I do not know that I have anything to add to the instructions given you and Mr. Beadle verbally while I was with you last week, but as a little guard against possible misunderstandings or omission I will here give you such memoranda as, in a review of the somewhat complicated matters which you will now have in hand, occur to me as desirable. I wish you would be very cautious not to advance any matters with regard to which I have not given you special finishing instructions, without communicating with me. As a general rule, I may say in particular, it is very objectionable to do anything which distantly resembles finished work, until the time comes for absolute and complete finish on a large scale. Work should everywhere be advanced if possible in stages and, unless for very unusual reasons, such as apply at this time to a limited extent of ground immediately adjoining the second and third bridges, the more obviously work stands in an unquestionably raw and preparatory stage, one thing out of joint with another, until the time comes for final finishing operations altogether, the better will be the impression, and the less it will invite adverse criticism. Therefore, the more you can train your foremen and laborers to leave the ground that is not to be at once finally completed and finished as far as possible, in a raw, rough and obviously incomplete state, the better.

1st, The purpose of the greater part of the planting that has just been done between the quarry and the first ledge above the first pools has been that of establishing masses and groups of plants in suitable relation one to another. In all this planting, a little adjustment of plants along the edges of most of the patches is now required, mainly with the object of overcoming any clean and direct lines of division and to secure a soft dovetailing of one patch into those adjoining it, and where the men in rapid planting have been allowed to get plants along the edge too nearly in rows, of breaking up such rows and securing more natural outlines to the groups. I pointed out to Mr. Beadle in a number of particular cases where such adjustment is needed, and doubtless there are others.

2nd, The almost continuous Hemlock plantation above the broad-leaved Evergreens is to be made a little more irregular in its lower outline. It may be made so, first, by occasionally introducing a few more plants of Hemlock, if they can be procured, in such a way as to make the points of the Hemlock plantation more salient; also, by taking out a few of the plants which have been set, and substituting for these Red Cedars or Yellow and White Pines.

3rd, White and Yellow Pines are to be collected and planted back of the Hemlock groups. They should be procured, if possible, from open ground [318]

and should be carefully taken up and handled. About double the distance should be allowed between the plants of this upper plantation than has been given the Hemlocks. They should mingle with the upper part of the Hemlock plantation, should dovetail into it and at one or two points indicated to Mr. Beadle should break through and become conspicuous in the foreground of the view up the hills from the road.

4th. Pines and Hemlocks are to be planted, as more particularly described to you when on the ground, on both sides of the bridle path south of the second bridge, but none nearer than five feet of the rocks recently set at the junction of the bridle road with the approach road. The intermediate five feet to be planted with Yews and Junipers. (Do not plant the opposite end of the bridge, but leave everything there in a raw state)

5th. Large patches of Evergreen Canes are to be planted in the following places. (I indicated to Mr. Beadle when on the ground some of these areas more exactly than I can do now):- (a) On both sides of the main stream above the first bridge, chiefly where the growth of broad-leaved Evergreens is sparse. (b) On the flat ground on the opposite side of the road between the pool and the cart-road to the borrow-pit up the branch valley. (c) On the lower two-thirds of the high banks on the down stream side of both ends of Bridge [319]

No. 2, and among the existing shrubs on the cape between the road and the first cascade below the bridge. (d) Among the existing shrubs on the flattish ground opposite the upper end of the bridge between the main and the side streams. (e) On the steep banks on the up-stream side above Bridge No. 3, and on the low ground adjoining this bridge on the upper side, as more particularly pointed out to you when on the ground. All the above are rather large areas and the Canes should be planted closely in them as far as existing shrubs will allow. Adjoining water, let the Canes be carefully adjusted to overhang the water, the sods being so set, especially on the steep banks, that the canes will be nearly vertical to the slope of these banks, and where the ground is flat, as above Bridge No. 2, let the Canes nearest the water be set with a slope towards the water. Tall stakes may be driven into the ground under water, a foot or two from the shore and lines stretched upon these stakes horizontally, against which the sloping Canes may lean until they have become deeply rooted. In some cases, it may be better to place stones over the roots of the Canes to keep them fixed in the desired tilted position. One or two feet back from the margin the Canes may be set upright, or nearly so. All along these water lines the Canes should be as much crowded as possible so as to force one another out over the water and [320]Evergreen, Bulrushes, Irises and Flags may be planted under them in the edge of the water. Canes, especially where the roots are not close upon water, should have a rich soil. Add manure, therefore, wherever you may think it desirable to make the ground rich.

