunrise. Poor Toby lifted up his head, and after
a moment’s pause said, in a husky voice, “Then, shipmate, my
toplights have gone out, for it appears darker now with my
eyes open than it did when they were shut.”

“Nonsense!” exclaimed I; “you are not awake yet.”

“Awake!” roared Toby in a rage, “awake! You mean to
insinuate I’ve been asleep, do you? It is an insult to a man
to suppose he could sleep in such an infernal place as this.”

By the time I had apologized to my friend for having mis-
construed his silence, it had become somewhat more light, and
we crawled out of our lair. The rain had ceased, but everything
around us was dripping with moisture. We stripped off our
saturated garments, and wrung them as dry as we could. We
contrived to make the blood circulate in our benumbed limbs by
rubbing them vigorously with our hands; and after performing
our ablutions in the stream, and putting on our still wet clothes,
we began to think it advisable to break our long fast, it being
now twenty-four hours since we had tasted food.

Accordingly our day’s ration was brought out, and seating
ourselves on a detached fragment of rock, we proceeded to dis-
cuss it. First we divided it into two equal portions, and care-
fully rolling one of them up for our evening’s repast, divided

[ 51 ]

the remainder again as equally as possible, and then drew lots
for the first choice. I could have placed the morsel that fell to
my share upon the tip of my finger; but notwithstanding this I
took care that it should be full ten minutes before I had swal-
lowed the last crumb. What a true saying it is that “appetite
furnishes the best sauce.” There was a flavour and a relish to
this small particle of food that under other circumstances it
would have been impossible for the most delicate viands to have
imparted. A copious draught of the pure water which flowed
at our feet served to complete the meal, and after it we rose sen-
sibly refreshed, and prepared for whatever might befall us.

We now carefully examined the chasm in which we had
passed the night. We crossed the stream, and gaining the
farther side of the pool I have mentioned, discovered proofs
that the spot must have been visited by some one but a short
time previous to our arrival. Further observation convinced us
that it had been regularly frequented, and, as we afterwards con-
jectured from particular indications, for the purpose of obtaining
a certain root, from which the natives obtain a kind of oint-
ment.

These discoveries immediately determined us to abandon a
place which had presented no inducement for us to remain,
except the promise of security; and as we looked about us for
the means of ascending again into the upper regions, we at last
found a practicable part of the rock, and half an hour’s toil car-
ried us to the summit of the same cliff from which the preceding
evening we had descended.

I now proposed to Toby that instead of rambling about the
island, exposing ourselves to discovery at every turn, we should
select some place as our fixed abode for as long a period as our
food should hold out, build ourselves a comfortable hut, and
be as prudent and circumspect as possible. To all this my
companion assented, and we at once set about carrying the plan
into execution.

With this view, after exploring without success a little glen
near us, we crossed several of the ridges of which I have before
spoken; and about noon found ourselves ascending a long and
gradually rising slope, but still without having discovered any
place adapted to our purpose. Low and heavy clouds betokened

[ 52 ]

an approaching storm, and we hurried on to gain a covert in a
clump of thick bushes which appeared to terminate the long
ascent. We threw ourselves under the lee of these bushes, and
pulling up the long grass that grew around, covered ourselves
completely with it, and awaited the shower.

But it did not come as soon as we had expected, and before
many minutes my companion was fast asleep, and I was rapidly
falling into the same state of happy forgetfulness. Just at this
juncture, however, down came the rain with a violence that put
all thoughts of slumber to flight. Although in some measure
sheltered, our clothes soon became as wet as ever: this, after all
the trouble we had taken to dry them, was provoking enough:
but there was no help for it; and I recommend all adventurous
youths who abandon vessels in romantic islands during the rainy
season to provide themselves with umbrellas.

After an hour or so the shower passed away. My companion
slept through it all, or at least appeared so to do; and now that
it was over I had not the heart to awaken him. As I lay on
my back completely shrouded with verdure, the leafy branches
drooping over me, and my limbs buried in grass, I could not
avoid comparing our situation with that of the interesting babes
in the wood. Poor little sufferers!—no wonder their constitutions
broke down under the hardships to which they were exposed.

During the hour or two spent under the shelter of these
bushes, I began to feel symptoms which I at once attributed to
the exposure of the preceding night. Cold shiverings and a
burning fever succeeded one another at intervals, while one of
my legs was swelled to such a degree, and pained me so acutely,
that I half suspected I had been bitten by some venomous
reptile, the congenial inhabitant of the chasm from which we
had lately emerged. I may here remark by the way—what I
subsequently learned—that all the islands of Polynesia enjoy the
reputation, in common with the Hibernian isle, of being free
from the presence of any vipers; though whether Saint Patrick
ever visited them, is a question I shall not attempt to decide.

As the feverish sensation increased upon me, I tossed about,
still unwilling to disturb my slumbering companion, from whose
side I removed two or three yards. I chanced to push aside a
branch, and by so doing suddenly disclosed to my view a scene

[ 53 ]

which even now I can recall with all the vividness of the first
impression. Had a glimpse of the gardens of Paradise been
revealed to me I could scarcely have been more ravished with
the sight.

From the spot where I lay transfixed with surprise and delight,
I looked straight down into the bosom of a valley, which swept
away in long wavy undulations to the blue waters in the distance.
Midway towards the sea, and peering here and there amidst the
foliage, might be seen the palmetto-thatched houses of its inha-
bitants glistening in the sun that had bleached them to a dazzling
whiteness. The vale was more than three leagues in length, and
about a mile across at its greatest width.

On either side it appeared hemmed in by steep and green ac-
clivities, which, uniting near the spot where I lay, formed an
abrupt and semicircular termination of grassy cliffs and preci-
pices hundreds of feet in height, over which flowed numberless
small cascades. But the crowning beauty of the prospect was its
universal verdure; and in this indeed consists, I believe, the pecu-
liar charm of every Polynesian landscape. Everywhere below me,
from the base of the precipice upon whose very verge I had been
unconsciously reposing, the surface of the vale presented a mass
of foliage, spread with such rich profusion that it was impossible
to determine of what description of trees it consisted.

But perhaps there was nothing about the scenery I beheld
more impressive than those silent cascades, whose slender threads
of water, after leaping down the steep cliffs, were lost amidst the
rich herbage of the valley.

Over all the landscape there reigned the most hushed repose,
which I almost feared to break lest, like the enchanted gardens
in the fairy tale, a single syllable might dissolve the spell. For
a long time, forgetful alike of my own situation, and the vicinity
of my still slumbering companion, I remained gazing around
me, hardly able to comprehend by what means I had thus sud-
denly been made a spectator of such a scene.

[ 54 ]

CHAPTER VIII.

The Important Question, Typee or Happar?—A Wild-Goose Chase—My
Sufferings—Disheartening Situation—A Night in a Ravine—Morning
Meal—Happy Idea of Toby—Journey towards the Valley.

Recovering from my astonishment at the beautiful scene before
me, I quickly awakened Toby, and informed him of the dis-
covery I had made. Together we now repaired to the border
of the precipice, and my companion’s admiration was equal to
my own. A little reflection, however, abated our surprise at
coming so unexpectedly upon this valley, since the large vales
of Happar and Typee, lying upon this side of Nukuheva, and
extending a considerable distance from the sea towards the in-
terior, must necessarily terminate somewhere about this point.

The question now was as to which of those two places we were
looking down upon. Toby insisted that it was the abode of the
Happars, and I that it was tenanted by their enemies the fero-
cious Typees. To be sure I was not entirely convinced by my
own arguments, but Toby’s proposition to descend at once into
the valley, and partake of the hospitality of its inmates, seemed
to me to be risking so much upon the strength of a mere suppo-
sition, that I resolved to oppose it until we had more evidence
to proceed upon.

The point was one of vital importance, as the natives of
Happar were not only at peace with Nukuheva, but cultivated
with its inhabitants the most friendly relations, and enjoyed
beside a reputation for gentleness and humanity which led us to
expect from them, if not a cordial reception, at least a shelter
during the short period we should remain in their territory.

On the other hand, the very name of Typee struck a panic
into my heart which I did not attempt to disguise. The
thought of voluntarily throwing ourselves into the hands of
these cruel savages, seemed to me an act of mere madness; and

[ 55 ]

almost equally so the idea of venturing into the valley, uncertain
by which of these two tribes it was inhabited. That the vale at
our feet was tenanted by one of them, was a point that appeared
to us past all doubt, since we knew that they resided in this
quarter, although our information did not enlighten us further.

My companion, however, incapable of resisting the tempting
prospect which the place held out of an abundant supply of food
and other means of enjoyment, still clung to his own inconsi-
derate view of the subject, nor could all my reasoning shake it.
When I reminded him that it was impossible for either of us to
know anything with certainty, and when I dwelt upon the hor-
rible fate we should encounter were we rashly to descend into
the valley, and discover too late the error we had committed,
he replied by detailing all the evils of our present condition,
and the sufferings we must undergo should we continue to remain
where we then were.

Anxious to draw him away from the subject, if possible—for
I saw that it would be in vain to attempt changing his mind—I
directed his attention to a long bright unwooded tract of land
which, sweeping down from the elevations in the interior, de-
scended into the valley before us. I then suggested to him that
beyond this ridge might lie a capacious and untenanted valley,
abounding with all manner of delicious fruits; for I had heard
that there were several such upon the island, and proposed that
we should endeavour to reach it, and if we found our expectations
realised we should at once take refuge in it and remain there as
long as we pleased.

He acquiesced in the suggestion; and we immediately, there-
fore, began surveying the country lying before us, with a view
of determining upon the best route for us to pursue; but it pre-
sented little choice, the whole interval being broken into steep
ridges, divided by dark ravines, extending in parallel lines at
right angles to our direct course. All these we would be
obliged to cross before we could hope to arrive at our desti-
nation.

A weary journey! But we decided to undertake it, though,
for my own part, I felt little prepared to encounter its fatigues,
shivering and burning by turns with the ague and fever; for I
know not how else to describe the alternate sensations I experi-

[ 56 ]

enced, and suffering not a little from the lameness which afflicted
me. Added to this was the faintness consequent on our meagre
diet—a calamity in which Toby participated to the same extent
as myself.

These circumstances, however, only augmented my anxiety to
reach a place which promised us plenty and repose, before I
should be reduced to a state which would render me altogether
unable to perform the journey. Accordingly we now commenced
it by descending the almost perpendicular side of a steep and
narrow gorge, bristling with a thick growth of reeds. Here
there was but one mode for us to adopt. We seated ourselves
upon the ground, and guided our descent by catching at the
canes in our path. The velocity with which we thus slid down
the side of the ravine soon brought us to a point where we could
use our feet, and in a short time we arrived at the edge of the
torrent, which rolled impetuously along the bed of the chasm.

After taking a refreshing draught from the water of the
stream, we addressed ourselves to a much more difficult under-
taking than the last. Every foot of our late descent had to be
regained in ascending the opposite side of the gorge—an opera-
tion rendered the less agreeable from the consideration that in
these perpendicular episodes we did not progress an hundred
yards on our journey. But, ungrateful as the task was, we set
about it with exemplary patience, and after a snail-like progress
of an hour or more, had scaled perhaps one half of the distance,
when the fever which had left me for awhile returned with such
violence, and accompanied by so raging a thirst, that it required
all the entreaties of Toby to prevent me from losing all the
fruits of my late exertion, by precipitating myself madly down
the cliffs we had just climbed, in quest of the water which flowed
so temptingly at their base. At the moment all my hopes and
fears appeared to be merged in this one desire, careless of the
consequences that might result from its gratification. I am
aware of no feeling, either of pleasure or of pain, that so com-
pletely deprives one of all power to resist its impulses, as this
same raging thirst.

Toby earnestly conjured me to continue the ascent, assuring
me that a little more exertion would bring us to the summit, and
that then in less than five minutes we should find ourselves at the

[ 57 ]

brink of the stream, which must necessarily flow on the other
side of the ridge.

“Do not,” he exclaimed, “turn back, now that we have pro-
ceeded thus far; for I tell you that neither of us will have the
courage to repeat the attempt, if once more we find ourselves
looking up to where we now are from the bottom of these
rocks!”

I was not yet so perfectly beside myself as to be heedless of
these representations, and therefore toiled on, ineffectually en-
deavouring to appease the thirst which consumed me, by thinking
that in a short time I should be able to gratify it to my heart’s
content.

At last we gained the top of the second elevation, the loftiest
of those I have described as extending in parallel lines between
us and the valley we desired to reach. It commanded a view of
the whole intervening distance; and, discouraged as I was by
other circumstances, this prospect plunged me into the very
depths of despair. Nothing but dark and fearful chasms, sepa-
rated by sharp crested and perpendicular ridges as far as the eye
could reach. Could we have stepped from summit to summit of
these steep but narrow elevations we could easily have accom-
plished the distance; but we must penetrate to the bottom of
every yawning gulf, and scale in succession every one of the
eminences before us. Even Toby, although not suffering as I
did, was not proof against the disheartening influences of the
sight.

But we did not long stand to contemplate it, impatient as I
was to reach the waters of the torrent which flowed beneath us.
With an insensibility to danger which I cannot call to mind
without shuddering, we threw ourselves down the depths of the
ravine, startling its savage solitudes with the echoes produced
by the falling fragments of rock we every moment dislodged
from their places, careless of the insecurity of our footing, and
reckless whether the slight roots and twigs we clutched at sus-
tained us for the while, or treacherously yielded to our grasp.
For my own part, I scarcely knew whether I was helplessly fall-
ing from the heights above, or whether the fearful rapidity with
which I descended was an act of my own volition.

In a few minutes we reached the foot of the gorge, and kneel-

[ 58 ]

ing upon a small ledge of dripping rocks, I bent over to the
stream. What a delicious sensation was I now to experience!
I paused for a second to concentrate all my capabilities of en-
joyment, and then immerged my lips in the clear element before
me. Had the apples of Sodom turned to ashes in my mouth, I
could not have felt a more startling revulsion. A single drop of
the cold fluid seemed to freeze every drop of blood in my body;
the fever that had been burning in my veins gave place on the
instant to death-like chills, which shook me one after another
like so many shocks of electricity, while the perspiration pro-
duced by my late violent exertions congealed in icy beads upon
my forehead. My thirst was gone, and I fairly loathed the
water. Starting to my feet, the sight of those dank rocks, oozing
forth moisture at every crevice, and the dark stream shooting
along its dismal channel, sent fresh chills through my shivering
frame, and I felt as uncontrollable a desire to climb up towards
the genial sunlight as I before had to descend the ravine.

After two hours’ perilous exertions we stood upon the summit
of another ridge, and it was with difficulty I could bring myself
to believe that we had ever penetrated the black and yawning
chasm which then gaped at our feet. Again we gazed upon
the prospect which the height commanded, but it was just
as depressing as the one which had before met our eyes. I
now felt that in our present situation it was in vain for us to
think of ever overcoming the obstacles in our way, and I gave
up all thoughts of reaching the vale which lay beyond this series
of impediments; while at the same time I could not devise any
scheme to extricate ourselves from the difficulties in which we
were involved.

The remotest idea of returning to Nukuheva, unless assured of
our vessel’s departure, never once entered my mind, and indeed
it was questionable whether we could have succeeded in reaching
it, divided as we were from the bay by a distance we could not
compute, and perplexed too in our remembrance of localities by
our recent wanderings. Besides, it was unendurable the thought
of retracing our steps and rendering all our painful exertions of
no avail.

There is scarcely anything when a man is in difficulties that
he is more disposed to look upon with abhorrence than a right-

[ 59 ]

about retrograde movement—a systematic going over of the
already trodden ground; and especially if he has a love of
adventure, such a course appears indescribably repulsive, so long
as there remains the least hope to be derived from braving
untried difficulties.

It was this feeling that prompted us to descend the opposite
side of the elevation we had just scaled, although with what
definite object in view it would have been impossible for either
of us to tell.

Without exchanging a syllable upon the subject, Toby and
myself simultaneously renounced the design which had lured us
thus far—perceiving in each other’s countenances that despond-
ing expression which speaks more eloquently than words.

Together we stood towards the close of this weary day in the
cavity of the third gorge we had entered, wholly incapacitated
for any further exertion, until restored to some degree of strength
by food and repose.

We seated ourselves upon the least uncomfortable spot we
could select, and Toby produced from the bosom of his frock
the sacred package. In silence we partook of the small morsel
of refreshment that had been left from the morning’s repast, and
without once proposing to violate the sanctity of our engage-
ment with respect to the remainder, we rose to our feet, and
proceeded to construct some sort of shelter under which we might
obtain the sleep we so greatly needed.

Fortunately the spot was better adapted to our purpose than
the one in which we had passed the last wretched night. We
cleared away the tall reeds from a small but almost level bit of
ground, and twisted them into a low basket-like hut, which we
covered with a profusion of long thick leaves, gathered from a
tree near at hand. We disposed them thickly all around,
reserving only a slight opening that barely permitted us to crawl
under the shelter we had thus obtained.

These deep recesses, though protected from the winds that
assail the summits of their lofty sides, are damp and chill to a
degree that one would hardly anticipate in such a climate; and
being unprovided with anything but our woollen frocks and thin
duck trousers to resist the cold of the place, we were the more
solicitous to render our habitation for the night as comfortable

[ 60 ]

as we could. Accordingly, in addition to what we had already
done, we plucked down all the leaves within our reach and threw
them in a heap over our little hut, into which we now crept,
raking after us a reserved supply to form our couch.

That night nothing but the pain I suffered prevented me from
sleeping most refreshingly. As it was, I caught two or three
naps, while Toby slept away at my side as soundly as though he
had been sandwiched between two Holland sheets. Luckily it
did not rain, and we were preserved from the misery which a
heavy shower would have occasioned us.

In the morning I was awakened by the sonorous voice of my
companion ringing in my ears and bidding me rise. I crawled
out from our heap of leaves, and was astonished at the change
which a good night’s rest had wrought in his appearance. He
was as blithe and joyous as a young bird, and was staying the
keenness of his morning’s appetite by chewing the soft bark of a
delicate branch he held in his hand, and he recommended the
like to me as an admirable antidote against the gnawings of
hunger.

For my own part, though feeling materially better than I had
done the preceding evening, I could not look at the limb that
had pained me so violently at intervals during the last twenty-
four hours, without experiencing a sense of alarm that I strove
in vain to shake off. Unwilling to disturb the flow of my com-
rade’s spirits, I managed to stifle the complaints to which I might
otherwise have given vent, and calling upon him good-humouredly
to speed our banquet, I prepared myself for it by washing in the
stream. This operation concluded, we swallowed, or rather
absorbed, by a peculiar kind of slow sucking process, our
respective morsels of nourishment, and then entered into a
discussion as to the steps it was necessary for us to pursue.

“What’s to be done now?” inquired I, rather dolefully.

“Descend into that same valley we descried yesterday,”
rejoined Toby, with a rapidity and loudness of utterance that
almost led me to suspect he had been slyly devouring the broad-
side of an ox in some of the adjoining thickets. “What else,”
he continued, “remains for us to do but that, to be sure? Why,
we shall both starve to a certainty if we remain here; and as to
your fears of those Typees—depend upon it, it is all nonsense.

[ 61 ]

“It is impossible that the inhabitants of such a lovely place
as we saw can be anything else but good fellows; and if you
choose rather to perish with hunger in one of these soppy
caverns, I for one prefer to chance a bold descent into the valley,
and risk the consequences.”

“And who is to pilot us thither,” I asked, “even if we should
decide upon the measure you propose? Are we to go again up
and down those precipices that we crossed yesterday, until we
reach the place we started from, and then take a flying leap from
the cliffs to the valley?”

“’Faith, I didn’t think of that,” said Toby; “sure enough,
both sides of the valley appeared to be hemmed in by precipices,
didn’t they?”

“Yes,” answered I, “as steep as the sides of a line-of-battle
ship, and about a hundred times as high.” My companion sank
his head upon his breast and remained for a while in deep
thought. Suddenly he sprang to his feet, while his eyes lighted
up with that gleam of intelligence that marks the presence of
some bright idea.

“Yes, yes,” he exclaimed; “the streams all run in the same
direction, and must necessarily flow into the valley before they
reach the sea; all we have to do is just to follow this stream,
and sooner or later it will lead us into the vale.”

“You are right, Toby,” I exclaimed, “you are right; it
must conduct us thither, and quickly too; for, see with what a
steep inclination the water descends.”

“It does, indeed,” burst forth my companion, overjoyed at
my verification of his theory, “it does indeed; why, it is as
plain as a pike-staff. Let us proceed at once; come, throw away
all those stupid ideas about the Typees, and hurrah for the lovely
valley of the Happars!”

“You will have it to be Happar, I see, my dear fellow; pray
Heaven you may not find yourself deceived,” observed I, with a
shake of my head.

“Amen to all that, and much more,” shouted Toby, rushing
forward; “but Happar it is, for nothing else than Happar can
it be. So glorious a valley—such forests of bread-fruit trees—
such groves of cocoa-nut—such wildernesses of guava-bushes!
Ah, shipmate! don’t linger behind: in the name of all delightful

[ 62 ]

fruits, I am dying to be at them. Come on, come on; shove
ahead, there’s a lively lad; never mind the rocks; kick them
out of the way, as I do; and to-morrow, old fellow, take my
word for it, we shall be in clover. Come on;” and so saying,
he dashed along the ravine like a madman, forgetting my in-
ability to keep up with him. In a few minutes, however, the
exuberance of his spirits abated, and, pausing for a while, he
permitted me to overtake him.

[ 63 ]

CHAPTER IX.

Perilous Passage of the Ravine—Descent into the Valley.

The fearless confidence of Toby was contagious, and I began to
adopt the Happar side of the question. I could not, however,
overcome a certain feeling of trepidation as we made our way
along these gloomy solitudes. Our progress, at first compara-
tively easy, became more and more difficult. The bed of the
watercourse was covered with fragments of broken rocks, which
had fallen from above, offering so many obstructions to the
course of the rapid stream, which vexed and fretted about them,
—forming at intervals small waterfalls, pouring over into deep
basins, or splashing wildly upon heaps of stones.

From the narrowness of the gorge, and the steepness of its
sides, there was no mode of advancing but by wading through
the water; stumbling every moment over the impediments which
lay hidden under its surface, or tripping against the huge roots
of trees. But the most annoying hindrance we encountered was
from a multitude of crooked boughs, which, shooting out almost
horizontally from the sides of the chasm, twisted themselves
together in fantastic masses almost to the surface of the stream,
affording us no passage except under the low arches which they
formed. Under these we were obliged to crawl on our hands
and feet, sliding along the oozy surface of the rocks, or slipping
into the deep pools, and with scarce light enough to guide us.
Occasionally we would strike our heads against some projecting
limb of a tree; and while imprudently engaged in rubbing the
injured part, would fall sprawling amongst flinty fragments,
cutting and bruising ourselves, whilst the unpitying waters flowed
over our prostrate bodies. Belzoni, worming himself through
the subterranean passages of the Egyptian catacombs, could not
have met with greater impediments than those we here encoun-

[ 64 ]

tered. But we struggled against them manfully, well knowing
our only hope lay in advancing.

Towards sunset we halted at a spot where we made prepara-
tions for passing the night. Here we constructed a hut, in much
the same way as before, and crawling into it, endeavoured to
forget our sufferings. My companion, I believe, slept pretty
soundly; but at daybreak, when we rolled out of our dwelling,
I felt nearly disqualified for any further efforts. Toby pre-
scribed as a remedy for my illness the contents of one of our
little silk packages, to be taken at once in a single dose. To
this species of medical treatment, however, I would by no means
accede, much as he insisted upon it; and so we partook of our
usual morsel, and silently resumed our journey. It was now the
fourth day since we left Nukuheva, and the gnawings of hunger
became painfully acute. We were fain to pacify them by chew-
ing the tender bark of roots and twigs, which, if they did not
afford us nourishment, were at least sweet and pleasant to the
taste.

Our progress along the steep watercourse was necessarily slow,
and by noon we had not advanced more than a mile. It was
somewhere near this part of the day that the noise of falling
waters, which we had faintly caught in the early morning,
became more distinct; and it was not long before we were
arrested by a rocky precipice of nearly a hundred feet in depth,
that extended all across the channel, and over which the wild
stream poured in an unbroken leap. On either hand the walls
of the ravine presented their overhanging sides both above and
below the fall, affording no means whatever of avoiding the
cataract by taking a circuit round it.

“What’s to be done now, Toby?” said I.

“Why,” rejoined he, “as we cannot retreat, I suppose we
must keep shoving along.”

“Very true, my dear Toby; but how do you purpose accom-
plishing that desirable object?”

“By jumping from the top of the fall, if there be no other
way,” unhesitatingly replied my companion: “it will be much
the quickest way of descent; but as you are not quite as active
as I am, we will try some other way.”

And, so saying, he crept cautiously along and peered over

[ 65 ]

into the abyss, while I remained wondering by what possible
means we could overcome this apparently insuperable obstruction.
As soon as my companion had completed his survey, I eagerly
inquired the result.

“The result of my observations you wish to know, do you?”
began Toby, deliberately, with one of his odd looks: “well, my
lad, the result of my observations is very quickly imparted. It
is at present uncertain which of our two necks will have the
honour to be broken first; but about a hundred to one would be
a fair bet in favour of the man who takes the first jump.”

“Then it is an impossible thing, is it?” inquired I, gloomily.

“No, shipmate; on the contrary, it is the easiest thing in life:
the only awkward point is the sort of usage which our unhappy
limbs may receive when we arrive at the bottom, and what sort
of travelling trim we shall be in afterwards. But follow me now,
and I will show you the only chance we have.

With this he conducted me to the verge of the cataract, and
pointed along the side of the ravine to a number of curious
looking roots, some three or four inches in thickness, and
several feet long, which after twisting among the fissures of the
rock, shot perpendicularly from it and ran tapering to a point
in the air, hanging over the gulf like so many dark icicles.
They covered nearly the entire surface of one side of the gorge,
the lowest of them reaching even to the water. Many were
moss-grown and decayed, with their extremities snapped short
off, and those in the immediate vicinity of the fall were slippery
with moisture.

Toby’s scheme, and it was a desperate one, was to intrust
ourselves to these treacherous-looking roots, and by slipping
down from one to another to gain the bottom.

“Are you ready to venture it?” asked Toby, looking at me
earnestly, but without saying a word as to the practicability of
the plan.

“I am,” was my reply; for I saw it was our only resource if
we wished to advance, and as for retreating, all thoughts of that
sort had been long abandoned.

After I had signified my assent, Toby, without uttering a
single word, crawled along the dripping ledge until he gained a
point from whence he could just reach one of the largest of the

[ 66 ]

pendant roots; he shook it—it quivered in his grasp, and when
he let it go it twanged in the air like a strong wire sharply
struck. Satisfied by his scrutiny, my light-limbed companion
swung himself nimbly upon it, and twisting his legs round it in
sailor fashion, slipped down eight or ten feet, where his weight
gave it a motion not unlike that of a pendulum. He could not
venture to descend any further; so holding on with one hand,
he with the other shook one by one all the slender roots around
him, and at last, finding one which he thought trustworthy,
shifted himself to it and continued his downward progress.

So far so well; but I could not avoid comparing my heavier
frame and disabled condition with his light figure and remark-
able activity; but there was no help for it, and in less than a
minute’s time I was swinging directly over his head. As soon
as his upturned eyes caught a glimpse of me, he exclaimed in
his usual dry tone, for the danger did not seem to daunt him in
the least, “Mate, do me the kindness not to fall until I get
out of your way;” and then swinging himself more on one side,
he continued his descent. In the mean time I cautiously trans-
ferred myself from the limb down which I had been slipping to
a couple of others that were near it, deeming two strings to my
bow better than one, and taking care to test their strength before
I trusted my weight to them.

On arriving towards the end of the second stage in this ver-
tical journey, and shaking the long roots which were round me,
to my consternation they snapped off one after another like so
many pipe stems, and fell in fragments against the side of the
gulf, splashing at last into the waters beneath.

As one after another the treacherous roots yielded to my grasp,
and fell into the torrent, my heart sunk within me. The
branches on which I was suspended over the yawning chasm
swang to and fro in the air, and I expected them every moment
to snap in twain. Appalled at the dreadful fate that menaced
me, I clutched frantically at the only large root which remained
near me, but in vain; I could not reach it, though my fingers
were within a few inches of it. Again and again I tried to
reach it, until at length, maddened with the thought of my
situation, I swayed myself violently by striking my foot against
the side of the rock, and at the instant that I approached the

[ 67 ]

large root caught desperately at it, and transferred myself to it.
It vibrated violently under the sudden weight, but fortunately
did not give way.

My brain grew dizzy with the idea of the frightful risk I had
just run, and I involuntarily closed my eyes to shut out the
view of the depth beneath me. For the instant I was safe, and
I uttered a devout ejaculation of thanksgiving for my escape.

“Pretty well done,” shouted Toby underneath me; “you are
nimbler than I thought you to be—hopping about up there
from root to root like any young squirrel. As soon as you have
diverted yourself sufficiently, I would advise you to proceed.”

“Aye aye, Toby, all in good time: two or three more such
famous roots as this, and I shall be with you.”

The residue of my downward progress was comparatively easy;
the roots were in greater abundance, and in one or two places
jutting out points of rock assisted me greatly. In a few moments
I was standing by the side of my companion.

Substituting a stout stick for the one I had thrown aside at
the top of the precipice, we now continued our course along the
bed of the ravine. Soon we were saluted by a sound in advance,
that grew by degrees louder and louder, as the noise of the
cataract we were leaving behind gradually died on our ears.

“Another precipice for us, Toby.”

“Very good; we can descend them, you know—come on.”

Nothing indeed appeared to depress or intimidate this intrepid
fellow. Typees or Niagaras, he was as ready to engage one as
the other, and I could not avoid a thousand times congratulating
myself upon having such a companion in an enterprise like the
present.

After an hour’s painful progress, we reached the verge of
another fall, still loftier than the preceding, and flanked both
above and below with the same steep masses of rock, presenting,
however, here and there narrow irregular ledges, supporting a
shallow soil, on which grew a variety of bushes and trees, whose
bright verdure contrasted beautifully with the foamy waters that
flowed between them.

Toby, who invariably acted as pioneer, now proceeded to
reconnoitre. On his return, he reported that the shelves of rock
on our right would enable us to gain with little risk the bottom of

[ 68 ]

the cataract. Accordingly, leaving the bed of the stream at the
very point where it thundered down, we began crawling along
one of these sloping ledges until it carried us to within a few
feet of another that inclined downward at a still sharper angle,
and upon which, by assisting each other, we managed to alight
in safety. We warily crept along this, steadying ourselves by
the naked roots of the shrubs that clung to every fissure. As we
proceeded, the narrow path became still more contracted, ren-
dering it difficult for us to maintain our footing, until suddenly,
as we reached an angle of the wall of rock where we had ex-
pected it to widen, we perceived to our consternation that a yard
or two farther on it abruptly terminated at a place we could not
possibly hope to pass.

Toby as usual led the van, and in silence I waited to learn from
him how he proposed to extricate us from this new difficulty.

“Well, my boy,” I exclaimed, after the expiration of several
minutes, during which time my companion had not uttered a
word; “what’s to be done now?”

He replied in a tranquil tone, that probably the best thing we
could do in our present strait was to get out of it as soon as
possible.

“Yes, my dear Toby, but tell me how we are to get out of it.”

“Something in this sort of style,” he replied; and at the
same moment to my horror he slipped sideways off the rock, and
as I then thought, by good fortune merely alighted among the
spreading branches of a species of palm tree, that shooting its
hardy roots along a ledge below, curved its trunk upwards into
the air, and presented a thick mass of foliage about twenty feet
below the spot where we had thus suddenly been brought to a
stand still. I involuntarily held my breath, expecting to see the
form of my companion, after being sustained for a moment by
the branches of the tree, sink through their frail support, and
fall headlong to the bottom. To my surprise and joy, however,
he recovered himself, and disentangling his limbs from the frac-
tured branches, he peered out from his leafy bed, and shouted
lustily, “Come on, my hearty, there is no other alternative!”
and with this he ducked beneath the foliage, and slipping down
the trunk, stood in a moment at least fifty feet beneath me, upon
the broad shelf of rock from which sprung the tree he had
descended.

[ 69 ]

What would I not have given at that moment to have been
by his side! The feat he had just accomplished seemed little
less than miraculous, and I could hardly credit the evidence of
my senses when I saw the wide distance that a single daring act
had so suddenly placed between us.

Toby’s animating “come on!” again sounded in my ears,
and dreading to lose all confidence in myself if I remained me-
ditating upon the step, I once more gazed down to assure myself
of the relative bearing of the tree and my own position, and then
closing my eyes and uttering one comprehensive ejaculation of
prayer, I inclined myself over towards the abyss, and after one
breathless instant fell with a crash into the tree, the branches
snapping and crackling with my weight, as I sunk lower and
lower among them, until I was stopped by coming in contact
with a sturdy limb.

In a few moments I was standing at the foot of the tree, mani-
pulating myself all over with a view of ascertaining the extent
of the injuries I had received. To my surprise the only effects
of my feat were a few slight contusions too trifling to care about.
The rest of our descent was easily accomplished, and in half an
hour after regaining the ravine we had partaken of our evening
morsel, built our hut as usual, and crawled under its shelter.

The next morning, in spite of our debility and the agony of
hunger under which we were now suffering, though neither of
us confessed to the fact, we struggled along our dismal and still
difficult and dangerous path, cheered by the hope of soon catch-
ing a glimpse of the valley before us, and towards evening the
voice of a cataract which had for some time sounded like a low
deep bass to the music of the smaller waterfalls, broke upon our
ears in still louder tones, and assured us that we were approach-
ing its vicinity.

That evening we stood on the brink of a precipice, over which
the dark stream bounded in one final heap of full 300 feet. The
sheer descent terminated in the region we so long had sought.
On either side of the fall, two lofty and perpendicular bluffs
buttressed the sides of the enormous cliff, and projected into the
sea of verdure with which the valley waved, and a range of
similar projecting eminences stood disposed in a half circle about
the head of the vale. A thick canopy of traces hung over the

[ 70 ]

very verge of the fall, leaving an arched aperture for the passage
of the waters, which imparted a strange picturesqueness to the
scene.

The valley was now before us; but instead of being conducted
into its smiling bosom by the gradual descent of the deep water-
course we had thus far pursued, all our labours now appeared to
have been rendered futile by its abrupt termination. But, bitterly
disappointed, we did not entirely despair.

As it was now near sunset we determined to pass the night
where we were, and on the morrow, refreshed by sleep and
by eating at one meal all our stock of food, to accomplish a
descent into the valley, or perish in the attempt.

We laid ourselves down that night on a spot, the recollection
of which still makes me shudder. A small table of rock which
projected over the precipice on one side of the stream, and was
drenched by the spray of the fall, sustained a huge trunk of a
tree which must have been deposited there by some heavy freshet.
It lay obliquely, with one end resting on the rock and the other
supported by the side of the ravine. Against it we placed in a
sloping direction a number of the half decayed boughs that were
strewn about, and covering the whole with twigs and leaves,
awaited the morning’s light beneath such shelter as it afforded.

During the whole of this night the continual roaring of the
cataract—the dismal moaning of the gale through the trees—the
pattering of the rain, and the profound darkness, affected my
spirits to a degree which nothing had ever before produced. Wet,
half famished, and chilled to the heart with the dampness of the
place, and nearly wild with the pain I endured, I fairly cowered
down to the earth under this multiplication of hardships, and
abandoned myself to frightful anticipations of evil; and my
companion, whose spirit at last was a good deal broken, scarcely
uttered a word during the whole night.

At length the day dawned upon us, and rising from our mi-
serable pallet, we stretched our stiffened joints, and after eating
all that remained of our bread, prepared for the last stage of our
journey.

I will not recount every hair breadth escape, and every fearful
difficulty that occurred before we succeeded in reaching the
bosom of the valley. As I have already described similar scenes,

[ 71 ]

it will be sufficient to say that at length, after great toil and
great dangers, we both stood with no limbs broken at the head of
that magnificent vale which five days before had so suddenly
burst upon my sight, and almost beneath the shadows of
those very cliffs from whose summits we had gazed upon the
prospect.

[ 72 ]

CHAPTER X.

The Head of the Valley—Cautious Advance—A Path—Fruit—Discovery of
Two of the Natives—Their singular Conduct—Approach towards the
inhabited Parts of the Vale—Sensation produced by our Appearance—
Reception at the House of one of the Natives.

How to obtain the fruit which we felt convinced must grow near
at hand was our first thought.

Typee or Happar? A frightful death at the hands of the
fiercest of cannibals, or a kindly reception from a gentler race
of savages? Which? But it was too late now to discuss a
question which would so soon be answered.

The part of the valley in which we found ourselves appeared
to be altogether uninhabited. An almost impenetrable thicket
extended from side to side, without presenting a single plant
affording the nourishment we had confidently calculated upon;
and with this object, we followed the course of the stream,
casting quick glances as we proceeded into the thick jungles
on either hand.

My companion—to whose solicitations I had yielded in de-
scending into the valley—now that the step was taken, began to
manifest a degree of caution I had little expected from him. He
proposed that, in the event of our finding an adequate supply of
fruit, we should remain in this unfrequented portion of the coun-
try—where we should run little chance of being surprised by its
occupants, whoever they might be—until sufficiently recruited to
resume our journey; when laying in a store of food equal to our
wants, we might easily regain the bay of Nukuheva, after the
lapse of a sufficient interval to ensure the departure of our vessel.