6th, Bridge No. 1 is to be enveloped with ivy and McCartney Evergreen Rose. The shelf next the water on the upper side of this bridge should in some way be made a little less formed, probably by taking out a few stones here and there in the upper part of it. You will judge what can be done prudently in this respect, the object of the shelf being to secure plants on the ledge from being washed out or torn by ice or driftwood in floods. This being done, the lower wall is to be concealed as soon and as much as possible with foliage planted above it and in the water, as Mr. Beadle was advised. The masonry of Bridge No. 2 is to be covered as soon and as much as practicable with Evergreen Honeysuckle. The Bamboo plantation may come within one or two feet of the masonry, the limit being irregular, and between the Bamboos and the walls Kalmia, Leucothoe and Andromedas may be scattered along with the Honeysuckle plants. The Ivy already planted need not be taken out. Bridge No. 3 is to be enveloped with Ivy and Euonymus radicans near the arch; elsewhere with McCartney roses and Euonymus radicans. In the space between the walls and the ford road, there may be a few scattered Rhododendrons and all the rest, planted thickly with Euonymus radicans.

7th, Most of the old trees on the slopes in sight of the drive are to be planted with ivy, Euonymus radicans, Evergreen, Bignonias and Virginia Creeper; smaller and poorer deciduous trees and bushes with Clematis. The ground at the base of the trees to be thus planted for vines should be well prepared and especially enriched, as it will have been exhausted and will be dry, and Vines generally bear and reward unusually rich feeding and deep soil better than trees and shrubs.

8th, Great care should be taken to screen roadside walls with a variety of small stuff planted at their base, including besides what has already been set, Rubus hispida, Sedums, Houseleeks, Opuntias, Ferns, Euonymus radicans and nana, and occasionally Ivy and Clematis, to fall over the wall; also, there is to be planted, as explained to Mr. Beadle, on the border between the wall and the road, Columbines, Immortelles, Golden Rod, Asters and a choice of some of the herbaceous plants that he has collected under our instructions the last year.

9th, The sodding of Galax on the side of the road is to be extended and colonies of it are to be set here and there on the brook edge. Interspersed among these sod plants, there are to be set occasionally those above named for the edge of the road adjoining the guard walls. On the waterside, there are to be added, as I have directed Mr. Beadle, Saxifrages, Mint, Callas, Irises, Ferns, Bulrushes, Mosses and several plants mentioned to him for particular localities. I am extremely anxious to make successful considerable patches of the Moss sodding which you said you could procure, wherever it can be [321]done with the best assurance of success, in sight of the road. We shall send you some coarse, high-growing, flower-bearing, herbaceous plants to be set on the hillsides where they can be barely seen among the shrubs there planted, from the road.

10th, There are several points where small mossy rocks, so laid as to appear ends of ledges deflecting the stream, are very desirable, as I have advised you. Wherever there is a rippling rapid, as just above Bridge No. 1, in the main stream, rounded boulders are desirable to be placed just under water, a few of dark color breaking the surface.

11th, Sweet Flag and Bulrushes are to be set in the bay at the lower end of the long, straight reach of the main brook above Bridge No. 1. Irises and Saxifrage on the swell between this bay and the fern-covered slope towards the bridge.

12th, Where the water falls over a flat-faced dam, looking too much like a piece of masonry, or where such a fall is seen too directly in the face of it, try the effect of blows with a sledge designed to flake off chips. In such places also, place stone just under water below the dam where the falling water will strike and rebound from it. This will make foam and sparkle, will confuse the sight and will add to the purling sound.

Yours Truly