I objected strongly to this proposition, plausible as it was, as
the difficulties of the route would be almost insurmountable, un-
acquainted as we were with the general bearings of the country,
and I reminded my companion of the hardships which we had

[ 73 ]

already encountered in our uncertain wanderings; in a word, I
said that since we had deemed it advisable to enter the valley,
we ought manfully to face the consequences, whatever they might
be; the more especially as I was convinced there was no alter-
native left us but to fall in with the natives at once, and boldly
risk the reception they might give us: and that as to myself, I
felt the necessity of rest and shelter, and that until I had ob-
tained them I should be wholly unable to encounter such suffer-
ings as we had lately passed through. To the justice of these
observations Toby somewhat reluctantly assented.

We were surprised that, after moving as far as we had along
the valley, we should still meet with the same impervious thickets;
and thinking that although the borders of the stream might be
lined for some distance with them, yet beyond there might be
more open ground, I requested Toby to keep a bright look-out
upon one side, while I did the same on the other, in order to
discover some opening in the bushes, and especially to watch for
the slightest appearance of a path or anything else that might
indicate the vicinity of the islanders.

What furtive and anxious glances we cast into those dim-look-
ing shades! With what apprehensions we proceeded, ignorant
at what moment we might be greeted by the javelin of some
ambushed savage! At last my companion paused, and directed
my attention to a narrow opening in the foliage. We struck
into it and it soon brought us by an indistinctly traced path to a
comparatively clear space, at the further end of which we de-
scried a number of the trees, the native name of which is “an-
nuee,” and which bear a most delicious fruit.

What a race! I hobbling over the ground like some decrepid
wretch, and Toby leaping forward like a greyhound. He
quickly cleared one of the trees on which there were two or
three of the fruit, but to our chagrin they proved to be much
decayed; the rinds partly opened by the birds, and their hearts
half devoured. However, we quickly despatched them, and no
ambrosia could have been more delicious.

We looked about us uncertain whither to direct our steps, since
the path we had so far followed appeared to be lost in the open
space around us. At last we resolved to enter a grove near at
hand, and had advanced a few rods when, just upon its skirts, I

[ 74 ]

picked up a slender bread-fruit shoot perfectly green, and with
the tender bark freshly stript from it. It was still slippery with
moisture, and appeared as if it had been but that moment thrown
aside. I said nothing, but merely held it up to Toby, who
started at this undeniable evidence of the vicinity of the savages.

The plot was now thickening.—A short distance further lay a
little faggot of the same shoots bound together with a strip of
bark. Could it have been thrown down by some solitary native
who, alarmed at seeing us, had hurried forward to carry the tidings
of our approach to his countrymen?—Typee or Happar?—But
it was too late to recede, so we moved on slowly, my companion
in advance casting eager glances under the trees on either side,
until all at once I saw him recoil as if stung by an adder.
Sinking on his knee, he waved me off with one hand, while with
the other he held aside some intervening leaves and gazed
intently at some object.

Disregarding his injunction, I quickly approached him and
caught a glimpse of two figures partly hidden by the dense
foliage; they were standing close together, and were perfectly
motionless. They must have previously perceived us, and with-
drawn into the depths of the wood to elude our observation.

My mind was at once made up. Dropping my staff, and
tearing open the package of things we had brought from the ship,
I unrolled the cotton cloth, and holding it in one hand plucked
with the other a twig from the bushes beside me, and telling
Toby to follow my example, I broke through the covert and
advanced, waving the branch in token of peace towards the
shrinking forms before me.

They were a boy and girl, slender and graceful, and com-
pletely naked, with the exception of a slight girdle of bark, from
which depended at opposite points two of the russet leaves of
the bread-fruit tree. An arm of the boy, half screened from
sight by her wild tresses, was thrown about the neck of the girl,
while with the other he held one of her hands in his; and thus
they stood together, their heads inclined forward, catching the
faint noise we made in our progress, and with one foot in advance,
as if half inclined to fly from our presence.

As we drew near their alarm evidently increased. Apprehen-
sive that they might fly from us altogether, I stopped short and

[ 75 ]

motioned them to advance and receive the gift I extended towards
them, but they would not; I then uttered a few words of their
language with which I was acquainted, scarcely expecting that
they would understand me, but to show that we had not dropped
from the clouds upon them. This appeared to give them a little
confidence, so I approached nearer, presenting the cloth with
one hand and holding the bough with the other, while they
slowly retreated. At last they suffered us to approach so near
to them that we were enabled to throw the cotton cloth across
their shoulders, giving them to understand that it was theirs, and
by a variety of gestures endeavouring to make them understand
that we entertained the highest possible regard for them.

The frightened pair now stood still, whilst we endeavoured to
make them comprehend the nature of our wants. In doing this
Toby went through with a complete series of pantomimic illus-
trations—opening his mouth from ear to ear, and thrusting his
fingers down his throat, gnashing his teeth and rolling his eyes
about, till I verily believe the poor creatures took us for a couple
of white cannibals who were about to make a meal of them.
When, however, they understood us, they showed no inclination
to relieve our wants. At this juncture it began to rain violently,
and we motioned them to lead us to some place of shelter. With
this request they appeared willing to comply, but nothing could
evince more strongly the apprehension with which they regarded
us, than the way in which, whilst walking before us, they kept
their eyes constantly turned back to watch every movement we
made, and even our very looks.

“Typee or Happar, Toby?” asked I as we walked after them.

“Of course Happar,” he replied with a show of confidence
which was intended to disguise his doubts.

“We shall soon know,” I exclaimed; and at the same mo-
ment I stepped forward towards our guides, and pronouncing
the two names interrogatively and pointing to the lowest part of
the valley, endeavoured to come to the point at once. They
repeated the words after me again and again, but without giving
any peculiar emphasis to either, so that I was completely at a
loss to understand them; for a couple of wilier young things
than we afterwards found them to have been on this particular
occasion never probably fell in any traveller’s way.

[ 76 ]

More and more curious to ascertain our fate, I now threw
together in the form of a question the words “Happar” and
“Mortarkee,” the latter being equivalent to the word “good.”
The two natives interchanged glances of peculiar meaning with
one another at this, and manifested no little surprise; but on
the repetition of the question, after some consultation together,
to the great joy of Toby, they answered in the affirmative. Toby
was now in ecstasies, especially as the young savages continued
to reiterate their answer with great energy, as though desirous
of impressing us with the idea that being among the Happars,
we ought to consider ourselves perfectly secure.

Although I had some lingering doubts, I feigned great delight
with Toby at this announcement, while my companion broke out
into a pantomimic abhorrence of Typee, and immeasurable love
for the particular valley in which we were; our guides all the
while gazing uneasily at one another as if at a loss to account
for our conduct.

They hurried on, and we followed them; until suddenly they
set up a strange halloo, which was answered from beyond the
grove through which we were passing, and the next moment we
entered upon some open ground, at the extremity of which we
descried a long, low hut, and in front of it were several young
girls. As soon as they perceived us they fled with wild screams
into the adjoining thickets, like so many startled fawns. A few
moments after the whole valley resounded with savage outcries,
and the natives came running towards us from every direction.

Had an army of invaders made an irruption into their terri-
tory they could not have evinced greater excitement. We were
soon completely encircled by a dense throng, and in their eager
desire to behold us they almost arrested our progress; an equal
number surrounding our youthful guides, who with amazing
volubility appeared to be detailing the circumstances which had
attended their meeting with us. Every item of intelligence ap-
peared to redouble the astonishment of the islanders, and they
gazed at us with inquiring looks.

At last we reached a large and handsome building of bamboos,
and were by signs told to enter it, the natives opening a lane for
us through which to pass; on entering without ceremony, we
threw our exhausted frames upon the mats that covered the floor.

[ 77 ]

In a moment the slight tenement was completely full of people,
whilst those who were unable to obtain admittance gazed at us
through its open cane-work.

It was now evening, and by the dim light we could just dis-
cern the savage countenances around us, gleaming with wild
curiosity and wonder; the naked forms and tattooed limbs of
brawny warriors, with here and there the slighter figures of
young girls, all engaged in a perfect storm of conversation, of
which we were of course the one only theme; whilst our recent
guides were fully occupied in answering the innumerable ques-
tions which every one put to them. Nothing can exceed the
fierce gesticulation of these people when animated in conver-
sation, and on this occasion they gave loose to all their natural
vivacity, shouting and dancing about in a manner that well-nigh
intimidated us.

Close to where we lay, squatting upon their haunches, were
some eight or ten noble-looking chiefs—for such they subsequently
proved to be—who, more reserved than the rest, regarded us
with a fixed and stern attention, which not a little discomposed
our equanimity. One of them in particular, who appeared to be
the highest in rank, placed himself directly facing me; looking
at me with a rigidity of aspect under which I absolutely quailed.
He never once opened his lips, but maintained his severe ex-
pression of countenance, without turning his face aside for a
single moment. Never before had I been subjected to so strange
and steady a glance; it revealed nothing of the mind of the
savage, but it appeared to be reading my own.

After undergoing this scrutiny till I grew absolutely nervous,
with a view of diverting it if possible, and conciliating the good
opinion of the warrior, I took some tobacco from the bosom of
my frock and offered it to him. He quietly rejected the proffered
gift, and, without speaking, motioned me to return it to its
place.

In my previous intercourse with the natives of Nukuheva and
Tior, I had found that the present of a small piece of tobacco
would have rendered any of them devoted to my service. Was
this act of the chief a token of his enmity? Typee or Happar?
I asked within myself. I started, for at the same moment this
identical question was asked by the strange being before me. I

[ 78 ]

turned to Toby; the flickering light of a native taper showed me
his countenance pale with trepidation at this fatal question. I
paused for a second, and I know not by what impulse it was that
I answered “Typee.” The piece of dusky statuary nodded in
approval, and then murmured “Mortarkee!” “Mortarkee,”
said I, without further hesitation—“Typee mortarkee.”

What a transition! The dark figures around us leaped to
their feet, clapped their hands in transport, and shouted again
and again the talismanic syllables, the utterance of which ap-
peared to have settled every thing.

When this commotion had a little subsided, the principal chief
squatted once more before me, and throwing himself into a sud-
den rage, poured forth a string of philippics, which I was at no
loss to understand, from the frequent recurrence of the word
Happar, as being directed against the natives of the adjoining
valley. In all these denunciations my companion and I ac-
quiesced, while we extolled the character of the warlike Typees.
To be sure our panegyrics were somewhat laconic, consisting in
the repetition of that name, united with the potent adjective
“mortarkee.” But this was sufficient, and served to conciliate
the good will of the natives, with whom our congeniality of sen-
timent on this point did more towards inspiring a friendly feeling
than anything else that could have happened.

At last the wrath of the chief evaporated, and in a few
moments he was as placid as ever. Laying his hand upon his
breast, he now gave me to understand that his name was
“Mehevi,” and that, in return, he wished me to communicate
my appellation. I hesitated for an instant, thinking that it
might be difficult for him to pronounce my real name, and then
with the most praiseworthy intentions intimated that I was
known as “Tom.” But I could not have made a worse selection;
the chief could not master it: “Tommo,” “Tomma,” “Tommee,”
every thing but plain “Tom.” As he persisted in garnishing the
word with an additional syllable, I compromised the matter with
him at the word “Tommo;” and by that name I went during
the entire period of my stay in the valley. The same proceeding
was gone through with Toby, whose mellifluous appellation was
more easily caught.

An exchange of names is equivalent to a ratification of good

[ 79 ]

will and amity among these simple people; and as we were aware
of this fact, we were delighted that it had taken place on the
present occasion.

Reclining upon our mats, we now held a kind of levee, giving
audience to successive troops of the natives, who introduced
themselves to us by pronouncing their respective names, and
retired in high good humour on receiving ours in return.
During this ceremony the greatest merriment prevailed, nearly
every announcement on the part of the islanders being followed
by a fresh sally of gaiety, which induced me to believe that some
of them at least were innocently diverting the company at our
expense, by bestowing upon themselves a string of absurd titles,
of the humour of which we were of course entirely ignorant.

All this occupied about an hour, when the throng having a
little diminished, I turned to Mehevi and gave him to understand
that we were in need of food and sleep. Immediately the atten-
tive chief addressed a few words to one of the crowd, who disap-
peared, and returned in a few moments with a calabash of “poee-
poee,” and two or three young cocoa-nuts stripped of their husks,
and with their shells partly broken. We both of us forthwith
placed one of these natural goblets to our lips, and drained it in
a moment of the refreshing draught it contained. The poee-poee
was then placed before us, and even famished as I was, I paused
to consider in what manner to convey it to my mouth.

This staple article of food among the Marquese islanders is
manufactured from the produce of the bread-fruit tree. It some-
what resembles in its plastic nature our bookbinders’ paste, is of
a yellow colour, and somewhat tart to the taste.

Such was the dish, the merits of which I was now eager to
discuss. I eyed it wistfully for a moment, and then unable any
longer to stand on ceremony, plunged my hand into the yielding
mass, and to the boisterous mirth of the natives drew it forth
laden with the poee-poee, which adhered in lengthy strings to
every finger. So stubborn was its consistency, that in conveying
my heavily-freighted hand to my mouth, the connecting links
almost raised the calabash from the mats on which it had been
placed. This display of awkwardness — in which, by-the-bye,
Toby kept me company—convulsed the bystanders with uncon-
trollable laughter.

[ 80 ]

As soon as their merriment had somewhat subsided, Mehevi,
motioning us to be attentive, dipped the fore finger of his right
hand in the dish, and giving it a rapid and scientific twirl, drew
it out coated smoothly with the preparation. With a second pe-
culiar flourish he prevented the poee-poee from dropping to the
ground as he raised it to his mouth, into which the finger was
inserted and drawn forth perfectly free from any adhesive matter.
This performance was evidently intended for our instruction; so
I again essayed the feat on the principles inculcated, but with
very ill success.

A starving man, however, little heeds conventional proprieties,
especially on a South-Sea Island, and accordingly Toby and I
partook of the dish after our own clumsy fashion, beplastering
our faces all over with the glutinous compound, and daubing our
hands nearly to the wrist. This kind of food is by no means
disagreeable to the palate of a European, though at first the mode
of eating it may be. For my own part, after the lapse of a few
days I became accustomed to its singular flavour, and grew
remarkably fond of it.

So much for the first course; several other dishes followed it,
some of which were positively delicious. We concluded our
banquet by tossing off the contents of two more young cocoa-
nuts, after which we regaled ourselves with the soothing fumes
of tobacco, inhaled from a quaintly carved pipe which passed
round the circle.

During the repast, the natives eyed us with intense curiosity,
observing our minutest motions, and appearing to discover
abundant matter for comment in the most trifling occurrence.
Their surprise mounted the highest, when we began to remove
our uncomfortable garments, which were saturated with rain.
They scanned the whiteness of our limbs, and seemed utterly un-
able to account for the contrast they presented to the swarthy
hue of our faces, embrowned from a six months’ exposure to the
scorching sun of the Line. They felt our skin, much in the
same way that a silk mercer would handle a remarkably fine
piece of satin; and some of them went so far in their investi-
gation as to apply the olfactory organ.

Their singular behaviour almost led me to imagine that they
never before had beheld a white man; but a few moments’ re-

[ 81 ]

flection convinced me that this could not have been the case;
and a more satisfactory reason for their conduct has since sug-
gested itself to my mind.

Deterred by the frightful stories related of its inhabitants,
ships never enter this bay, while their hostile relations with the
tribes in the adjoining valleys prevent the Typees from visiting
that section of the island where vessels occasionally lie. At long
intervals, however, some intrepid captain will touch on the skirts
of the bay, with two or three armed boats’ crews, and accom-
panied by an interpreter. The natives who live near the sea
descry the strangers long before they reach their waters, and
aware of the purpose for which they come, proclaim loudly the
news of their approach. By a species of vocal telegraph the
intelligence reaches the inmost recesses of the vale in an incon-
ceivably short space of time, drawing nearly its whole population
down to the beach laden with every variety of fruit. The inter-
preter, who is invariably a “tabooed Kannaka,”* leaps ashore
with the goods intended for barter, while the boats, with their
oars shipped, and every man on his thwart, lie just outside the
surf, heading off from the shore, in readiness at the first untoward
event to escape to the open sea. As soon as the traffic is con-
cluded, one of the boats pulls in under cover of the muskets of
the others, the fruit is quickly thrown into her, and the transient
visitors precipitately retire from what they justly consider so
dangerous a vicinity.

The intercourse occurring with Europeans being so restricted,
no wonder that the inhabitants of the valley manifested so much
curiosity with regard to us, appearing as we did among them
under such singular circumstances. I have no doubt that we
were the first white men who ever penetrated thus far back into
their territories, or at least the first who had ever descended from
the head of the vale. What had brought us thither must have

* The word “Kannaka” is at the present day universally used in the
South Seas by Europeans to designate the Islanders. In the various dialects
of the principal groups it is simply a sexual designation applied to the males;
but it is now used by the natives in their intercourse with foreigners in the
same sense in which the latter employ it.

A “Tabooed Kannaka” is an islander whose person has been made to a
certain extent sacred by the operation of a singular custom hereafter to be
explained.

[ 82 ]

appeared a complete mystery to them, and from our ignorance of
the language it was impossible for us to enlighten them. In
answer to inquiries which the eloquence of their gestures enabled
us to comprehend, all that we could reply was, that we had come
from Nukuheva, a place, be it remembered, with which they were
at open war. This intelligence appeared to affect them with the
most lively emotions. “Nukuheva motarkee?” they asked. Of
course we replied most energetically in the negative.

They then plied us with a thousand questions, of which we
could understand nothing more than that they had reference to
the recent movements of the French, against whom they seemed
to cherish the most fierce hatred. So eager were they to obtain
information on this point, that they still continued to propound
their queries long after we had shown that we were utterly un-
able to answer them. Occasionally we caught some indistinct
idea of their meaning, when we would endeavour by every
method in our power to communicate the desired intelligence.
At such times their gratification was boundless, and they would
redouble their efforts to make us comprehend them more per-
fectly. But all in vain; and in the end they looked at us
despairingly, as if we were the receptacles of invaluable informa-
tion; but how to come at it they knew not.

After a while the group around us gradually dispersed, and
we were left about midnight (as we conjectured) with those who
appeared to be permanent residents of the house. These indi-
viduals now provided us with fresh mats to lie upon, covered us
with several folds of tappa, and then extinguishing the tapers
that had been burning, threw themselves down beside us, and
after a little desultory conversation were soon sound asleep.

[ 83 ]

CHAPTER XI.

Midnight Reflections — Morning Visitors — A Warrior in Costume—A
Savage Æsculapius—Practice of the Healing Art—Body Servant—A
Dwelling-house of the Valley described—Portraits of its Inmates.

Various and conflicting were the thoughts which oppressed
me during the silent hours that followed the events related in the
preceding chapter. Toby, wearied with the fatigues of the day,
slumbered heavily by my side; but the pain under which I was
suffering effectually prevented my sleeping, and I remained dis-
tressingly alive to all the fearful circumstances of our present
situation. Was it possible that, after all our vicissitudes, we were
really in the terrible valley of Typee, and at the mercy of its
inmates, a fierce and unrelenting tribe of savages?

Typee or Happar? I shuddered when I reflected that there
was no longer any room for doubt; and that, beyond all hope of
escape, we were now placed in those very circumstances from
the bare thought of which I had recoiled with such abhorrence
but a few days before. What might not be our fearful destiny?
To be sure, as yet we had been treated with no violence; nay,
had been even kindly and hospitably entertained. But what
dependence could be placed upon the fickle passions which sway
the bosom of a savage? His inconstancy and treachery are pro-
verbial. Might it not be that beneath these fair appearances the
islanders covered some perfidious design, and that their friendly
reception of us might only precede some horrible catastrophe?
How strongly did these forebodings spring up in my mind as I
lay restlessly upon a couch of mats, surrounded by the dimly
revealed forms of those whom I so greatly dreaded.

From the excitement of these fearful thoughts I sank towards
morning into an uneasy slumber; and on awaking, with a start,
in the midst of an appalling dream, looked up into the eager
countenances of a number of the natives, who were bending over
me.

[ 84 ]

It was broad day; and the house was nearly filled with young
females, fancifully decorated with flowers, who gazed upon me
as I rose with faces in which childish delight and curiosity were
vividly pourtrayed. After waking Toby, they seated themselves
round us on the mats, and gave full play to that prying inquisi-
tiveness which time out of mind has been attributed to the
adorable sex.

As these unsophisticated young creatures were attended by no
jealous duennas, their proceedings were altogether informal, and
void of artificial restraint. Long and minute was the investiga-
tion with which they honoured us, and so uproarious their mirth,
that I felt infinitely sheepish; and Toby was immeasurably out-
raged at their familiarity.

These lively young ladies were at the same time wonderfully
polite and humane; fanning aside the insects that occasionally
lighted on our brows; presenting us with food; and compassion-
ately regarding me in the midst of my afflictions. But in spite
of all their blandishments, my feelings of propriety were exceed-
ingly shocked, for I could not but consider them as having over-
stepped the due limits of female decorum.

Having diverted themselves to their heart’s content, our young
visitants now withdrew, and gave place to successive troops of
the other sex, who continued flocking towards the house until
near noon; by which time I have no doubt that the greater part
of the inhabitants of the valley had bathed themselves in the
light of our benignant countenances.

At last, when their numbers began to diminish, a superb-
looking warrior stooped the towering plumes of his head-dress
beneath the low portal, and entered the house. I saw at once
that he was some distinguished personage, the natives regarding
him with the utmost deference, and making room for him as he
approached. His aspect was imposing. The splendid long
drooping tail-feathers of the tropical bird, thickly interspersed
with the gaudy plumage of the cock, were disposed in an im-
mense upright semicircle upon his head, their lower extremities
being fixed in a crescent of guinea-beads which spanned the fore-
head. Around his neck were several enormous necklaces of
boars’ tusks, polished like ivory, and disposed in such a manner
as that the longest and largest were upon his capacious chest.

[ 85 ]

Thrust forward through the large apertures in his ears were two
small and finely shaped sperm-whale teeth, presenting their cavi-
ties in front, stuffed with freshly-plucked leaves, and curiously
wrought at the other end into strange little images and devices.
These barbaric trinkets, garnished in this manner at their open
extremities, and tapering and curving round to a point behind
the ear, resembled not a little a pair of cornucopias.

The loins of the warrior were girt about with heavy folds of a
dark-coloured tappa, hanging before and behind in clusters of
braided tassels, while anklets and bracelets of curling human hair
completed his unique costume. In his right hand he grasped a
beautifully carved paddle-spear, nearly fifteen feet in length,
made of the bright koar-wood, one end sharply pointed, and the
other flattened like an oar-blade. Hanging obliquely from his
girdle by a loop of sinnate was a richly decorated pipe, the slen-
der reed forming its stem was coloured with a red pigment, and
round it, as well as the idol-bowl, fluttered little streamers of the
thinnest tappa.

But that which was most remarkable in the appearance of the
splendid islander was the elaborated tattooing displayed on every
noble limb. All imaginable lines and curves and figures were
delineated over his whole body, and in their grotesque variety
and infinite profusion I could only compare them to the crowded
groupings of quaint patterns we sometimes see in costly pieces of
lacework. The most simple and remarkable of all these orna-
ments was that which decorated the countenance of the chief.
Two broad stripes of tattooing, diverging from the centre of his
shaven crown, obliquely crossed both eyes—staining the lids—to
a little below either ear, where they united with another stripe
which swept in a straight line along the lips and formed the base
of the triangle. The warrior, from the excellence of his physical
proportions, might certainly have been regarded as one of Na-
ture’s noblemen, and the lines drawn upon his face may possibly
have denoted his exalted rank.

This warlike personage, upon entering the house, seated him-
self at some distance from the spot where, Toby and myself
reposed, while the rest of the savages looked alternately from us
to him, as if in expectation of something they were disappointed
in not perceiving. Regarding the chief attentively, I thought

[ 86 ]

his lineaments appeared familiar to me. As soon as his full face
was turned upon me, and I again beheld its extraordinary embel-
lishment, and met the strange gaze to which I had been subjected
the preceding night, I immediately, in spite of the alteration in
his appearance, recognised the noble Mehevi. On addressing
him, he advanced at once in the most cordial manner, and,
greeting me warmly, seemed to enjoy not a little the effect his
barbaric costume had produced upon me.

I forthwith determined to secure, if possible, the good will of
this individual, as I easily perceived he was a man of great
authority in his tribe, and one who might exert a powerful in-
fluence upon our subsequent fate. In the endeavour I was not
repulsed; for nothing could surpass the friendliness he manifested
towards both my companion and myself. He extended his sturdy
limbs by our side, and endeavoured to make us comprehend the
full extent of the kindly feelings by which he was actuated. The
almost insuperable difficulty in communicating to one another
our ideas affected the chief with no little mortification. He evinced
a great desire to be enlightened with regard to the customs and
peculiarities of the far-off country we had left behind us, and to
which under the name of Maneeka he frequently alluded.

But that which more than any other subject engaged his atten-
tion was the late proceedings of the “Franee,” as he called the
French, in the neighbouring bay of Nukuheva. This seemed
a never-ending theme with him, and one concerning which he
was never weary of interrogating us. All the information we
succeeded in imparting to him on this subject was little more than
that we had seen six men-of-war lying in the hostile bay at the
time we had left it. When he received this intelligence, Mehevi,
by the aid of his fingers, went through a long numerical calcula-
tion, as if estimating the number of Frenchmen the squadron
might contain.

It was just after employing his faculties in this way that he
happened to notice the swelling in my limb. He immediately
examined it with the utmost attention, and after doing so de-
spatched a boy who happened to be standing by with some
message.

After the lapse of a few moments the stripling re-entered the
house with an aged islander, who might have been taken for old

[ 87 ]

Hippocrates himself. His head was as bald as the polished sur-
face of a cocoa-nut shell, which article it precisely resembled in
smoothness and colour, while a long silvery beard swept almost
to his girdle of bark. Encircling his temples was a bandeau of
the twisted leaves of the Omoo tree, pressed closely over the
brows to shield his feeble vision from the glare of the sun. His
tottering steps were supported by a long slim staff, resembling
the wand with which a theatrical magician appears on the stage,
and in one hand he carried a freshly plaited fan of the green
leaflets of the cocoa-nut tree. A flowing robe of tappa, knotted
over the shoulder, hung loosely round his stooping form, and
heightened the venerableness of his aspect.

Mehevi, saluting this old gentleman, motioned him to a seat
between us, and then uncovering my limb, desired him to exa-
mine it. The leech gazed intently from me to Toby, and then
proceeded to business. After diligently observing the ailing
member, he commenced manipulating it; and on the supposition
probably that the complaint had deprived the leg of all sensa-
tion, began to pinch and hammer it in such a manner that I
absolutely roared with the pain. Thinking that I was as capable
of making an application of thumps and pinches to the part as
any one else, I endeavoured to resist this species of medical treat-
ment. But it was not so easy a matter to get out of the clutches
of the old wizard; he fastened on the unfortunate limb as if it
were something for which he had been long seeking, and mutter-
ing some kind of incantation continued his discipline, pounding
it after a fashion that set me well nigh crazy; while Mehevi,
upon the same principle which prompts an affectionate mother
to hold a struggling child in a dentist’s chair, restrained me in
his powerful grasp, and actually encouraged the wretch in this
infliction of torture.

Almost frantic with rage and pain, I yelled like a bedlamite;
while Toby, throwing himself into all the attitudes of a posture-
master, vainly endeavoured to expostulate with the natives by
signs and gestures. To have looked at my companion, as, sym-
pathising with my sufferings, he strove to put an end to them,
one would have thought that he was the deaf and dumb alphabet
incarnated. Whether my tormentor yielded to Toby’s entreaties,
or paused from sheer exhaustion, I do not know; but all at

[ 88 ]

once he ceased his operations, and at the same time the chief
relinquishing his hold upon me, I fell back, faint and breathless,
with the agony I had endured.

My unfortunate limb was now left much in the same condition
as a rump-steak after undergoing the castigating process which
precedes cooking. My physician, having recovered from the
fatigues of his exertions, as if anxious to make amends for the
pain to which he had subjected me, now took some herbs out of
a little wallet that was suspended from his waist, and moistening
them in water, applied them to the inflamed part, stooping over
it at the same time, and either whispering a spell, or having a
little confidential chat with some imaginary demon located in
the calf of my leg. My limb was now swathed in leafy bandages,
and, grateful to Providence for the cessation of hostilities, I was
suffered to rest.

Mehevi shortly after rose to depart; but before he went he spoke
authoritatively to one of the natives whom he addressed as Kory-
Kory; and from the little I could understand of what took place,
pointed him out to me as a man whose peculiar business thence-
forth would be to attend upon my person. I am not certain
that I comprehended as much as this at the time, but the subse-
quent conduct of my trusty body-servant fully assured me that
such must have been the case.

I could not but be amused at the manner in which the chief
addressed me upon this occasion, talking to me for at least fifteen
or twenty minutes as calmly as if I could understand every word
that he said. I remarked this peculiarity very often afterwards
in many other of the islanders.

Mehevi having now departed, and the family physician having
likewise made his exit, we were left about sunset with the ten or
twelve natives, who by this time I had ascertained composed the
household of which Toby and I were members. As the dwelling
to which we had been first introduced was the place of my per-
manent abode while I remained in the valley, and as I was
necessarily placed upon the most intimate footing with its occu-
pants, I may as well here enter into a little description of it and
its inhabitants. This description will apply also to nearly all the
other dwelling-places in the vale, and will furnish some idea of
the generality of the natives.

[ 89 ]

Near one side of the valley, and about midway up the ascent
of a rather abrupt rise of ground waving with the richest ver-
dure, a number of large stones were laid in successive courses, to
the height of nearly eight feet, and disposed in such a manner
that their level surface corresponded in shape with the habitation
which was perched upon it. A narrow space, however, was re-
served in front of the dwelling, upon the summit of this pile of
stones, (called by the natives a “pi-pi,”) which being enclosed
by a little picket of canes, gave it somewhat the appearance of a
verandah. The frame of the house was constructed of large
bamboos planted uprightly, and secured together at intervals by
transverse stalks of the light wood of the habiscus, lashed with
thongs of bark. The rear of the tenement—built up with suc-
cessive ranges of cocoa-nut boughs bound one upon another, with
their leaflets cunningly woven together—inclined a little from
the vertical, and extended from the extreme edge of the “pi pi”
to about twenty feet from its surface; whence the shelving roof
—thatched with the long tapering leaves of the palmetto—sloped
steeply off to within about five feet of the floor; leaving the
eaves drooping with tassel-like appendages over the front of the
habitation. This was constructed of light and elegant canes, in
a kind of open screen work, tastefully adorned with bindings of
variegated sinnate, which served to hold together its various
parts. The sides of the house were similarly built; thus pre-
senting three quarters for the circulation of the air, while the
whole was impervious to the rain.

In length this picturesque building was perhaps twelve yards,
while in breadth it could not have exceeded as many feet. So
much for the exterior; which with its wire-like reed-twisted
sides, not a little reminded me of an immense aviary.

Stooping a little, you passed through a narrow aperture in its
front; and facing you, on entering, lay two long, perfectly straight,
and well-polished trunks of the cocoa-nut tree, extending the full
length of the dwelling; one of them placed closely against the
rear, and the other lying parallel with it some two yards distant,
the interval between them being spread with a multitude of gaily-
worked mats, nearly all of a different pattern. This space
formed the common couch and lounging place of the natives,
answering the purpose of a divan in Oriental countries. Here

[ 90 ]

would they slumber through the hours of the night, and recline
luxuriously during the greater part of the day. The remainder
of the floor presented only the cool shining surfaces of the large
stones of which the “pi-pi” was composed.

From the ridge pole of the house hung suspended a number of
large packages enveloped in coarse tappa; some of which con-
tained festival dresses, and various other matters of the wardrobe,
held in high estimation. These were easily accessible by means
of a line, which, passing over the ridge-pole, had one end attached
to a bundle, while with the other, which led to the side of the
dwelling and was there secured, the package could be lowered or
elevated at pleasure.

Against the farther wall of the house were arranged in tasteful
figures a variety of spears and javelins, and other implements of
savage warfare. Outside of the habitation, and built upon the
piazza-like area in its front, was a little shed used as a sort of
larder or pantry, and in which were stored various articles of
domestic use and convenience. A few yards from the pi-pi was
a large shed built of cocoa-nut boughs, where the process of pre-
paring the “poee-poee” was carried on, and all culinary opera-
tions attended to.

Thus much for the house, and its appurtenances; and it will
be readily acknowledged that a more commodious and appro-
priate dwelling for the climate and the people could not pos-
sibly be devised. It was cool, free to admit the air, scrupu-
lously clean, and elevated above the dampness and impurities of
the ground.

But now to sketch the inmates; and here I claim for my tried
servitor and faithful valet Kory-Kory the precedence of a first
description. As his character will be gradually unfolded in the
course of my narrative, I shall for the present content myself
with delineating his personal appearance. Kory-Kory, though
the most devoted and best natured serving-man in the world,
was, alas! a hideous object to look upon. He was some
twenty-five years of age, and about six feet in height, robust and
well made, and of the most extraordinary aspect. His head was
carefully shaven, with the exception of two circular spots, about
the size of a dollar, near the top of the cranium, where the hair,
permitted to grow of an amazing length, was twisted up in two

[ 91 ]

prominent knots, that gave him the appearance of being deco-
rated with a pair of horns. His beard, plucked out by the roots
from every other part of his face, was suffered to droop in hairy
pendants, two of which garnished his upper lip, and an equal
number hung from the extremity of his chin.

Kory-Kory, with a view of improving the handiwork of nature,
and perhaps prompted by a desire to add to the engaging ex-
pression of his countenance, had seen fit to embellish his face
with three broad longitudinal stripes of tattooing, which, like
those country roads that go straight forward in defiance of all
obstacles, crossed his nasal organ, descended into the hollow of
his eyes, and even skirted the borders of his mouth. Each com-
pletely spanned his physiognomy; one extending in a line with
his eyes, another crossing the face in the vicinity of the nose,
and the third sweeping along his lips from ear to ear. His coun-
tenance thus triply hooped, as it were, with tattooing, always
reminded me of those unhappy wretches whom I have sometimes
observed gazing out sentimentally from behind the grated bars
of a prison window; whilst the entire body of my savage valet,
covered all over with representations of birds and fishes, and a
variety of most unaccountable-looking creatures, suggested to
me the idea of a pictorial museum of natural history, or an
illustrated copy of ‘Goldsmith’s Animated Nature.’

But it seems really heartless in me to write thus of the poor
islander, when I owe perhaps to his unremitting attentions the
very existence I now enjoy. Kory-Kory, I mean thee no harm
in what I say in regard to thy outward adornings; but they were
a little curious to my unaccustomed sight, and therefore I dilate
upon them. But to underrate or forget thy faithful services is
something I could never be guilty of, even in the giddiest
moment of my life.

The father of my attached follower was a native of gigantic
frame, and had once possessed prodigious physical powers; but
the lofty form was now yielding to the inroads of time, though
the hand of disease seemed never to have been laid upon the
aged warrior. Marheyo—for such was his name—appeared to
have retired from all active participation in the affairs of the
valley, seldom or never accompanying the natives in their
various expeditions; and employing the greater part of his time

[ 92 ]

in throwing up a little shed just outside the house, upon which
he was engaged to my certain knowledge for four months, with-
out appearing to make any sensible advance. I suppose the old
gentleman was in his dotage, for he manifested in various ways
the characteristics which mark this particular stage of life.

I remember in particular his having a choice pair of ear-orna-
ments, fabricated from the teeth of some sea-monster. These he
would alternately wear and take off at least fifty times in the
course of the day, going and coming from his little hut on each
occasion with all the tranquillity imaginable. Sometimes slipping
them through the slits in his ears, he would seize his spear—
which in length and slightness resembled a fishing-pole—and go
stalking beneath the shadows of the neighbouring groves, as if
about to give a hostile meeting to some cannibal knight. But
he would soon return again, and hiding his weapon under the
projecting eaves of the house, and rolling his clumsy trinkets
carefully in a piece of tappa, would resume his more pacific
operations as quietly as if he had never interrupted them.

But despite his eccentricities, Marheyo was a most paternal
and warm-hearted old fellow, and in this particular not a little
resembled his son Kory-Kory. The mother of the latter was
the mistress of the family, and a notable housewife, and a most
industrious old lady she was. If she did not understand the art
of making jellies, jams, custards, tea-cakes, and such like trashy
affairs, she was profoundly skilled in the mysteries of preparing
“amar,” “poee-poee,” and “kokoo,” with other substantial
matters. She was a genuine busy-body; bustling about the
house like a country landlady at an unexpected arrival; for ever
giving the young girls tasks to perform, which the little hussies
as often neglected; poking into every corner, and rummaging
over bundles of old tappa, or making a prodigious clatter among
the calabashes. Sometimes she might have been seen squatting
upon her haunches in front of a huge wooden basin, and knead-
ing poee-poee with terrific vehemence, dashing the stone pestle
about as if she would shiver the vessel into fragments; on other
occasions, galloping about the valley in search of a particular
kind of leaf, used in some of her recondite operations, and re-
turning home, toiling and sweating, with a bundle of it, under
which most women would have sunk.

[ 93 ]

To tell the truth, Kory-Kory’s mother was the only industrious
person in all the valley of Typee; and she could not have em-
ployed herself more actively had she been left an exceedingly
muscular and destitute widow, with an inordinate supply of
young children, in the bleakest part of the civilized world.
There was not the slightest necessity for the greater portion of
the labour performed by the old lady: but she seemed to work
from some irresistible impulse; her limbs continually swaying to
and fro, as if there were some indefatigable engine concealed
within her body which kept her in perpetual motion.

Never suppose that she was a termagant or a shrew for all
this; she had the kindliest heart in the world, and acted towards
me in particular in a truly maternal manner, occasionally putting
some little morsel of choice food into my hand, some outlandish
kind of savage sweetmeat or pastry, like a doting mother petting
a sickly urchin with tarts and sugar-plums. Warm indeed are
my remembrances of the dear, good, affectionate old Tinor!

Besides the individuals I have mentioned, there belonged to
the household three young men, dissipated, good-for-nothing,
roystering blades of savages, who were either employed in pro-
secuting love-affairs with the maidens of the tribe, or grew boozy
on “arva” and tobacco in the company of congenial spirits, the
scapegraces of the valley.

Among the permanent inmates of the house were likewise
several lovely damsels, who instead of thrumming pianos and
reading novels, like more enlightened young ladies, substituted
for these employments the manufacture of a fine species of tappa;
but for the greater portion of the time were skipping from house
to house, gadding and gossiping with their acquaintances.

From the rest of these, however, I must except the beauteous
nymph Fayaway, who was my peculiar favourite. Her free pliant
figure was the very perfection of female grace and beauty. Her
complexion was a rich and mantling olive, and when watching
the glow upon her cheeks I could almost swear that beneath the
transparent medium there lurked the blushes of a faint vermilion.
The face of this girl was a rounded oval, and each feature as
perfectly formed as the heart or imagination of man could desire.
Her full lips, when parted with a smile, disclosed teeth of a daz-
zling whiteness; and when her rosy mouth opened with a burst

[ 94 ]

of merriment, they looked like the milk-white seeds of the
“arta,” a fruit of the valley, which, when cleft in twain, shows
them reposing in rows on either side, imbedded in the rich and
juicy pulp. Her hair of the deepest brown, parted irregularly
in the middle, flowed in natural ringlets over her shoulders, and
whenever she chanced to stoop, fell over and hid from view her
lovely bosom. Gazing into the depths of her strange blue eyes,
when she was in a contemplative mood, they seemed most placid
yet unfathomable; but when illuminated by some lively emotion,
they beamed upon the beholder like stars. The hands of Fay-
away were as soft and delicate as those of any countess; for an
entire exemption from rude labour marks the girlhood and even
prime of a Typee woman’s life. Her feet, though wholly exposed,
were as diminutive and fairly shaped as those which peep from
beneath the skirts of a Lima lady’s dress. The skin of this young
creature, from continual ablutions and the use of mollifying
ointments, was inconceivably smooth and soft.

I may succeed, perhaps, in particularising some of the indi-
vidual features of Fayaway’s beauty, but that general loveliness of
appearance which they all contributed to produce I will not
attempt to describe. The easy unstudied graces of a child of
nature like this, breathing from infancy an atmosphere of per-
petual summer, and nurtured by the simple fruits of the earth;
enjoying a perfect freedom from care and anxiety, and removed
effectually from all injurious tendencies, strike the eye in a
manner which cannot be pourtrayed. This picture is no fancy
sketch; it is drawn from the most vivid recollections of the person
delineated.

Were I asked if the beauteous form of Fayaway was altogether
free from the hideous blemish of tattooing, I should be constraind
to answer that it was not. But the practitioners of the barbarous
art, so remorseless in their inflictions upon the brawny limbs of
the warriors of the tribe, seem to be conscious that it needs not
the resources of their profession to augment the charms of the
maidens of the vale.

The females are very little embellished in this way, and
Fayaway, with all the other young girls of her age, were even
less so than those of their sex more advanced in years. The
reason of this peculiarity will be alluded to hereafter. All the

[ 95 ]

tattooing that the nymph in question exhibited upon her person
may be easily described. Three minute dots, no bigger than pin-
heads, decorated either lip, and at a little distance were not at all
discernible. Just upon the fall of the shoulder were drawn two
parallel lines half an inch apart, and perhaps three inches in
length, the interval being filled with delicately executed figures.
These narrow bands of tattooing, thus placed, always reminded
me of those stripes of gold lace worn by officers in undress, and
which were in lieu of epaulettes to denote their rank.

Thus much was Fayaway tattooed—the audacious hand which
had gone so far in its desecrating work stopping short, appa-
rently wanting the heart to proceed.

But I have omitted to describe the dress worn by this nymph
of the valley.

Fayaway—I must avow the fact—for the most part clung to
the primitive and summer garb of Eden. But how becoming
the costume! It showed her fine figure to the best possible ad-
vantage; and nothing could have been better adapted to her
peculiar style of beauty. On ordinary occasions she was habited
precisely as I have described the two youthful savages whom we
had met on first entering the valley. At other times, when ram-
bling among the groves, or visiting at the houses of her ac-
quaintances, she wore a tunic of white tappa, reaching from her
waist to a little below the knees; and when exposed for any
length of time to the sun, she invariably protected herself from
its rays by a floating mantle of the same material, loosely
gathered about the person. Her gala dress will be described
hereafter.

As the beauties of our own land delight in bedecking them-
selves with fanciful articles of jewellery, suspending them from
their ears, hanging them about their necks, and clasping them
around their wrists; so Fayaway and her companions were in
the habit of ornamenting themselves with similar appendages.

Flora was their jeweller. Sometimes they wore necklaces of
small carnation flowers, strung like rubies upon a fibre of tappa,
or displayed in their ears a single white bud, the stem thrust
backward through the aperture, and showing in front the delicate
petals folded together in a beautiful sphere, and looking like a
drop of the purest pearl. Chaplets too, resembling in their ar-

[ 96 ]

rangement the strawberry coronal worn by an English peeress,
and composed of intertwined leaves and blossoms, often crowned
their temples; and bracelets and anklets of the same tasteful
pattern were frequently to be seen. Indeed, the maidens of the
island were passionately fond of flowers, and never wearied of
decorating their persons with them; a lovely trait in their cha-
racter, and one that ere long will be more fully alluded to.

Though in my eyes, at least, Fayaway was indisputably the
loveliest female I saw in Typee, yet the description I have given
of her will in some measure apply to nearly all the youthful por-
tion of her sex in the valley. Judge ye then, reader, what
beautiful creatures they must have been.

[ 97 ]

CHAPTER XII.

Officiousness of Kory-Kory—His Devotion—A Bath in the Stream—Want
of Refinement of the Typee Damsels—Stroll with Mehevi—A Typee
Highway—The Taboo Groves—The Hoolah Hoolah Ground—The Ti
—Time-worn Savages—Hospitality of Mehevi—Midnight Misgivings—
Adventure in the Dark—Distinguished Honours paid to the Visitors—
Strange Procession and Return to the House of Marheyo.

When Mehevi had departed from the house, as related in the
preceding chapter, Kory-Kory commenced the functions of the
post assigned him. He brought us various kinds of food; and,
as if I were an infant, insisted upon feeding me with his own
hands. To this procedure I, of course, most earnestly objected,
but in vain; and having laid a calabash of kokoo before me, he
washed his fingers in a vessel of water, and then putting his
hand into the dish and rolling the food into little balls, put them
one after another into my mouth. All my remonstrances against
this measure only provoked so great a clamour on his part, that
I was obliged to acquiesce; and the operation of feeding being
thus facilitated, the meal was quickly despatched. As for Toby,
he was allowed to help himself after his own fashion.

The repast over, my attendant arranged the mats for repose,
and, bidding me lie down, covered me with a large robe of
tappa, at the same time looking approvingly upon me, and ex-
claiming, “Ki-Ki, muee muee, ah! moee moee mortarkee” (eat
plenty, ah! sleep very good). The philosophy of this sentiment
I did not pretend to question; for deprived of sleep for several
preceding nights, and the pain in my limb having much abated,
I now felt inclined to avail myself of the opportunity afforded me.

The next morning, on waking, I found Kory-Kory stretched
out on one side of me, while my companion lay upon the other.
I felt sensibly refreshed after a night of sound repose, and imme-
diately agreed to the proposition of my valet that I should repair
to the water and wash, although dreading the suffering that the
exertion might produce. From this apprehension, however, I

[ 98 ]

was quickly relieved; for Kory-Kory, leaping from the pi-pi,
and then backing himself up against it, like a porter in readiness
to shoulder a trunk, with loud vociferations and a superabund-
ance of gestures, gave me to understand that I was to mount
upon his back and be thus transported to the stream, which
flowed perhaps two hundred yards from the house.

Our appearance upon the verandah in front of the habitation
drew together quite a crowd, who stood looking on and convers-
ing with one another in the most animated manner. They re-
minded one of a group of idlers gathered about the door of a
village tavern when the equipage of some distinguished traveller
is brought round previous to his departure. As soon as I clasped
my arms about the neck of the devoted fellow, and he jogged off
with me, the crowd—composed chiefly of young girls and boys—
followed after, shouting and capering with infinite glee, and
accompanied us to the banks of the stream.

On gaining it, Kory-Kory, wading up to his hips in the water,
carried me half way across, and deposited me on a smooth black
stone which rose a few inches above the surface. The amphi-
bious rabble at our heels plunged in after us, and, climbing to
the summit of the grass-grown rocks with which the bed of the
brook was here and there broken, waited curiously to witness
our morning ablutions.

Somewhat embarrassed by the presence of the female portion
of the company, and feeling my cheeks burning with bashful
timidity, I formed a primitive basin by joining my hands toge-
ther, and cooled my blushes in the water it contained; then
removing my frock, bent over and washed myself down to my
waist in the stream. As soon as Kory-Kory comprehended from
my motions that this was to be the extent of my performance,
he appeared perfectly aghast with astonishment, and rushing
towards me, poured out a torrent of words in eager deprecation
of so limited an operation, enjoining me by unmistakeable signs
to immerse my whole body. To this I was forced to consent;
and the honest fellow regarding me as a froward, inexperienced
child, whom it was his duty to serve at the risk of offending,
lifted me from the rock, and tenderly bathed my limbs. This
over, and resuming my seat, I could not avoid bursting into
admiration of the scene around me.

[ 99 ]

From the verdant surfaces of the large stones that lay scattered
about, the natives were now sliding off into the water, diving and
ducking beneath the surface in all directions—the young girls
springing buoyantly into the air, and revealing their naked forms
to the waist, with their long tresses dancing about their shoulders,
their eyes sparkling like drops of dew in the sun, and their gay
laughter pealing forth at every frolicsome incident.

On the afternoon of the day that I took my first bath in the
valley, we received another visit from Mehevi. The noble savage
seemed to be in the same pleasant mood, and was quite as cordial
in his manner as before. After remaining about an hour, he rose
from the mats, and motioning to leave the house, invited Toby
and myself to accompany him. I pointed to my leg; but Me-
hevi in his turn pointed to Kory-Kory, and removed that objec-
tion; so, mounting upon the faithful fellow’s shoulders again—
like the old man of the sea astride of Sindbad—I followed after
the chief.

The nature of the route we now pursued struck me more
forcibly than anything I had yet seen, as illustrating the indolent
disposition of the islanders. The path was obviously the most
beaten one in the valley, several others leading from either side
into it, and perhaps for successive generations it had formed the
principal avenue of the place. And yet, until I grew more fami-
liar with its impediments, it seemed as difficult to travel as the
recesses of a wilderness. Part of it swept round an abrupt rise
of ground, the surface of which was broken by frequent inequa-
lities, and thickly strewn with projecting masses of rocks, whose
summits were often hidden from view by the drooping foliage of the
luxuriant vegetation. Sometimes directly over, sometimes evad-
ing these obstacles with a wide circuit, the path wound along;—
one moment climbing over a sudden eminence smooth with con-
tinued wear, then descending on the other side into a steep glen,
and crossing the flinty channel of a brook. Here it pursued the
depths of a glade, occasionally obliging you to stoop beneath vast
horizontal branches; and now you stepped over huge trunks and
boughs that lay rotting across the track.

Such was the grand thoroughfare of Typee. After proceeding
a little distance along it—Kory-Kory panting and blowing with
the weight of his burden—I dismounted from his back, and

[ 100 ]

grasping the long spear of Mehevi in my hand, assisted my steps
over the numerous obstacles of the road; preferring this mode of
advance to one which, from the difficulties of the way, was equally
painful to myself and my wearied servitor.

Our journey was soon at an end; for, scaling a sudden height,
we came abruptly upon the place of our destination. I wish that it
were possible to sketch in words this spot as vividly as I recol-
lect it.

Here were situated the Taboo groves of the valley—the scene
of many a prolonged feast, of many a horrid rite. Beneath the
dark shadows of the consecrated bread-fruit trees there reigned a
solemn twilight—a cathedral-like gloom. The frightful genius
of pagan worship seemed to brood in silence over the place,
breathing its spell upon every object around. Here and there,
in the depths of these awful shades, half screened from sight by
masses of overhanging foliage, rose the idolatrous altars of the
savages, built of enormous blocks of black and polished stone,
placed one upon another, without cement, to the height of twelve
or fifteen feet, and surmounted by a rustic open temple, enclosed
with a low picket of canes, within which might be seen, in various
stages of decay, offerings of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, and the
putrefying relics of some recent sacrifice.

In the midst of the wood was the hallowed “hoolah hoolah”
ground—set apart for the celebration of the fantastic religious
ritual of these people—comprising an extensive oblong pi-pi,
terminating at either end in a lofty terraced altar, guarded by
ranks of hideous wooden idols, and with the two remaining sides
flanked by ranges of bamboo sheds, opening towards the interior
of the quadrangle thus formed. Vast trees, standing in the middle
of this space, and throwing over it an umbrageous shade, had
their massive trunks built round with slight stages, elevated a
few feet above the ground, and railed in with canes, forming so
many rustic pulpits, from which the priests harangued their
devotees.

This holiest of spots was defended from profanation by the
strictest edicts of the all-pervading “taboo,” which condemned
to instant death the sacrilegious female who should enter or touch
its sacred precincts, or even so much as press with her feet the
ground made holy by the shadows that it cast.

[ 101 ]

Access was had to the enclosure through an embowered en-
trance on one side, facing a number of towering cocoa-nut trees,
planted at intervals along a level area of a hundred yards. At the
further extremity of this space was to be seen a building of con-
siderable size, reserved for the habitation of the priests and re-
ligious attendants of the groves.

In its vicinity was another remarkable edifice, built as usual
upon the summit of a pi-pi, and at least two hundred feet in
length, though not more than twenty in breadth. The whole
front of this latter structure was completely open, and from one
end to the other ran a narrow verandah, fenced in on the edge of
the pi-pi with a picket of canes. Its interior presented the ap-
pearance of an immense lounging-place, the entire floor being
strewn with successive layers of mats, lying between parallel
trunks of cocoa-nut trees, selected for the purpose from the
straightest and most symmetrical the vale afforded.

To this building, denominated in the language of the natives
the “Ti,” Mehevi now conducted us. Thus far we had been
accompanied by a troop of the natives of both sexes; but as soon
as we approached its vicinity, the females gradually separated
themselves from the crowd, and standing aloof, permitted us to
pass on. The merciless prohibitions of the taboo extended likewise
to this edifice, and were enforced by the same dreadful penalty
that secured the Hoolah Hoolah ground from the imaginary pol-
lution of a woman’s presence.

On entering the house, I was surprised to see six muskets
ranged against the bamboo on one side, from the barrels of which
depended as many small canvas pouches, partly filled with powder.
Disposed about these muskets, like the cutlasses that decorate
the bulkhead of a man-of-war’s cabin, were a great variety of
rude spears and paddles, javelins, and war-clubs. This then, said
I to Toby, must be the armory of the tribe.

As we advanced further along the building, we were struck
with the aspect of four or five hideous old wretches, on whose
decrepit forms time and tattooing seemed to have obliterated
every trace of humanity. Owing to the continued operation of
this latter process, which only terminates among the warriors of
the island after all the figures stretched upon their limbs in
youth have been blended together—an effect, however, produced

[ 102 ]

only in cases of extreme longevity — the bodies of these men
were of a uniform dull green colour—the hue which the tattooing
gradually assumes as the individual advances in age. Their skin
had a frightful scaly appearance, which, united with its singular
colour, made their limbs not a little resemble dusty specimens of
verde-antique. Their flesh, in parts, hung upon them in huge
folds, like the overlapping plaits on the flank of a rhinoceros.
Their heads were completely bald, whilst their faces were
puckered into a thousand wrinkles, and they presented no ves-
tige of a beard. But the most remarkable peculiarity about
them was the appearance of their feet; the toes, like the ra-
diating lines of the mariner’s compass, pointed to every quarter
of the horizon. This was doubtless attributable to the fact,
that during nearly a hundred years of existence the said toes
never had been subjected to any artificial confinement, and in
their old age, being averse to close neighbourhood, bid one an-
other keep open order.

These repulsive-looking creatures appeared to have lost the
use of their lower limbs altogether; sitting upon the floor cross-
legged in a state of torpor. They never heeded us in the least,
scarcely looking conscious of our presence, while Mehevi seated
us upon the mats, and Kory-Kory gave utterance to some unin-
telligible gibberish.

In a few moments a boy entered with a wooden trencher of
poee-poee; and in regaling myself with its contents I was obliged
again to submit to the officious intervention of my indefatigable
servitor. Various other dishes followed, the chief manifesting
the most hospitable importunity in pressing us to partake, and to
remove all bashfulness on our part, set us no despicable example
in his own person.

The repast concluded, a pipe was lighted, which passed from
mouth to mouth, and yielding to its soporific influence, the quiet
of the place, and the deepening shadows of approaching night,
my companion and I sank into a kind of drowsy repose, while
the chief and Kory-Kory seemed to be slumbering beside us.

I awoke from an uneasy nap, about midnight, as I supposed;
and, raising myself partly from the mat, became sensible that we
were enveloped in utter darkness. Toby lay still asleep, but our
late companions had disappeared. The only sound that inter-

[ 103 ]

rupted the silence of the place was the asthmatic breathing of the
old men I have mentioned, who reposed at a little distance from
us. Beside them, as well as I could judge, there was no one else
in the house.

Apprehensive of some evil, I roused my comrade, and we
were engaged in a whispered conference concerning the unex-
pected withdrawal of the natives, when all at once, from the
depths of the grove, in full view of us where we lay, shoots of
flame were seen to rise, and in a few moments illuminated the
surrounding trees, casting, by contrast, into still deeper gloom
the darkness around us.

While we continued gazing at this sight, dark figures appeared
moving to and fro before the flames; while others, dancing and
capering about, looked like so many demons.

Regarding this new phenomenon with no small degree of tre-
pidation, I said to my companion, “What can all this mean,
Toby?”

“Oh, nothing,” replied he; “getting the fire ready, I sup-
pose.”

“Fire!” exclaimed I, while my heart took to beating like a
trip-hammer, “what fire?”

“Why, the fire to cook us, to be sure; what else would the
cannibals be kicking up such a row about if it were not for
that?”

“Oh, Toby! have done with your jokes; this is no time for
them; something is about to happen, I feel confident.”

“Jokes, indeed!” exclaimed Toby, indignantly. “Did you
ever hear me joke? Why, for what do you suppose the devils
have been feeding us up in this kind of style during the last
three days, unless it were for something that you are too much
frightened at to talk about? Look at that Kory-Kory there!—
has he not been stuffing you with his confounded mushes, just in
the way they treat swine before they kill them? Depend upon
it, we will be eaten this blessed night, and there is the fire we
shall be roasted by.”

This view of the matter was not at all calculated to allay my
apprehensions, and I shuddered when I reflected that we were
indeed at the mercy of a tribe of cannibals, and that the dreadful

[ 104 ]

contingency to which Toby had alluded was by no means removed
beyond the bounds of possibility.

“There! I told you so! they are coming for us!” exclaimed
my companion the next moment, as the forms of four of the
islanders were seen in bold relief against the illuminated back-
ground, mounting the pi-pi and approaching towards us.

They came on noiselessly, nay stealthily, and glided along
through the gloom that surrounded us as if about to spring upon
some object they were fearful of disturbing before they should
make sure of it.—Gracious heaven! the horrible reflections
which crowded upon me that moment.—A cold sweat stood upon
my brow, and spell-bound with terror I awaited my fate!

Suddenly the silence was broken by the well-remembered tones
of Mehevi, and at the kindly accents of his voice my fears were
immediately dissipated. “Tommo, Toby, ki ki!” (eat).—He
had waited to address us until he had assured himself that we
were both awake, at which he seemed somewhat surprised.

“Ki ki! is it?” said Toby in his gruff tones; “well, cook us
first, will you?—but what’s this?” he added, as another savage
appeared, bearing before him a large trencher of wood, contain-
ing some kind of steaming meat, as appeared from the odours it
diffused, and which he deposited at the feet of Mehevi. “A
baked baby, I dare say! but I will have none of it, never mind
what it is.—A pretty fool I should make of myself, indeed, waked
up here in the middle of the night, stuffing and guzzling, and all
to make a fat meal for a parcel of bloody-minded cannibals one
of these mornings!—No, I see what they are at very plainly, so
I am resolved to starve myself into a bunch of bones and gristle,
and then, if they serve me up, they are welcome! But I say,
Tommo, you are not going to eat any of that mess there, in the
dark, are you? Why, how can you tell what it is?”

“By tasting it, to be sure,” said I, masticating a morsel that
Kory-Kory had just put in my mouth; “and excellently good it
is too, very much like veal.”

“A baked baby, by the soul of Captain Cook!” burst forth
Toby, with amazing vehemence; “Veal! why there never was
a calf on the island till you landed. I tell you you are bolting
down mouthfuls from a dead Happar’s carcass, as sure as you
live, and no mistake!”

[ 105 ]

Emetics and lukewarm water! What a sensation in the abdo-
minal regions! Sure enough, where could the fiends incarnate
have obtained meat? But I resolved to satisfy myself at all
hazards; and turning to Mehevi, I soon made the ready chief
understand that I wished a light to be brought. When the taper
came, I gazed eagerly into the vessel, and recognised the muti-
lated remains of a juvenile porker! “Puarkee!” exclaimed
Kory-Kory, looking complacently at the dish; and from that
day to this I have never forgotten that such is the designation of
a pig in the Typee lingo.

The next morning, after being again abundantly feasted by
the hospitable Mehevi, Toby and myself arose to depart. But
the chief requested us to postpone our intention. “Abo, abo,”
(Wait, wait,) he said, and accordingly we resumed our seats,
while, assisted by the zealous Kory-Kory, he appeared to be en-
gaged in giving directions to a number of the natives outside,
who were busily employed in making arrangements, the nature
of which we could not comprehend. But we were not left long
in our ignorance, for a few moments only had elapsed when the
chief beckoned us to approach, and we perceived that he had
been marshalling a kind of guard of honour to escort us on our
return to the house of Marheyo.

The procession was led off by two venerable-looking savages,
each provided with a spear, from the end of which streamed a
pennon of milk-white tappa. After them went several youths,
bearing aloft calabashes of poee-poee; and followed in their turn
by four stalwart fellows, sustaining long bamboos, from the tops
of which hung suspended, at least twenty feet from the ground,
large baskets of green bread-fruit. Then came a troop of boys,
carrying bunches of ripe banannas, and baskets made of the
woven leaflets of cocoa-nut boughs, filled with the young fruit of
the tree, the naked shells stripped of their husks peeping forth
from the verdant wicker-work that surrounded them. Last of all
came a burly islander, holding over his head a wooden trencher,
in which lay disposed the remnants of our midnight feast, hidden
from view, however, by a covering of bread-fruit leaves.

Astonished as I was at this exhibition, I could not avoid
smiling at its grotesque appearance, and the associations it natu-
rally called up. Mehevi, it seemed, was bent on replenishing

[ 106 ]

old Marheyo’s larder, fearful perhaps that without this precau-
tion his guests might not fare as well as they could desire.

As soon as I descended from the pi-pi, the procession formed
anew, enclosing us in its centre; where I remained part of the
time, carried by Kory-Kory, and occasionally relieving him from
his burden by limping along with a spear. When we moved off
in this order, the natives struck up a musical recitative, which,
with various alternations, they continued until we arrived at the
place of our destination.

As we proceeded on our way, bands of young girls, darting
from the surrounding groves, hung upon our skirts, and accom-
panied us with shouts of merriment and delight, which almost
drowned the deep notes of the recitative. On approaching old
Marheyo’s domicile, its inmates rushed out to receive us; and
while the gifts of Mehevi were being disposed of, the superan-
nuated warrior did the honours of his mansion with all the
warmth of hospitality evinced by an English squire when he
regales his friends at some fine old patrimonial mansion.

[ 107 ]

CHAPTER XIII.

Attempt to procure Relief from Nukuheva—Perilous Adventure of Toby in
the Happar Mountain—Eloquence of Kory-Kory.

Amidst these novel scenes a week passed away almost imper-
ceptibly. The natives, actuated by some mysterious impulse,
day after day redoubled their attentions to us. Their manner
towards us was unaccountable. Surely, thought I, they would
not act thus if they meant us any harm. But why this excess
of deferential kindness, or what equivalent can they imagine us
capable of rendering them for it?

We were fairly puzzled. But despite the apprehensions I could
not dispel, the horrible character imputed to these Typees ap-
peared to me wholly undeserved.

“Why, they are cannibals!” said Toby on one occasion when
I eulogised the tribe. “Granted,” I replied, “but a more
humane, gentlemanly, and amiable set of epicures do not pro-
bably exist in the Pacific.”

But, notwithstanding the kind treatment we received, I was
too familiar with the fickle disposition of savages not to feel
anxious to withdraw from the valley, and put myself beyond the
reach of that fearful death which, under all these smiling ap-
pearances, might yet menace us. But here there was an obstacle
in the way of doing so. It was idle for me to think of moving
from the place until I should have recovered from the severe
lameness that afflicted me; indeed my malady began seriously
to alarm me; for, despite the herbal remedies of the natives, it
continued to grow worse and worse. Their mild applications,
though they soothed the pain, did not remove the disorder, and
I felt convinced that without better aid I might anticipate long
and acute suffering.

But how was this aid to be procured? From the surgeons of
the French fleet, which probably still lay in the bay of Nuku-

[ 108 ]

heva, it might easily have been obtained, could I have made my
case known to them. But how could that be effected?

At last, in the exigency to which I was reduced, I proposed
to Toby that he should endeavour to go round to Nukuheva,
and if he could not succeed in returning to the valley by
water, in one of the boats of the squadron, and taking me off,
he might at least procure me some proper medicines, and effect
his return overland.

My companion listened to me in silence, and at first did not
appear to relish the idea. The truth was, he felt impatient to
escape from the place, and wished to avail himself of our present
high favour with the natives to make good our retreat, before
we should experience some sudden alteration in their behaviour.
As he could not think of leaving me in my helpless condition,
he implored me to be of good cheer, assured me that I should
soon be better, and enabled in a few days to return with him to
Nukuheva.

Added to this, he could not bear the idea of again returning
to this dangerous place; and as for the expectation of persuading
the Frenchmen to detach a boat’s crew for the purpose of rescu-
ing me from the Typees, he looked upon it as idle; and with
arguments that I could not answer, urged the improbability of
their provoking the hostilities of the clan by any such measure;
especially as, for the purpose of quieting its apprehensions, they
had as yet refrained from making any visit to the bay. “And
even should they consent,” said Toby, “they would only pro-
duce a commotion in the valley, in which we might both be
sacrificed by these ferocious islanders.” This was unanswerable;
but still I clung to the belief that he might succeed in accom-
plishing the other part of my plan; and at last I overcame his
scruples, and he agreed to make the attempt.

As soon as we succeeded in making the natives understand
our intention, they broke out into the most vehement opposition
to the measure, and for a while I almost despaired of obtaining
their consent. At the bare thought of one of us leaving them,
they manifested the most lively concern. The grief and con-
sternation of Kory-Kory, in particular, was unbounded; he
threw himself into a perfect paroxysm of gestures, which were
intended to convey to us not only his abhorrence of Nukuheva

[ 109 ]

and its uncivilized inhabitants, but also his astonishment that
after becoming acquainted with the enlightened Typees, we should
evince the least desire to withdraw, even for a time, from their
agreeable society.

However, I overbore his objections by appealing to my lame-
ness; from which I assured the natives I should speedily recover,
if Toby were permitted to obtain the supplies I needed.

It was agreed that on the following morning my companion
should depart, accompanied by some one or two of the household,
who should point out to him an easy route, by which the bay
might be reached before sunset.

At early dawn of the next day, our habitation was astir. One
of the young men mounted into an adjoining cocoa-nut tree,
and threw down a number of the young fruit, which old
Marheyo quickly stripped of the green husks, and strung to-
gether upon a short pole. These were intended to refresh Toby
on his route.

The preparations being completed, with no little emotion I
bade my companion adieu. He promised to return in three days
at farthest; and, bidding me keep up my spirits in the interval,
turned round the corner of the pi-pi, and, under the guidance of
the venerable Marheyo, was soon out of sight. His departure
oppressed me with melancholy, and, re-entering the dwelling, I
threw myself almost in despair upon the matting of the floor.

In two hours’ time the old warrior returned, and gave me to
understand that, after accompanying my companion a little dis-
tance, and showing him the route, he had left him journeying on
his way.

It was about noon of this same day, a season which these people
are wont to pass in sleep, that I lay in the house, surrounded by
its slumbering inmates, and painfully affected by the strange
silence which prevailed. All at once I thought I heard a faint
shout, as if proceeding from some persons in the depth of the
grove which extended in front of our habitation.

The sounds grew louder and nearer, and gradually the whole
valley rang with wild outcries. The sleepers around me started
to their feet in alarm, and hurried outside to discover the cause
of the commotion. Kory-Kory, who had been the first to spring
up, soon returned almost breathless, and nearly frantic with the

[ 110 ]

excitement under which he seemed to be labouring. All that I
could understand from him was that some accident had happened
to Toby. Apprehensive of some dreadful calamity, I rushed out
of the house, and caught sight of a tumultuous crowd, who, with
shrieks and lamentations, were just emerging from the grove
bearing in their arms some object, the sight of which produced
all this transport of sorrow. As they drew near, the men re-
doubled their cries, while the girls, tossing their bare arms in
the air, exclaimed plaintively, “Awha! awha! Toby muckee
moee!”—Alas! alas! Toby is killed!

In a moment the crowd opened, and disclosed the apparently
lifeless body of my companion borne between two men, the
head hanging heavily against the breast of the foremost. The
whole face, neck, and bosom were covered with blood, which
still trickled slowly from a wound behind the temple. In the
midst of the greatest uproar and confusion the body was carried
into the house and laid on a mat. Waving the natives off to give
room and air, I bent eagerly over Toby, and, laying my hand
upon the breast, ascertained that the heart still beat. Over-
joyed at this, I seized a calabash of water, and dashed its contents
upon his face, then wiping away the blood, anxiously examined
the wound. It was about three inches long, and on removing the
clotted hair from about it, showed the skull laid completely bare.
Immediately with my knife I cut away the heavy locks, and
bathed the part repeatedly in water.

In a few moments Toby revived, and opening his eyes for a
second, closed them again without speaking. Kory-Kory, who
had been kneeling beside me, now chafed his limbs gently with
the palms of his hands, while a young girl at his head kept
fanning him, and I still continued to moisten his lips and brow.
Soon my poor comrade showed signs of animation, and I suc-
ceeded in making him swallow from a cocoa-nut shell a few
mouthfuls of water.

Old Tinor now appeared, holding in her hand some simples
she had gathered, the juice of which, she by signs besought me
to squeeze into the wound. Having done so, I thought it best to
leave Toby undisturbed until he should have had time to rally
his faculties. Several times he opened his lips, but fearful for
his safety I enjoined silence. In the course of two or three hours,

[ 111 ]

however, he sat up, and was sufficiently recovered to tell me
what had occurred.

“After leaving the house with Marheyo,” said Toby, “we
struck across the valley, and ascended the opposite heights. Just
beyond them, my guide informed me, lay the valley of Happar,
while along their summits, and skirting the head of the vale, was
my route to Nukuheva. After mounting a little way up the
elevation my guide paused, and gave me to understand that he
could not accompany me any farther, and by various signs inti-
mated that he was afraid to approach any nearer the territories
of the enemies of his tribe. He however pointed out my path,
which now lay clearly before me, and bidding me farewell hastily
descended the mountain.

“Quite elated at being so near the Happars, I pushed up the
acclivity, and soon gained its summit. It tapered up to a sharp
ridge, from whence I beheld both the hostile valleys. Here I
sat down and rested for a moment, refreshing myself with my
cocoa nuts. I was soon again pursuing my way along the height,
when suddenly I saw three of the islanders, who must have just
come out of Happar valley, standing in the path ahead of me.
They were each armed with a heavy spear, and one from his ap-
pearance I took to be a chief. They sung out something, I
could not understand what, and beckoned me to come on.

“Without the least hesitation I advanced towards them, and had
approached within about a yard of the foremost, when, pointing
angrily into the Typee valley, and uttering some savage excla-
mation, he wheeled round his weapon like lightning, and struck
me in a moment to the ground. The blow inflicted this wound,
and took away my senses. As soon as I came to myself, I per-
ceived the three islanders standing a little distance off, and ap-
parently engaged in some violent altercation respecting me.

“My first impulse was to run for it; but, in endeavouring to
rise, I fell back, and rolled down a little grassy precipice. The
shock seemed to rally my faculties; so, starting to my feet, I fled
down the path I had just ascended. I had no need to look be-
hind me, for, from the yells I heard, I knew that my enemies were
in full pursuit. Urged on by their fearful outcries, and heedless
of the injury I had received—though the blood flowing from the
wound trickled over into my eyes and almost blinded me—I

[ 112 ]

rushed down the mountain side with the speed of the wind. In
a short time I had descended nearly a third of the distance, and
the savages had ceased their cries, when suddenly a terrific howl
burst upon my ear, and at the same moment a heavy javelin
darted past me as I fled, and stuck quivering in a tree close to
me. Another yell followed, and a second spear and a third shot
through the air within a few feet of my body, both of them
piercing the ground obliquely in advance of me. The fellows
gave a roar of rage and disappointment; but they were afraid,
I suppose, of coming down further into the Typee valley, and
so abandoned the chase. I saw them recover their weapons and
turn back; and I continued my descent as fast as I could.

“What could have caused this ferocious attack on the part of
these Happars I could not imagine, unless it were that they had
seen me ascending the mountain with Marheyo, and that the
mere fact of coming from the Typee valley was sufficient to
provoke them.

“As long as I was in danger I scarcely felt the wound I had
received; but when the chase was over I began to suffer from it.
I had lost my hat in my flight, and the sun scorched my bare
head. I felt faint and giddy; but, fearful of falling to the
ground beyond the reach of assistance, I staggered on as well
as I could, and at last gained the level of the valley, and then
down I sunk; and I knew nothing more until I found myself
lying upon these mats, and you stooping over me with the cala-
bash of water.”

Such was Toby’s account of this sad affair. I afterwards
learned that fortunately he had fallen close to a spot where the
natives go for fuel. A party of them caught sight of him as he
fell, and sounding the alarm, had lifted him up; and after in-
effectually endeavouring to restore him at the brook, had hurried
forward with him to the house.

This incident threw a dark cloud over our prospects. It re-
minded us that we were hemmed in by hostile tribes, whose ter-
ritories we could not hope to pass, on our route to Nukuheva,
without encountering the effects of their savage resentment.
There appeared to be no avenue opened to our escape but the
sea, which washed the lower extremity of the vale.

Our Typee friends availed themselves of the recent disaster of

[ 113 ]

Toby to exhort us to a due appreciation of the blessings we
enjoyed among them; contrasting their own generous reception
of us with the animosity of their neighbours. They likewise
dwelt upon the cannibal propensities of the Happars, a subject
which they were perfectly aware could not fail to alarm us;
while at the same time they earnestly disclaimed all participation
in so horrid a custom. Nor did they omit to call upon us to
admire the natural loveliness of their own abode, and the lavish
abundance with which it produced all manner of luxuriant fruits;
exalting it in this particular above any of the surrounding
valleys.

Kory-Kory seemed to experience so heartfelt a desire to infuse
into our minds proper views on these subjects, that, assisted in
his endeavours by the little knowledge of the language we had
acquired, he actually succeeded in making us comprehend a con-
siderable part of what he said. To facilitate our correct appre-
hension of his meaning, he at first condensed his ideas into the
smallest possible compass.

“Happar keekeeno nuee,” he exclaimed; “nuee, nuee, ki ki
kannaka!—ah! owle motarkee!” which signifies, “Terrible fel-
lows those Happars!—devour an amazing quantity of men!—
ah, shocking bad!” Thus far he explained himself by a variety
of gestures, during the performance of which he would dart out
of the house, and point abhorrently towards the Happar valley;
running in to us again with a rapidity that showed he was fearful
we would lose one part of his meaning before he could com-
plete the other; and continuing his illustrations by seizing the
fleshy part of my arm in his teeth, intimating by the operation
that the people who lived over in that direction would like
nothing better than to treat me in that manner.

Having assured himself that we were fully enlightened on this
point, he proceeded to another branch of his subject. “Ah!
Typee motarkee!—nuee, nuee mioree—nuee, nuee wai—nuee,
nuee poee-poee—nuee, nuee kokoo—ah! nuee, nuee kiki—ah!
nuee, nuee, nuee!” Which, literally interpreted as before, would
imply, “Ah, Typee! isn’t it a fine place though!—no danger of
starving here, I tell you!—plenty of bread-fruit—plenty of
water—plenty of pudding—ah! plenty of everything!—ah!
heaps, heaps, heaps!” All this was accompanied by a running

[ 114 ]

commentary of signs and gestures which it was impossible not to
comprehend.

As he continued his harangue, however, Kory-Kory, in emu-
lation of our more polished orators, began to launch out rather
diffusely into other branches of his subject, enlarging, probably,
upon the moral reflections it suggested; and proceeded in such
a strain of unintelligible and stunning gibberish, that he actually
gave me the headache for the rest of the day.

[ 115 ]

CHAPTER XIV.

A great Event happens in the Valley—The Island Telegraph—Something
befalls Toby—Fayaway displays a tender heart—Melancholy reflections—
Mysterious Conduct of the Islanders—Devotion of Kory-Kory—A rural
Couch—A Luxury—Kory-Kory strikes a Light à la Typee.

In the course of a few days Toby had recovered from the effects
of his adventure with the Happar warriors; the wound on his
head rapidly healing under the vegetable treatment of the good
Tinor. Less fortunate than my companion, however, I still
continued to languish under a complaint the origin and nature of
which were still a mystery. Cut off as I was from all inter-
course with the civilized world, and feeling the inefficiency of
anything the natives could do to relieve me; knowing too, that
so long as I remained in my present condition, it would be im-
possible for me to leave the valley, whatever opportunity might
present itself; and apprehensive that ere long we might be ex-
posed to some caprice on the part of the islanders, I now gave
up all hopes of recovery, and became a prey to the most gloomy
thoughts. A deep dejection fell upon me, which neither the
friendly remonstrances of my companion, the devoted attentions
of Kory-Kory, nor all the soothing influences of Fayaway could
remove.

One morning as I lay on the mats in the house, plunged in
melancholy reverie, and regardless of everything around me,
Toby, who had left me about an hour, returned in haste, and
with great glee told me to cheer up and be of good heart; for he
believed, from what was going on among the natives, that there
were boats approaching the bay.

These tidings operated upon me like magic. The hour of our
deliverance was at hand, and starting up, I was soon convinced
that something unusual was about to occur. The word “botee!
botee!” was vociferated in all directions; and shouts were heard
in the distance, at first feebly and faintly; but growing louder

[ 116 ]

and nearer at each successive repetition, until they were caught
up by a fellow in a cocoa-nut tree a few yards off, who sounding
them in turn, they were reiterated from a neighbouring grove,
and so died away gradually from point to point, as the intelli-
gence penetrated into the farthest recesses of the valley. This
was the vocal telegraph of the islanders; by means of which
condensed items of information could be carried in a very few
minutes from the sea to their remotest habitation, a distance of
at least eight or nine miles. On the present occasion it was in
active operation; one piece of information following another
with inconceivable rapidity.

The greatest commotion now appeared to prevail. At every
fresh item of intelligence the natives betrayed the liveliest in-
terest, and redoubled the energy with which they employed
themselves in collecting fruit to sell to the expected visitors.
Some were tearing off the husks from cocoa-nuts; some perched
in the trees were throwing down bread-fruit to their companions,
who gathered them into heaps as they fell; while others were
plying their fingers rapidly in weaving leafen baskets in which to
carry the fruit.

There were other matters too going on at the same time.
Here you would see a stout warrior polishing his spear with a
bit of old tappa, or adjusting the folds of the girdle about his
waist; and there you might descry a young damsel decorating
herself with flowers, as if having in her eye some maidenly con-
quest; while, as in all cases of hurry and confusion in every part
of the world, a number of individuals kept hurrying to and fro,
with amazing vigour and perseverance, doing nothing themselves,
and hindering others.

Never before had we seen the islanders in such a state of
bustle and excitement; and the scene furnished abundant evi-
dence of the fact—that it was only at long intervals any such
events occur.

When I thought of the length of time that might intervene
before a similar chance of escape would be presented, I bitterly
lamented that I had not the power of availing myself effectually
of the present opportunity.

From all that we could gather, it appeared that the natives
were fearful of arriving too late upon the beach, unless they

[ 117 ]

made extraordinary exertions. Sick and lame as I was, I would
have started with Toby at once, had not Kory-Kory not only re-
fused to carry me, but manifested the most invincible repugnance
to our leaving the neighbourhood of the house. The rest of the
savages were equally opposed to our wishes, and seemed grieved
and astonished at the earnestness of my solicitations. I clearly
perceived that while my attendant avoided all appearance of
constraining my movements, he was nevertheless determined to
thwart my wish. He seemed to me on this particular occasion,
as well as often afterwards, to be executing the orders of some
other person with regard to me, though at the same time feeling
towards me the most lively affection.

Toby, who had made up his mind to accompany the islanders
if possible, as soon as they were in readiness to depart, and who
for that reason had refrained from showing the same anxiety
that I had done, now represented to me that it was idle for me
to entertain the hope of reaching the beach in time to profit by
any opportunity that might then be presented.

“Do you not see,” said he, “the savages themselves are fear-
ful of being too late, and I should hurry forward myself at once
did I not think that if I showed too much eagerness I should
destroy all our hopes of reaping any benefit from this fortunate
event. If you will only endeavour to appear tranquil or un-
concerned, you will quiet their suspicions, and I have no doubt
they will then let me go with them to the beach, supposing that
I merely go out of curiosity. Should I succeed in getting down
to the boats, I will make known the condition in which I have
left you, and measures may then be taken to secure our escape.”

In the expediency of this I could not but acquiesce; and as
the natives had now completed their preparations, I watched
with the liveliest interest the reception that Toby’s application
might meet with. As soon as they understood from my com-
panion that I intended to remain, they appeared to make no
objection to his proposition, and even hailed it with pleasure.
Their singular conduct on this occasion not a little puzzled me
at the time, and imparted to subsequent events an additional
mystery.

The islanders were now to be seen hurrying along the path
which led to the sea. I shook Toby warmly by the hand, and

[ 118 ]

gave him my Payta hat to shield his wounded head from the
sun, as he had lost his own. He cordially returned the pressure
of my hand, and solemnly promising to return as soon as the
boats should leave the shore, sprang from my side, and the next
minute disappeared in a turn of the grove.

In spite of the unpleasant reflections that crowded upon my
mind, I could not but be entertained by the novel and animated
sight which now met my view. One after another the natives
crowded along the narrow path, laden with every variety of
fruit. Here, you might have seen one, who, after ineffectually
endeavouring to persuade a surly porker to be conducted in lead-
ing strings, was obliged at last to seize the perverse animal in
his arms, and carry him struggling against his naked breast, and
squealing without intermission. There went two, who at a
little distance might have been taken for the Hebrew spies, on
their return to Moses with the goodly bunch of grapes. One
trotted before the other at a distance of a couple of yards, while
between them, from a pole resting on their shoulders, was sus-
pended a huge cluster of banannas, which swayed to and fro
with the rocking gait at which they proceeded. Here ran
another, perspiring with his exertions, and bearing before him a
quantity of cocoa-nuts, who, fearful of being too late, heeded
not the fruit that dropped from his basket, and appeared solely
intent upon reaching his destination, careless how many of his
cocoa-nuts kept company with him.

In a short time the last straggler was seen hurrying on his
way, and the faint shouts of those in advance died insensibly
upon the ear. Our part of the valley now appeared nearly de-
serted by its inhabitants, Kory-Kory, his aged father, and a few
decrepid old people being all that were left.

Towards sunset the islanders in small parties began to return
from the beach, and among them, as they drew near to the house,
I sought to descry the form of my companion. But one after
another they passed the dwelling, and I caught no glimpse of
him. Supposing, however, that he would soon appear with
some of the members of the household, I quieted my appre-
hensions, and waited patiently to see him advancing in company
with the beautiful Fayaway. At last, I perceived Tinor coming
forward, followed by the girls and young men who usually re-

[ 119 ]

sided in the house of Marheyo; but with them came not my
comrade, and, filled with a thousand alarms, I eagerly sought to
discover the cause of his delay.

My earnest questions appeared to embarrass the natives greatly.
All their accounts were contradictory: one giving me to under-
stand that Toby would be with me in a very short time; another
that he did not know where he was; while a third, violently in-
veighing against him, assured me that he had stolen away, and
would never come back. It appeared to me, at the time, that in
making these various statements they endeavoured to conceal
from me some terrible disaster, lest the knowledge of it should
overpower me.

Fearful lest some fatal calamity had overtaken him, I sought
out young Fayaway, and endeavoured to learn from her, if
possible, the truth.

This gentle being had early attracted my regard, not only
from her extraordinary beauty, but from the attractive cast of
her countenance, singularly expressive of intelligence and
humanity. Of all the natives she alone seemed to appreciate
the effect which the peculiarity of the circumstances in which
we were placed had produced upon the minds of my companion
and myself. In addressing me—especially when I lay reclining
upon the mats suffering from pain—there was a tenderness in her
manner which it was impossible to misunderstand or resist.
Whenever she entered the house, the expression of her face
indicated the liveliest sympathy for me; and moving towards
the place where I lay, with one arm slightly elevated in a
gesture of pity, and her large glistening eyes gazing intently
into mine, she would murmur plaintively, “Awha! awha!
Tommo,” and seat herself mournfully beside me.

Her manner convinced me that she deeply compassionated my
situation, as being removed from my country and friends, and
placed beyond the reach of all relief. Indeed, at times I was
almost led to believe that her mind was swayed by gentle
impulses hardly to be anticipated from one in her condition;
that she appeared to be conscious there were ties rudely severed,
which had once bound us to our homes; that there were sisters
and brothers anxiously looking forward to our return, who were,
perhaps, never more to behold us.

[ 120 ]

In this amiable light did Fayaway appear in my eyes; and
reposing full confidence in her candour and intelligence, I now
had recourse to her, in the midst of my alarm, with regard to
my companion.

My questions evidently distressed her. She looked round
from one to another of the byestanders, as if hardly knowing
what answer to give me. At last, yielding to my importunities,
she overcame her scruples, and gave me to understand that Toby
had gone away with the boats which had visited the bay, but
had promised to return at the expiration of three days. At first
I accused him of perfidiously deserting me; but as I grew more
composed, I upbraided myself for imputing so cowardly an
action to him, and tranquillized myself with the belief that he
had availed himself of the opportunity to go round to Nukuheva,
in order to make some arrangement by which I could be removed
from the valley. At any rate, thought I, he will return with
the medicines I require, and then, as soon as I recover, there
will be no difficulty in the way of our departure.

Consoling myself with these reflections, I lay down that night
in a happier frame of mind than I had done for some time. The
next day passed without any allusion to Toby on the part of the
natives, who seemed desirous of avoiding all reference to the
subject. This raised some apprehensions in my breast; but
when night came, I congratulated myself that the second day
had now gone by, and that on the morrow Toby would again be
with me. But the morrow came and went, and my companion
did not appear. Ah! thought I, he reckons three days from the
morning of his departure,—to-morrow he will arrive. But that
weary day also closed upon me, without his return. Even yet
I would not despair; I thought that something detained him—
that he was waiting for the sailing of a boat, at Nukuheva, and
that in a day or two at farthest I should see him again. But
day after day of renewed disappointment passed by; at last hope
deserted me, and I fell a victim to despair.

Yes, thought I, gloomily, he has secured his own escape, and
cares not what calamity may befall his unfortunate comrade.
Fool that I was, to suppose that any one would willingly
encounter the perils of this valley, after having once got beyond
its limits! He has gone, and has left me to combat alone all the

[ 121 ]

dangers by which I am surrounded. Thus would I sometimes
seek to derive a desperate consolation from dwelling upon the
perfidy of Toby: whilst at other times I sunk under the bitter
remorse which I felt as having by my own imprudence brought
upon myself the fate which I was sure awaited me.

At other times I thought that perhaps after all these treacher-
ous savages have made away with him, and thence the confusion
into which they were thrown by my questions, and their contra-
dictory answers, or he might be a captive in some other part of
the valley; or, more dreadful still, might have met with that fate
at which my very soul shuddered. But all these speculations
were vain; no tidings of Toby ever reached me; he had gone
never to return.

The conduct of the islanders appeared inexplicable. All re-
ference to my lost comrade was carefully evaded, and if at any
time they were forced to make some reply to my frequent in-
quiries on the subject, they would uniformly denounce him as an
ungrateful runaway, who had deserted his friend, and taken
himself off to that vile and detestable place Nukuheva.

But whatever might have been his fate, now that he was gone,
the natives multiplied their acts of kindness and attention towards
myself, treating me with a degree of deference which could hardly
have been surpassed had I been some celestial visitant. Kory-
Kory never for one moment left my side, unless it were to exe-
cute my wishes. The faithful fellow, twice every day, in the
cool of the morning and in the evening, insisted upon carrying
me to the stream, and bathing me in its refreshing water.

Frequently in the afternoon he would carry me to a particular
part of the stream, where the beauty of the scene produced a
soothing influence upon my mind. At this place the waters
flowed between grassy banks, planted with enormous bread-fruit
trees, whose vast branches interlacing overhead, formed a leafy
canopy; near the stream were several smooth black rocks. One
of these, projecting several feet above the surface of the water,
had upon its summit a shallow cavity, which, filled with freshly-
gathered leaves, formed a delightful couch.

Here I often lay for hours, covered with a gauze-like veil of
tappa, while Fayaway, seated beside me, and holding in her hand
a fan woven from the leaflets of a young cocoa-nut bough, brushed

[ 122 ]

aside the insects that occasionally lighted on my face, and Kory-
Kory, with a view of chasing away my melancholy, performed a
thousand antics in the water before us.

As my eye wandered along this romantic stream, it would fall
upon the half-immersed figure of a beautiful girl, standing in the
transparent water, and catching in a little net a species of dimi-
nutive shell-fish, of which these people are extravagantly fond.
Sometimes a chattering group would be seated upon the edge of
a low rock in the midst of the brook, busily engaged in thinning
and polishing the shells of cocoa-nuts, by rubbing them briskly
with a small stone in the water, an operation which soon con-
verts them into a light and elegant drinking vessel, somewhat
resembling goblets made of tortoiseshell.

But the tranquillizing influences of beautiful scenery, and the
exhibition of human life under so novel and charming an aspect,
were not my only sources of consolation.

Every evening the girls of the house gathered about me on the
mats, and after chasing away Kory-Kory from my side—who,
nevertheless, retired only to a little distance and watched their
proceedings with the most jealous attention—would anoint my
whole body with a fragrant oil, squeezed from a yellow root,
previously pounded between a couple of stones, and which in
their language is denominated “aka.” And most refreshing and
agreeable are the juices of the “aka,” when applied to one’s
limbs by the soft palms of sweet nymphs, whose bright eyes are
beaming upon you with kindness; and I used to hail with de-
light the daily recurrence of this luxurious operation, in which I
forgot all my troubles, and buried for the time every feeling of
sorrow.

Sometimes in the cool of the evening my devoted servitor
would lead me out upon the pi-pi in front of the house, and seat-
ing me near its edge, protect my body from the annoyances of
the insects which occasionally hovered in the air, by wrapping me
round with a large roll of tappa. He then bustled about, and
employed himself at least twenty minutes in adjusting everything
to secure my personal comfort.

Having perfected his arrangements, he would get my pipe,
and, lighting it, would hand it to me. Often he was obliged to
strike a light for the occasion, and as the mode he adopted was

[ 123 ]

entirely different from what I had ever seen or heard of before,
I will describe it.

A straight, dry, and partly decayed stick of the Habiscus, about
six feet in length, and half as many inches in diameter, with a
smaller bit of wood not more than a foot long, and scarcely an
inch wide, is as invariably to be met with in every house in
Typee as a box of lucifer matches in the corner of a kitchen cup-
board at home.

The islander, placing the larger stick obliquely against some
object, with one end elevated at an angle of forty-five degrees,
mounts astride of it like an urchin about to gallop off upon a
cane, and then grasping the smaller one firmly in both hands, he
rubs its pointed end slowly up and down the extent of a few
inches on the principal stick, until at last he makes a narrow
groove in the wood, with an abrupt termination at the point
furthest from him, where all the dusty particles which the friction
creates are accumulated in a little heap.

At first Kory-Kory goes to work quite leisurely, but gradually
quickens his pace, and waxing warm in the employment, drives
the stick furiously along the smoking channel, plying his hands
to and fro with amazing rapidity, the perspiration starting from
every pore. As he approaches the climax of his effort, he pants
and grasps for breath, and his eyes almost start from their sockets
with the violence of his exertions. This is the critical stage of
the operation; all his previous labours are vain if he cannot sus-
tain the rapidity of the movement until the reluctant spark is
produced. Suddenly he stops, becomes perfectly motionless.
His hands still retain their hold of the smaller stick, which is
pressed convulsively against the further end of the channel
among the fine powder there accumulated, as if he had just
pierced through and through some little viper that was wriggling
and struggling to escape from his clutches. The next moment a
delicate wreath of smoke curls spirally into the air, the heap of
dusty particles glows with fire, and Kory-Kory almost breathless,
dismounts from his steed.

This operation appeared to me to be the most laborious species
of work performed in Typee; and had I possessed a sufficient
intimacy with the language to have conveyed my ideas upon the
subject, I should certainly have suggested to the most influential

[ 124 ]

of the natives the expediency of establishing a college of vestals
to be centrally located in the valley, for the purpose of keeping
alive the indispensable article of fire; so as to supersede the ne-
cessity of such a vast outlay of strength and good temper, as
were usually squandered on these occasions. There might, how-
ever, be special difficulties in carrying this plan into execution.

What a striking evidence does this operation furnish of the
wide difference between the extreme of savage and civilized life.
A gentleman of Typee can bring up a numerous family of chil-
dren and give them all a highly respectable cannibal education,
with infinitely less toil and anxiety than he expends in the simple
process of striking a light; whilst a poor European artisan, who
through the instrumentality of a lucifer performs the same ope-
ration in one second, is put to his wit’s end to provide for his
starving offspring that food which the children of a Polynesian
father, without troubling their parent, pluck from the branches
of every tree around them.

[ 125 ]

CHAPTER XV.

Kindness of Marheyo and the rest of the Islanders—A full Description of the
Bread-fruit Tree—Different Modes of preparing the Fruit.

All the inhabitants of the valley treated me with great kind-
ness; but as to the household of Marheyo, with whom I was now
permanently domiciled, nothing could surpass their efforts to
minister to my comfort. To the gratification of my palate they
paid the most unwearied attention. They continually invited
me to partake of food, and when after eating heartily I declined
the viands they continued to offer me, they seemed to think that
my appetite stood in need of some piquant stimulant to excite its
activity.

In pursuance of this idea, old Marheyo himself would hie him
away to the sea-shore by the break of day, for the purpose of
collecting various species of rare sea-weed; some of which
among these people are considered a great luxury. After a
whole day spent in this employment, he would return about
nightfall with several cocoa-nut shells filled with different de-
scriptions of kemp. In preparing these for use he manifested all
the ostentation of a professed cook, although the chief mystery
of the affair appeared to consist in pouring water in judicious
quantities upon the slimy contents of his cocoa-nut shells.

The first time he submitted one of these saline salads to my
critical attention I naturally thought that anything collected at
such pains must possess peculiar merits; but one mouthful was a
complete dose; and great was the consternation of the old war-
rior at the rapidity with which I ejected his Epicurean treat.

How true it is, that the rarity of any particular article en-
hances its value amazingly. In some part of the valley—I know
not where, but probably in the neighbourhood of the sea—the
girls were sometimes in the habit of procuring small quantities of
salt, a thimble-full or so being the result of the united labours

[ 126 ]

of a party of five or six employed for the greater part of the
day. This precious commodity they brought to the house, en-
veloped in multitudinous folds of leaves; and as a special mark
of the esteem in which they held me, would spread an immense
leaf on the ground, and dropping one by one a few minute par-
ticles of the salt upon it, invite me to taste them.

From the extravagant value placed upon the article, I verily
believe, that with a bushel of common Liverpool salt all the real
estate in Typee might have been purchased. With a small pinch
of it in one hand, and a quarter section of a bread-fruit in the
other, the greatest chief in the valley would have laughed at all
the luxuries of a Parisian table.

The celebrity of the bread-fruit tree, and the conspicuous place
it occupies in a Typee bill of fare, induces me to give at some
length a general description of the tree, and the various modes in
which the fruit is prepared.

The bread-fruit tree, in its glorious prime, is a grand and
towering object, forming the same feature in a Marquesan land-
scape that the patriarchal elm does in New England scenery.
The latter tree it not a little resembles in height, in the wide
spread of its stalwart branches, and in its venerable and imposing
aspect.

The leaves of the bread-fruit are of great size, and their edges
are cut and scolloped as fantastically as those of a lady’s lace
collar. As they annually tend towards decay, they almost rival in
the brilliant variety of their gradually changing hues the fleeting
shades of the expiring dolphin. The autumnal tints of our
American forests, glorious as they are, sink into nothing in com-
parison with this tree.

The leaf, in one particular stage, when nearly all the prismatic
colours are blended on its surface, is often converted by the
natives into a superb and striking head-dress. The principal
fibre traversing its length being split open a convenient distance,
and the elastic sides of the aperture pressed apart, the head is
inserted between them, the leaf drooping on one side, with its
forward half turned jauntily up on the brows, and the remaining
part spreading laterally behind the ears.

The fruit somewhat resembles in magnitude and general ap-
pearance one of our citron melons of ordinary size; but, unlike

[ 127 ]

the citron, it has no sectional lines drawn along the outside. Its
surface is dotted all over with little conical prominences, looking
not unlike the knobs on an antiquated church door. The rind
is perhaps an eighth of an inch in thickness; and denuded of this,
at the time when it is in the greatest perfection, the fruit pre-
sents a beautiful globe of white pulp, the whole of which may be
eaten, with the exception of a slender core, which is easily
removed.

The bread-fruit, however, is never used, and is indeed alto-
gether unfit to be eaten, until submitted in one form or other to
the action of fire.

The most simple manner in which this operation is performed,
and I think, the best, consists in placing any number of the freshly
plucked fruit, when in a particular stage of greenness, among the
embers of a fire, in the same way that you would roast a potato.
After the lapse of ten or fifteen minutes, the green rind embrowns
and cracks, showing through the fissures in its sides the milk-
white interior. As soon as it cools, the rind drops off, and you
then have the soft round pulp in its purest and most delicious
state. Thus eaten, it has a mild and pleasing flavour.

Sometimes, after having been roasted in the fire, the natives
snatch it briskly from the embers, and permitting it to slip out of
the yielding rind into a vessel of cold water, stir up the mixture,
which they call “bo-a-sho.” I never could endure this com-
pound, and indeed the preparation is not greatly in vogue among
the more polite Typees.

There is one form, however, in which the fruit is occasionally
served, that renders it a dish fit for a king. As soon as it is taken
from the fire the exterior is removed, the core extracted, and the
remaining part is placed in a sort of shallow stone mortar, and
briskly worked with a pestle of the same substance. While one
person is performing this operation, another takes a ripe cocoa-
nut, and breaking it in half, which they also do very cleverly,
proceeds to grate the juicy meat into fine particles. This is
done by means of a piece of mother-of-pearl shell, lashed firmly
to the extreme end of a heavy stick, with its straight side
accurately notched like a saw. The stick is sometimes a gro-
tesquely-formed limb of a tree, with three or four branches
twisting from its body like so many shapeless legs, and sustaining
it two or three feet from the ground.

[ 128 ]

The native, first placing a calabash beneath the nose, as it
were, of his curious-looking log-steed, for the purpose of re-
ceiving the grated fragments as they fall, mounts astride of it as
if it were a hobby-horse, and twirling the inside of one of his
hemispheres of cocoa-nut around the sharp teeth of the mother-
of-pearl shell, the pure white meat falls in snowy showers into
the receptacle provided. Having obtained a quantity sufficient
for his purpose, he places it in a bag made of the net-like fibrous
substance attached to all cocoa-nut trees, and compressing it
over the bread-fruit, which being now sufficiently pounded, is put
into a wooden bowl—extracts a thick creamy milk. The delicious
liquid soon bubbles round the fruit, and leaves it at last just
peeping above its surface.

This preparation is called “kokoo,” and a most luscious pre-
paration it is. The hobby-horse and the pestle and mortar were
in great requisition during the time I remained in the house of
Marheyo, and Kory-Kory had frequent occasion to show his skill
in their use.

But the great staple articles of food into which the bread-fruit
is converted by these natives are known respectively by the
names of Amar and Poee-Poee.

At certain seasons of the year, when the fruit of the hundred
groves of the valley has reached its maturity, and hangs in
golden spheres from every branch, the islanders assemble in
harvest groups, and garner in the abundance which surrounds
them. The trees are stripped of their nodding burdens, which,
easily freed from the rind and core, are gathered together in
capacious wooden vessels, where the pulpy fruit is soon worked
by a stone pestle, vigorously applied, into a blended mass of a
doughy consistency, called by the natives “Tutao.” This is
then divided into separate parcels, which, after being made up
into stout packages, enveloped in successive folds of leaves, and
bound round with thongs of bark, are stored away in large re-
ceptacles hollowed in the earth, from whence they are drawn as
occasion may require.

In this condition the Tutao sometimes remains for years, and
even is thought to improve by age. Before it is fit to be eaten,
however, it has to undergo an additional process. A primitive
oven is scooped in the ground, and its bottom being loosely

[ 129 ]

covered with stones, a large fire is kindled within it. As soon
as the requisite degree of heat is attained, the embers are re-
moved, and the surface of the stones being covered with thick
layers of leaves, one of the larger packages of Tutao is deposited
upon them, and overspread with another layer of leaves. The
whole is then quickly heaped up with earth, and forms a sloping
mound.

The Tutao thus baked is called “Amar;” the action of the
oven having converted it into an amber-coloured caky substance,
a little tart, but not at all disagreeable to the taste.

By another and final process the “Amar” is changed into
“Poee-Poee.” This transition is rapidly effected. The amar
is placed in a vessel, and mixed with water until it gains a proper
pudding-like consistency, when, without further preparation, it is
in readiness for use. This is the form in which the “Tutao” is
generally consumed. The singular mode of eating it I have
already described.

Were it not that the bread-fruit is thus capable of being pre-
served for a length of time, the natives might be reduced to a
state of starvation; for owing to some unknown cause the trees
sometimes fail to bear fruit; and on such occasions the islanders
chiefly depend upon the supplies they have been enabled to store
away.

This stately tree, which is rarely met with upon the Sandwich
Islands, and then only of a very inferior quality, and at Tahiti
does not abound to a degree that renders its fruit the principal
article of food, attains its greatest excellence in the genial
climate of the Marquesan group, where it grows to an enormous
magnitude, and flourishes in the utmost abundance.

[ 130 ]

CHAPTER XVI.

Melancholy condition—Occurrence at the Ti—Anecdote of Marheyo—
Shaving the Head of a Warrior.

In looking back to this period, and calling to remembrance the
numberless proofs of kindness and respect which I received from
the natives of the valley, I can scarcely understand how it was
that, in the midst of so many consolatory circumstances, my mind
should still have been consumed by the most dismal forebodings,
and have remained a prey to the profoundest melancholy. It is
true that the suspicious circumstances which had attended the
disappearance of Toby were enough of themselves to excite dis-
trust with regard to the savages, in whose power I felt myself to
be entirely placed, especially when it was combined with the
knowledge that these very men, kind and respectful as they were
to me, were, after all, nothing better than a set of cannibals.

But my chief source of anxiety, and that which poisoned every
temporary enjoyment, was the mysterious disease in my leg, which
still remained unabated. All the herbal applications of Tinor,
united with the severer discipline of the old leech, and the affec-
tionate nursing of Kory-Kory, had failed to relieve me. I was
almost a cripple, and the pain I endured at intervals was agoniz-
ing. The unaccountable malady showed no signs of amendment;
on the contrary, its violence increased day by day, and threatened
the most fatal results, unless some powerful means were employed
to counteract it. It seemed as if I were destined to sink under
this grievous affliction, or at least that it would hinder me from
availing myself of any opportunity of escaping from the valley.

An incident which occurred as nearly as I can estimate about
three weeks after the disappearance of Toby, convinced me that
the natives, from some reason or other, would interpose every
possible obstacle to my leaving them.

One morning there was no little excitement evinced by the

[ 131 ]

people near my abode, and which I soon discovered proceeded
from a vague report that boats had been seen at a great distance
approaching the bay. Immediately all was bustle and anima-
tion. It so happened that day that the pain I suffered having
somewhat abated, and feeling in much better spirits than usual,
I had complied with Kory-Kory’s invitation to visit the chief
Mehevi at the place called the “Ti,” which I have before
described as being situated within the precincts of the Taboo
Groves. These sacred recesses were at no great distance from
Marheyo’s habitation, and lay between it and the sea; the path
that conducted to the beach passing directly in front of the Ti,
and thence skirting along the border of the groves.

I was reposing upon the mats, within the sacred building, in
company with Mehevi and several other chiefs, when the an-
nouncement was first made. It sent a thrill of joy through my
whole frame;—perhaps Toby was about to return. I rose at
once to my feet, and my instinctive impulse was to hurry down to
the beach, equally regardless of the distance that separated me
from it, and of my disabled condition. As soon as Mehevi
noticed the effect the intelligence had produced upon me, and
the impatience I betrayed to reach the sea, his countenance
assumed that inflexible rigidity of expression which had so awed
me on the afternoon of our arrival at the house of Marheyo. As
I was proceeding to leave the Ti, he laid his hand upon my
shoulder, and said gravely, “abo, abo” (wait, wait). Solely
intent upon the one thought that occupied my mind, and heed-
less of his request, I was brushing past him, when suddenly he
assumed a tone of authority, and told me to “moee” (sit down).
Though struck by the alteration in his demeanor, the excitement
under which I laboured was too strong to permit me to obey the
unexpected command, and I was still limping towards the edge
of the pi-pi with Kory-Kory clinging to one arm in his efforts to
restrain me, when the natives around starting to their feet,
ranged themselves along the open front of the building, while
Mehevi looked at me scowlingly, and reiterated his commands still
more sternly.

It was at this moment, when fifty savage countenances were
glaring

CHAPTER I.
The Sea—Longings for Shore—A Land-sick Ship—Destination of the Voyagers—The Marquesas—Adventure of a Missionary’s Wife among the Savages—Characteristic Anecdote of the Queen of Nukuheva	[ Page 1 ]
CHAPTER II.
Passage from the Cruising Ground to the Marquesas—Sleepy times aboard Ship—South Sea Scenery—Land ho!—The French Squadron discovered at Anchor in the Bay of Nukuheva—Strange Pilot—Escort of Canoes—A Flotilla of Cocoa-nuts—Swimming Visitors—The Dolly boarded by them —State of affairs that ensue	[ 8 ]
CHAPTER III.
Some Account of the late operations of the French at the Marquesas— Prudent Conduct of the Admiral—Sensation produced by the Arrival of the Strangers—The first Horse seen by the Islanders—Reflections— Miserable Subterfuge of the French—Digression concerning Tahiti— Seizure of the Island by the Admiral—Spirited Conduct of an English Lady	[ 16 ]
CHAPTER IV.
State of Affairs aboard the Ship—Contents of her Larder—Length of South Seamen’s Voyages—Account of a Flying Whaleman—Determination to Leave the Vessel—The Bay of Nukuheva—The Typees—Invasion of their Valley by Porter—Reflections—Glen of Tior—Interview between the old King and the French Admiral	[ 20 ]
[ xii ]
CHAPTER V.
Thoughts previous to attempting an Escape—Toby, a Fellow Sailor, agrees to share the Adventure—Last Night aboard the Ship	[ 31 ]
CHAPTER VI.
A Specimen of Nautical Oratory—Criticisms of the Sailors—The Starboard Watch are given a Holiday—The Escape to the Mountains	[ 36 ]
CHAPTER VII.
The other side of the Mountain—Disappointment—Inventory of Articles brought from the Ship—Division of the Stock of Bread—Appearance of the Interior of the Island—A Discovery—A Ravine and Waterfalls—A sleepless Night—Further Discoveries—My Illness—A Marquesan Land- scape	[ 44 ]
CHAPTER VIII.
The Important Question, Typee or Happar?—A Wild-Goose Chace—My Sufferings—Disheartening Situation—A Night in a Ravine—Morning Meal—Happy Idea of Toby—Journey towards the Valley	[ 54 ]
CHAPTER IX.
Perilous Passage of the Ravine—Descent into the Valley	[ 63 ]
CHAPTER X.
The Head of the Valley—Cautious Advance—A Path—Fruit—Discovery of Two of the Natives—Their singular Conduct—Approach towards the inhabited parts of the Vale—Sensation produced by our Appearance— Reception at the House of one of the Natives	[ 72 ]
CHAPTER XI.
Midnight Reflections — Morning Visitors — A Warrior in Costume—A Savage Æsculapius—Practice of the Healing Art—Body Servant—A Dwelling-house of the Valley described—Portraits of its Inmates	[ 83 ]
[ xiii ]
CHAPTER XII.
Officiousness of Kory-Kory—His Devotion—A Bath in the Stream—Want of Refinement of the Typee Damsels—Stroll with Mehevi—A Typee Highway—The Taboo Groves—The Hoolah-Hoolah Ground—The Ti —Time-worn Savages—Hospitality of Mehevi—Midnight Misgivings— Adventure in the Dark—Distinguished Honours paid to the Visitors— Strange Procession and Return to the House of Marheyo	[ 97 ]
CHAPTER XIII.
Attempt to procure Relief from Nukuheva—Perilous Adventure of Toby in the Happar Mountain—Eloquence of Kory-Kory	[ 107 ]
CHAPTER XIV.
A great Event happens in the Valley—The Island Telegraph—Something befalls Toby—Fayaway displays a tender Heart—Melancholy Reflections— Mysterious Conduct of the Islanders—Devotion of Kory-Kory—A rural Couch—A Luxury—Kory-Kory strikes a Light à la Typee	[ 115 ]
CHAPTER XV.
Kindness of Marheyo and the rest of the Islanders—A full Description of the Bread-fruit Tree—Different Modes of preparing the Fruit	[ 125 ]
CHAPTER XVI.
Melancholy condition—Occurrence at the Ti—Anecdote of Marheyo— Shaving the Head of a Warrior	[ 130 ]
CHAPTER XVII.
Improvement in Health and Spirits—Felicity of the Typees—Their enjoy- ments compared with those of more enlightened Communities—Compara- tive Wickedness of civilized and unenlightened People—A Skirmish in the Mountain with the Warriors of Happar	[ 136 ]
[ xiv ]
CHAPTER XVIII.
Swimming in company with the Girls of the Valley—A Canoe—Effects of the Taboo—A pleasure Excursion on the Pond—Beautiful freak of Fayaway—Mantua-making—A Stranger arrives in the Valley—His mys- terious conduct—Native Oratory—The Interview—Its Results—Departure of the Stranger	[ 145 ]
CHAPTER XIX.
Reflections after Marnoo’s Departure—Battle of the Pop-guns—Strange con- ceit of Marheyo—Process of making Tappa	[ 159 ]
CHAPTER XX.
History of a day as usually spent in the Typee Valley—Dances of the Mar- quesan Girls	[ 166 ]
CHAPTER XXI.
The Spring of Arva Wai—Remarkable Monumental Remains—Some ideas with regard to the History of the Pi-Pis found in the Valley	[ 171 ]
CHAPTER XXII.
Preparations for a Grand Festival in the Valley—Strange doings in the Taboo Groves—Monument of Calabashes—Gala costume of the Typee damsels—Departure for the Festival	[ 175 ]
CHAPTER XXIII.
The Feast of Calabashes	[ 181 ]
CHAPTER XXIV.
Ideas suggested by the Feast of Calabashes—Inaccuracy of certain published Accounts of the Islands—A Reason—Neglected State of Heathenism in the Valley—Effigy of a dead Warrior—A singular Superstition—The Priest Kolory and the God Moa Artua—Amazing Religious Observance— A dilapidated Shrine—Kory-Kory and the Idol—An Inference	[ 188 ]
[ xv ]
CHAPTER XXV.
General Information gathered at the Festival—Personal Beauty of the Typees—Their Superiority over the Inhabitants of the other Islands— Diversity of Complexion—A Vegetable Cosmetic and Ointment—Testi- mony of Voyagers to the uncommon Beauty of the Marquesas—Few Evidences of Intercourse with Civilized Beings—Dilapidated Musket— Primitive Simplicity of Government—Regal Dignity of Mehevi	[ 200 ]
CHAPTER XXVI.
King Mehevi—Allusion to his Hawiian Majesty—Conduct of Marheyo and Mehevi in certain delicate matters—Peculiar system of Marriage— Number of Population—Uniformity—Embalming—Places of Sepulchre— Funeral obsequies at Nukuheva—Number of Inhabitants in Typee— Location of the Dwellings—Happiness enjoyed in the Valley—A Warning —Some ideas with regard to the Civilization of the Islands—Reference to the Present state of the Hawiians—Story of a Missionary’s Wife—Fashion- able Equipages at Oahu—Reflections	[ 209 ]
CHAPTER XXVII.
The Social Condition and General Character of the Typees	[ 222 ]
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Fishing Parties—Mode of distributing the Fish—Midnight Banquet—Time- keeping Tapers—Unceremonious style of eating the Fish	[ 229 ]
CHAPTER XXIX.
Natural History of the Valley—Golden Lizards—Tameness of the Birds— Mosquitos—Flies—Dogs—A solitary Cat—The Climate—The Cocoa-nut Tree—Singular modes of climbing it—An agile young Chief—Fearlessness of the Children—Too-Too and the Cocoa-nut Tree—The Birds of the Valley	[ 233 ]
CHAPTER XXX.
A Professor of the Fine Arts—His Persecutions—Something about Tattooing and Tabooing—Two Anecdotes in illustration of the latter—A few thoughts on the Typee Dialect	[ 240 ]
[ xvi ]
CHAPTER XXXI.
Strange custom of the Islanders—Their Chanting, and the peculiarity of their Voice—Rapture of the King at first hearing a Song—A new Dignity conferred on the Author—Musical Instruments in the Valley—Admiration of the Savages at beholding a Pugilistic Performance—Swimming Infant— Beautiful Tresses of the Girls—Ointment for the Hair	[ 249 ]
CHAPTER XXXII.
Apprehensions of Evil—Frightful Discovery—Some remarks on Cannibalism —Second Battle with the Happars—Savage Spectacle—Mysterious Feast— Subsequent Disclosures	[ 254 ]
CHAPTER XXXIII.
The Stranger again arrives in the Valley—Singular Interview with him— Attempt to Escape—Failure—Melancholy Situation—Sympathy of Mar- heyo	[ 264 ]
CHAPTER XXXIV.
The Escape	[ 269 ]
APPENDIX.
Provisional cession to Lord George Paulet of the Sandwich Islands	[ 279 ]

Typee First British Edition